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Human Being!
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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best way to build a drive? I am planning on using culvert pipe (actually 3) across the low part due to water run off. Of course backfilling with clean fill and then finishing with crush and run gravel.
If there are better ideas let me know.

DW wants a wooden bridge about 3 feet off the ground to cross low area. I figured out after I do the above I will build her a sturdy bridge (sturdy base means sturdy bridge) :goodjob: .
 

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We have a culvert pipe at the end of our driveway. They put rocks/fill around it (not opening), then actually put a little cement on it so rocks would stay in place. Driveway - gravel, then crush and run. Part that had been recently excavated (i.e. muddy and soft), they put bigger rocks, then crush and run and it's really held up very well.
 

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Remove topsoil - be sure to remove it beyond the edge of the drive for drainage
Till cement into the top 4-6" of subsoil (stabilizes the base)
Compress the base - there should be a slight crown to it for drainage
Backfill to original grade with crushed concrete (4-6" size) with a slight crown in the middle
Add 4-6" of crushed #2 gravel crowned in the middle

Or have a paving company build an asphalt one...
 

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Do everything Bill said.

If you are putting three culvert pipes end to end then OK. If you are putting three culvert pipes side by side then NOT OK. Use two larger pipes. Place secondary pipe higher than than the primary pipe, especially if there is a stream of water running thru the low area. The bottom of the second pipe should be just above the normal flow line of the primary pipe. This causes the water to flow only in the primary pipe MOST of the time keeping sediment from forming in the pipe. The secondary pipe is only used during the Spring flow. Make sure any pipes install have a fall in the direct you want the water to flow.

You need to make sure you compact well around the entrance to the pipe (or better yet put the concrete wall and apron at them.) or the water will slow find a path around the outside of the pipes which will wash out the pipes and driveway. That's why professional culverts have either the concrete headwall or a metal flare opening.
 

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I got a unplesant surprise when I went to install a culvert here in tennessee. I thought I could just go put one in. NOT. The road infront of my house was considerded property of Tennessee state highway dept. I had to buy a 30 foot steel culvert or I couldn't install one. Instead of costing less than 100.00 it cost over 330.00. Oh and the state installed it. But hairy woop. Yah, TN just keeps doing me right. Right up my.................................
 

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shadowwalker said:
I got a unplesant surprise when I went to install a culvert here in tennessee. I thought I could just go put one in. NOT. The road infront of my house was considerded property of Tennessee state highway dept. I had to buy a 30 foot steel culvert or I couldn't install one. Instead of costing less than 100.00 it cost over 330.00. Oh and the state installed it. But hairy woop. Yah, TN just keeps doing me right. Right up my.................................
That is true here also if it is a county or state road. They set all requirements on how it is built. All you get to do is pay for it. LOL

Bob
 

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Human Being!
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Discussion Starter #7
FreeRanger said:
Do everything Bill said.

If you are putting three culvert pipes end to end then OK. If you are putting three culvert pipes side by side then NOT OK. Use two larger pipes. Place secondary pipe higher than than the primary pipe, especially if there is a stream of water running thru the low area. The bottom of the second pipe should be just above the normal flow line of the primary pipe. This causes the water to flow only in the primary pipe MOST of the time keeping sediment from forming in the pipe. The secondary pipe is only used during the Spring flow. Make sure any pipes install have a fall in the direct you want the water to flow.

You need to make sure you compact well around the entrance to the pipe (or better yet put the concrete wall and apron at them.) or the water will slow find a path around the outside of the pipes which will wash out the pipes and driveway. That's why professional culverts have either the concrete headwall or a metal flare opening.
Actually I was going to install 3 culvert pipes with flared openings. This is because of width of low area. 2 of the 3 were going to be above the normal flow. I plan on using big rocks and concrete around the pipes and then fill and crush/run gravel. Outflow I plan to have about 6 inches of well packed gravel put in such a way it directs the outflow. Thanks for the input. You folks are awesome.
 
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