Attention Paquebot!

Discussion in 'Gardening & Plant Propagation' started by Rockin'B, Sep 23, 2006.

  1. Rockin'B

    Rockin'B Well-Known Member

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    I've been doing plenty of research on black walnuts and have to thank you for pointing me in that direction. I really need to re-design the garden to avoid this issue.

    Just wanted to say thanks. I really appreciate the info.

    <two thumbs up>
    :) :)
     
  2. Paquebot

    Paquebot Well-Known Member

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    Well, I have to do the same thing if I want to keep my walnut tree. Until this year, I was only concerned with the south side of the tree since that's the back lawn and where most of the home gardening is done. On the north side, there's a fair-sized kitty willow just outside the walnut drip line. I figured that the willow would tell the walnuts roots to back off. Nope! A pair of Marianna's Peace tomato plants are starting to wilt and they are just beyond the willow drip line. A few feet further, several pepper plants still are OK. Thus the walnut roots are passing through or around the willow roots. I'll have to remember to plant any tomatoes an extra 5' further north next year in that bed.

    I'm also thinking about moving my goldfish pond next spring because of the walnut tree. The pond was initially dug on Good Friday 1966. No problem for many years until the walnut tree began producing nuts. The squirrels sit in the tree and chew the hulls off the nuts. Those pieces fall into the pond and kill the fish. A week or so ago, I went from 11 fish to 2 overnight. Bummer!

    Martin
     

  3. Rockin'B

    Rockin'B Well-Known Member

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    Ouch!

    I'm really not too far from you. I'm not very far from the WI line.

    My property is mostly timber and most of that is walnut, oak and cherry. More walnut I think. They are just everywhere here.

    I'm going to build some large tall raised beds with bottoms in them. I'll have to put drainage holes/pipes so the water can drain out. I really don't know of a better permanent solution.

    Again, thanks a lot.
     
  4. jnap31

    jnap31 garden guy

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    I have a large walnut on the noth side of the garden maybe 35 feet from it, My tomatoes did fine but not the peppers I am sure the walnut is not helping I may have to sell it.
     
  5. Suburbanhmstedr

    Suburbanhmstedr Well-Known Member

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    Suburban Chicago/Green County WI
    We recently bought a property in Green County, WI, and have at least a dozen walnut-producing trees. Can someone point me to the earlier threads? I'm particularly curious if you can dry and store the walnuts after the "fruit" has turned black and mushy, or if you have to harvest green ones and remove the husk?
     
  6. Paquebot

    Paquebot Well-Known Member

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    I'm not certain that we've had a thread on exactly when to harvest the walnuts but it's shortly after they've matured and fallen off the tree. I say "mature" since various factors may have them being aborted by the tree before they are fully developed. Shortly after the mature nuts fall, the husk is still green or partially so. At that stage, it's easiest to get the husk off. In the past, I have waited until they turn black and mushy but it's one heckuva mess even with rubber gloves! Years ago, on the farm, we had an old corn sheller which did a perfect job no matter at what state the husks were in. Bits of husk fell out the bottom where the corn kernels would fall while the nuts were ejected like cobs. Then the hulled nuts would go into a washtub for a quick rinse and spread to dry for a few weeks.

    35' from the drip line of a walnut tree should be OK for tomatoes and peppers. That may not be OK if it's a monster old tree. I do know that 15' out from a 40-year tree isn't safe. If it eventually extends out to 35', I'll be in big trouble for about half of my city lot!

    Martin