Homesteading Forum banner

Clay soil improvement project, 50' by 50' garden

1964 Views 27 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Poultryguy
3
Howdy,

We have Bolar Clay Loam over Caliche (what Texans call old limestone). Our soil tested at 7.4 pH, and was only a few inches deep before hitting the Caliche hardpan. We needed more soil depth and lower pH. So I decided to import loam from lower on the land where it accumulates, and incorporate sulfur pastilles. I can run heavy equipment, we own a 1 ton dually pickup, and we have some money, so I hatched this plan.

First we laid down used railroad ties on the lower sides of the garden plot to prevent erosion, and staked them in place with fence posts. We get infrequent heavy rain in Texas, more on that later. I rented a 4 ton excavator and a dump trailer. The trailer can haul 8 tons but will only dump about 6.5, if it's rear-loaded. Front-loaded, only 5. (safety disclaimer: never go over 5mph or on public roads with a trailer that is not correctly balanced, which is front-loaded. A rear-heavy trailer is unstable and dangerous at any speed)

We dug out about 40 tons of good loam from a low area on the land, turning that into a little rain pond. I spread that over the garden area. Then I got three loads of granite manufactured sand from a quarry and tailgated it onto the garden. That's 15 tons, plus another couple we'd brought in previously by pickup loads.

I spread Disper-Sul 97% pastilles at 40lbs/1000 sqft, then tilled it all up down about 6-8". The pastilles take weeks to break down and only start at 70F, so I got a little sulfur powder too for top dressing. We also brought in a ton of dairy cow manure, composted.

The sand content was a bit high, and the sand not silty enough, or so I thought. Watering starter potatoes, the water runs in easily I worried that I'd put in too much sand ... until yesterday. We had 3.5" of rain in a few hours. We got some puddling, but no significant erosion. Now I'm glad I put in that much sand. The worst case scenario would be a Texas gully washer removing a bunch of our soil out into the field.

Our current project is to add organic matter. My wife is a master gardener and is working on that. She has some kugelculture going on as well as other trendy methods.

In general, the project was a success, and cost less than $1000. I would recommend it if you have heavy clay soil. The sand is a permanent partial solution. Other methods are still necessary, but you'll never have that heavy sticky clay to deal with again. We used our own soil and the labor was a family effort, reducing costs dramatically. Renting an excavator costs about $275/day out here, probably more if you're near urban blight. The dump trailer was $150/day. And you need a 1 ton pickup to haul that big an excavator. In some nanny states like CA you may need a truck driver license. Pickups can be rented too.

Following are a few pics at various stages.

Today after the big rains


Before the big rains

Just the railroad ties and a ton or so of sand so far
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 4
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Thank you thank you, now let me add that one should NEVER rent a Club Cadet tiller. Ask my aching back why....
They are TroyBilt copies, but only in appearance.
I don't recall the brand, but I once rented a tiller. I wondered at the time how a company could rent out a tool so prone to abuse. I soon learned that it was built to abuse the operator. Sort of like wrestling with a pig. Wears you out and the pig wins.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
In northern Michigan, Zone 4, a neighbor developed a vineyard. On a south facing hillside, catching much sun and shielded from the northwest winds. At the base of the hill was a mucky spot. He had hundreds of yards of this black soil dug out and spread along the hillside. This created a 2 acre pond. The pond is nicely landscaped, with a wooden deck along one side, facing the vineyard. Digging out the rich soil was a costly job, but the effort is reflected in annual harvest of grapes. The pond gives off heat at night and late in the season, protecting against a frost.

My property is red clay. About 3 feet of red clay and then 30 feet of blue/grey clay and then sandstone. The ph is very low. Clay is a thousand times more fine than sand. So, you can't really change it with a few yards of sand. Compost and lime will increase the yields, but does little to change the structure of the soil. However, unlike sandy soil, the nutrients you add, tend to stay with the soil. Moisture retention is superior, too.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I mentioned on another site that I was going to mix sand to some clay soil. someone said, don't do it. that is the formula for bricks.. so I didn't do it..
I did compost, compost, compost and am still doing compost.. it gradually comes around..
my clay does not sound like the michigan clay.
I had that slimy clay in Pine City , Minn.
I borrowed a tractor to plow the garden. it was just barely wet. the tires did spin and the tractor got stuck.
I just left it there until things dried up.. and dry up it did. it turned to concrete.. I was afraid I was going to pull the tread off of those tires when I tried to get loose. I rocked back and forth several times until the clay broke up and I was free.. that garden was a disaster..
I mentioned on another site that I was going to mix sand to some clay soil. someone said, don't do it. that is the formula for bricks.. so I didn't do it..
SNIP
You have been misinformed by the internet. The core materials used for producing bricks are indeed sand, fly ash and lime. But these materials then go through a chemical process where they are molded under heat and pressure. I doubt you'll do that to your soil.

Sand helps break up clay and is useful in conjunction with organic matter. The more fine the sand, the better.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Hopefully this example will show everyone the futility of actually changing the texture of a clay soil to a coarser texture soil.

Let say you have a volume of clay soil that is 50# clay (50%), 30# silt (30%), and 20# sand (20%), 100# total.

To change the clay soil to a sandy loam soil, one would have to add 150# sand to the 100# of clay soil which is a 150% increase in volume (weight).

If you could homogeneously mix the two ingredients, the new soil (sandy loam) would be 50# clay (20%), 30# silt (12%), and 170# sand (68%), 270# total.

Line Triangle Triangle Diagram Slope
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I trucked in 40 tons of clay loam and 15 tons of granite sand (rototilled it together with sulfur pellets). With your calculations is that 55 tons of sandy clay loam? If we had a river quarry within an hour I woulda gone there. But 'round these parts it's granite or limestone, period.

I know we still need a lot more organic matter. Wife has started lasagna piles already.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Our soil was clay and shale rock. The previous owner scraped off what little top soil there was. It is now 10 years later and it is gorgeous black dirt. We hauled in tons and tons of leaf mulch and wood chips. For the most part we let the wood chips rot and used them as mulch otherwise. We tilled twice to mix the chips with the clay. After that we have been no til and now top our soil with dirt from our corral where the cows wait to be milked. We pile wood chips there and they break it down in a matter of weeks. We pour it on the beds in the winter and let it finish breaking down under tarps.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
In addition to this, you should find crops that can grow in alkaline soils and plant. Over time that portion will decline in acidity as you incorporate organic matters.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top