Boxes in, Next step

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by Jena, Feb 1, 2005.

  1. Jena

    Jena Well-Known Member

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    Aug 13, 2003
    I got all the boxes put in. Used self-drilling screws and it was a piece of cake.

    I spent last night playing with colored pencils figuring out how to wire everything. I just love that book. Great wiring diagrams. I got my lights so I switch them on from either end of the barn. Got separate switches on one circuit for some different lights.

    I have some plugs overhead so the brooder light cords are out of the way. I got it so I can turn those off and on with a switch, but the other outlets stay hot all the time. I put the switches in an out of the way place so no one accidently shuts them off walking out the door. That will save me so many headaches! Last year I had to get a ladder into the middle of 500 hungry birds to pull the plugs (they were rigged up on extension cords in the rafters last year).

    As far as I can tell, I got it all diagramed out so it should all work. I guess the proof is in the flipping of the switch :)

    I ended up with 3 20 amp circuits and 2 15 amp ones. The well goes on a 240 30 amp. I could have had less 20 amp circuits, but I prefer to have the lights on more circuits to protect against them all going out at once.

    I want to add some more stuff, but it isn't a priority right now, so I'll leave room in the box for later. Chicks will be here the 21st, so I got to get this part done by then. I work really slow because I don't know what I'm doing and my injured hand still slows me up badly. I have to stop and warm it up all the time.

    My last question about boxes....it says that metal boxes should each be grounded. My husband says I don't really need to do this and he wouldn't bother. If I do ground them, can I just pigtail the ground wire to the same place the screw goes in to hold the outlet, switch, whatever in the box? Or should I loosen one of the screws holding the box to the wall and put it there? There is no grounding nut thing in the boxes themselves. Would you bother??? Remember code doesn't matter, but safety does.

    Thanks
    Jena
     
  2. daeve

    daeve Well-Known Member

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    Jan 24, 2003
    Location:
    East Central Alabama
    If you connect the ground wire to the green grounding screw on the outlets and switches, when you install them into the box the metal tabs that they mount with will ground the box.

    HTH
     

  3. Steve in Ohio

    Steve in Ohio Well-Known Member

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    May 10, 2002
    Barn wiring barn wiring 2 barn wiring 3
    These photo's are of my barn,but all the one's I do on the side for other folks are done the same.I do about 10 or so a year,and yes I'm very anal about using EMT instead of just pulling "Romex" or using PVC...................
    '
     
  4. Cosmic

    Cosmic Well-Known Member

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    Jan 19, 2005
    Location:
    Ohio
    It really doesn't matter which method you use, if everything is properly installed, electrically it is the same ground level in service. I like the method of using the screw that holds the box to the wall for some devices, (back it off a tad, wrap the ground wire around a couple turns, tighten screw, clip ground wire neat) gets the ground wire sort of flat and out of the way. Helpful if space is tight inside the box. In other applications using the grounding screw on the switch / device (the green one) is better. Which ever works best. Using the green grounding screw is probably preferred from a purest point of view, if it is available. Usually means you have to pigtail up more than one ground wire in some cases and only hook a single wire to the screw.

    Whatever, you should have a fully operational ground wire in each circuit / box.

    I don't like using the screw that holds the switch / device in the box. Too easy to have it mucked up in some manner.
     
  5. aaatraker

    aaatraker Well-Known Member

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    Jul 26, 2004
    sounds like your having a good time doing this yourself, i'm glad the book helps. i always feel better grounding the boxes with a wire, in fact i always do. there should be a threaded hole in the metal box for a ground connection, if not you can drill and tap a #10 threaded hole, if this is not possible use a seperate self taping screw for the ground, make a 6" green wire pigtail to the box then one to the outlet ground screw, then connect these two to the ground wire coming into the box with a wire nut. this way if the box loosens over time you still have a ground. putting it to the screw holding the box does not always give a tight connection, putting it under the screw that holds the outlet is just a bad idea and makes for a poor installation , you have gone to the trouble to do a good job don't get sloppy when your almost done.
    Look in the book i'm sure they show how to do this.
    kurt
     
  6. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    Location:
    east ont canada
    to lessen a chance of shock i would go with togle switch plates on switchs and make sure to leave lots of wire at the box so the switch installs outside the box and tie ground wires in the switch box together ground to the plug works to linkground to box. one other thing too do is label the box with the circuits. in indelable ink label in large numbers label the circuit that controls that outlet and switch. ie.no.1 breaker controls all switchs and outlets labeled 1 no. 2breaker all labeled 2 . helps find the bad circuit fast. don't use "brooder lamp"as a label in the box as some time down the road it may not be a brooder lamp it's running.other thing to do once in a while is exersize the breakers to make sure they are not fused. now that youv'e exibited an aptitude you will have all kinds of people offer you some to do!make sure any disconected wire is not able to be rehooked up and all dead end cicuits disconected.