Bee Supply List

Discussion in 'Beekeeping' started by FlipFlopFarmer, Jul 18, 2006.

  1. FlipFlopFarmer

    FlipFlopFarmer Well-Known Member

    Nov 20, 2003
    I wanted to make sure that I'm not leaving anything out before I go shopping.

    This should at least get me started:

    Hive Top

    Inner Cover

    1 - 9 5/8 Super

    10 - Wedged Frames - or 9 I guess if I go with a frame feeder

    Foundation - The guy I'm getting the bees from has a swarm that has made their home in an old pump house. I assume that when we cut the comb off of the pump house, we would just use twine or rubber bands to attach it to a foundation-less frames? Is that correct or should I just purchase 10 frames & foundation?

    Feeder - Ideally, I'd like to get a top feeder but will likely go with a frame feeder for now as I've heard that entrance feeders can lead to robbing. I can't seem to find the bee supply place that had plastic top feeders. Looks like Snow Peak has a "wood inside feeder" which I think is the same as what I refer to as a "top feeder" only it's wooden. Anyone have any thoughts on these?

    Entrance reducer

    Bottom Board - Snow Peak apiaries is closest to me but they don't have a screened bottom board. Would it be difficult to alter a regular bottom board to include a screen and a place for the sticky board?

    Hive tool & Bee brush

    I have the gloves, veil, smoker and coveralls to wear.....although my coveralls stink like cow! :cow:

    Please let me know if I've forgotten anything or you have a suggestions for items that are on your "must have" list.

    Thanks everyone!

    :) Carla
  2. ace admirer

    ace admirer Well-Known Member Supporter

    Oct 4, 2005
    rubber bands are good to put cut comb into empty full depth frame(i've also used string, but like bands better). you will need a long knife to cut comb. plenty of drinking water,(don't get dehydrated in the suit with all the work you're going to be doing). might be better to wash the coveralls, bees don't like animal smells. you will need a change of cloths to get into when all is done. a few towels, sheet of plastic, to sit the hive body on. (it will be dripping honey for a few hours) depending on temperature in your area, you might be better of with screen wire to stop off hive body. staples to nail all the hive parts together for the trip home. i think last time i did this i used some rubber gloves over my bee gloves because of all the honey you're going to get into.

    it sure would be nice to find the queen early in the game and protect her. this would also help you in controlling the colony. if you could get her in the hive body with comb and brood, i think the rest of the bees will be more inclined to join her as the sun goes down.

  3. beaglady

    beaglady Well-Known Member

    Oct 7, 2002
    You might want to consided using all medium boxes for hive bodies and supers. 1 full deep box, with either bees & brood or honey weighs somewhere around 70#. If you do, you will need 2 med boxes with frames to replace 1 deep hive body. You will also need a couple honey supers. These can also be medium boxes. IIRC, the medium boxes are 6-5/8" or somewhere in that neighborhood.

    You can use the comb from the swarm to start with, but I would suggest buying a little extra foundation even if you don't think you need it yet. Once they hatch any brood that is in the natural comb, you may want to move it to the upper box (assuming you have a second box). It won't stay nicely within your frames & you will end up with cross comb & frames stuck together, which is a mess. Since I just sort of mentioned natural comb, I might as well mention that you can just use 1" starter strips of foundation in each frame and let the bees build whatever size cells they want. It also saves money on foundation to do it this way. You may notice that the pump house bees make smaller comb cells than the cell size on the foundation. This is a good thing - smaller bees seem to be more mite resistant. If you find this to be true, this supports the method of using starter strips rather than full sheets of foundation, so the bees can build smaller cells on their own.

    Get extra frames too. Better to have more than you need than not to have enough. Once they have moved out of the relocated natural comb, you will want to add other frames for the sake of neatness. The frames from the natural comb can be reused, of course, after you have removed the used comb.

    Hopefully, I haven't confused you with talk of cell size and natural comb. Its an easy way to increase the bees resistance to mites without adding chemicals.
  4. ace admirer

    ace admirer Well-Known Member Supporter

    Oct 4, 2005
    back again ,,,rambling around,,sorry, it might be good to have an extra full depth hive body with ten frames with foundation to add to the mess you are going to have with the bottom box with robbed comb.

    on the top feeder,,,,for the past few years i've feed using gallon and larger zipper storage bags. put your sugar mix into the bags and zip them (be sure of the seal or big mess) . i remove hive top and inner cover, add an empty super. gently lay the bag of mix on the frame top bars. take a razor knife and gently cut a slit in the bag. cover with top. in a few hours the bees will find the slit in the bag and line up to take in the sugar mix. i like it because no extra equipment, no extra containers.
  5. alleyyooper

    alleyyooper keeper of the bees Staff Member Supporter

    Apr 22, 2005
    I like and use frame feeders too just rembember to throw some wood chips or packing peanuts in there to make rest for feeding bees.
    I have found that gallon pickle jars from the local pizza Joint make the best feeders. Drill a bunch of 1/16 inch holes in the lid and invert it over the intercover hole ( :) Drill the holes in that pattern)place a second deep around it and install the top cover. The jars are normally free as they just throw them out. I also use free 2 gallon pails from a backery the same way.

    :D Al