Looking for ideas ( other than tractor ) for pulling t-posts.... something I can fab from angle iron...lever type device...maybe step on one end...back isn't strong enough for the old rock bar and chain trick anymore...
I built mine by hand with no plans and it works well. There is a 5 inch circular foot welded on to a 1 1/2" shaft at 34 inches of height, the square shaft is drilled at the top for a 1/2 " bolt. The handle is 2 pieces of 1/4 by 1" flat strap, welded at the hand end and shaped into a'Y' to straddle the shaft, the upper opening of the 'Y' is then returned to parallel side by side. The grabbing piece is made of 1/4 by 2 inch flat strap shaped for an opening roughly in a C shape, with both opposing sides of the jaws tapered to 45 degrees. Last weld is a 2" piece of pipe with 1/2" inch clearance internally that is placed at the end of the 2" flat plate,parallel with it. The vertical shaft is 11 gague hollow, all the rest is solid. There was 5 sets of parallel holes made at the pivot point for leverage adjustment, starting at 2 inches away from the grabbers own pivot hole spaced 1" each apart. Works best at 2 inch hole for me. PM if any questions.
The second portion of this tool is another handle and grabber for wood posts, there was a notch cut in vertical shaft on the two sides that do not have the pivot holes, within that notch is a space where a 1/2" by 2", by 4 foot solid handle is fitted, the handle is drill for 5 spaces, again for leverage adjustments. The end is the handle bar has a chain hook welded on with the opening pointed up. The grabber portion is a 5" ID steel pipe with a 3/4 notch cut 4/5th of the way of its 6 inch length, two 6" lengths of 1 1/2 angle, 11 gague, were welded to it length wise. Then drilled to accept a boomarang shaped grabber of 3/8th mill plate that has a chain link to include 6 links of 1/4 by 1 1/2 " chain which fits into the handles hook. The pivot is at the boomarangs center bend, with teeth ground within the outer edge, the tighter you press down, the tighter the teeth sink in.
I think I should get a job writeing instructions for Christmas toy assemblies!
Well I just use the t post driver as a pry bar myself, I put the solid end on the ground, butt the open end up under one of the nubs on the post, and pull the driver back towards me. Works pretty well, with me being a 5'4" weakling girl
....................Very simple to make one that will work on a front end loader.....take a piece of 1\4 inch thick , flat steel plate about 4 " x 4" . Cut a Cross type hole....just like a religious cross you would wear around your neck....then weld a 3 foot length of small chain onto the the plate ....the hole shaped cross will simply "slide" down over the top of the tpost and when you raise the FE loader it will catch on one of those bumps on the tpost......'ve pulled thousands of tpost with mine......fordy.....
I am always one for making something myself when a product is unavailable or sorely overpriced for a simple product, Mitch has a great design although i am having troubles getting avisual on it, it probably works slicker than goose grease on a frosty morning.
I started out to build one this spring, but i didnt need one as the ground was soft enough to pull them by hand when i needed to move a few, but if iwas gonna build one it would be pretty close to premiers design which works about as good as using a chain and bar on a "Y" stick.
or cut a piece of steel to fit over the post and onto the jack itself like they used to sell a few years ago, when i was using all cedar posts and did not ever think i would need one and when i did it was not available.
Another vote for using the driver also as a puller. One less thing to haul around. Can also use a tractor. we sink the posts with the bucket and can pull up tangled t-posts w/ a chain hookedonto the bucket.
A forum community dedicated to living sustainably and self sufficiently. Come join the discussion about livestock, farming, gardening, DIY projects, hobbies, recipes, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!