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Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by tinknal, Jan 13, 2018.
You’re the boss. ;-)
I do not know if it is a cracked head or block. I DO KNOW that my coolant is good. Why do you persist in this line of questioning?
Simply, how do you know your coolant is good. It hasn’t been quantified. I’m amused that you, and the boss, get so defensive.
I'm amused that some clown from the tropics is trying to tell someone from the arctic about frozen coolant.
I don't have a light. Would it be possible (assuming that it is timing) to turn the distributor enough to give it enough power to get it out of the woods?
It is so simple to open the radator cap and look in to see the coolant isn't slushy but free flowing liquid, no need to test any other way. Probably even see it circulating while the engine is running once warm.
Yes you may be able to turn the distrubter a bit to get it out of the woods. but I would not count on it.
As for a timing light !!! Type in home made timing lights you tube, in a google search box. Several come up made out of flash lites.
Have you gotten Allis out of the woods yet?
Know any one that could tow it for you?
I'm more ford than allis, but as long as you have an allis, you may want to keep this site in your bookmarks. It will come in handy.
Hi . Re wd45 running like crap . Have you checked for any holes or loose hose clamps on the carborator piping . I have never owned one .
But a neighbour had one & used it for yrs 2x a day doing chores . Very realiable little tractor . If you are having branches pulling off spark plug wires , possibly branches are hitting & moving other things . As this happened all of a sudden . Someone that knows these tractors better than me please feel free to correct me . Wasn't there float adjusting screws on these carborators also , if a branch turned one of these . Getting a good supply of gas to the carb ? Nothing blocking the gas flow from the tank . Had a very interesting time with ice once & in the summer with a neighbours tractor a moth floating around in fuel tank . Both these were 930 Case tractors.
Like someone else said get it towed to your yard so it's easier to work on would be my first to do.
Listen, I'm kind of new here but have been working on cars since forced to when I was an impoverished teenager. I'm 60 now. This is an old fashioned pushrod, carbureted engine. No sensors or computer. It should be a cakewalk to get it going. Any such engine will run if it has all of these four things: Fuel. Air. Spark. Compression. Have you tried squirting gas / starting fluid / other combustible into the carb? Have you pulled a plug, grounded it cranked the engine and looked at the spark? What does the oil look like? Black, or does it look like gray latex paint. If the later, the block / head cracked or it blew a gasket and the oil and coolant are mixing. Do you have a timing light - borrow / buy one - ? Look at the timing mark while it idles. Is it on the mark? Does it wander all over the place?
Considering that it lost power all at once, it's probably something like a vacuum hose that fell off making the mixture way too lean or something came loose in the distributor, like the point set. The condenser may have gone bad or become disconnected. I should re-read your thread because I'm in a hurry to get off to the local Dept. Of Motor vehicles so I can register my van to haul away junk from my own homestead. That thing died this spring and you wouldn't believe what I went through fixing it. It turned out to be a bad computer. It would have been far easier to fix had it been 10 years older and computerless. Cheers!
Have you checked compression? If you have a cylinder with 0 compression, then pop the valve cover and look for a dropped valve/broken spring. If compression is reasonably good in all cylinders (read that all about the same) then I would look at a timing issue, but usually if the governor goes out you lose everything. Timing with a light, the Fire or F (30 degrees advance) mark on the flywheel should be centered in the inspection port ( hole in the bottom of the clutch housing) at 1100 rpm and above. At low idle, you might see the DC (dead center) mark, might not. 2-5 degrees advance at 450 rpm. I have seen an instance where the head pulled off of a piston (aluminum) and it could be you just sucked some dirt in your main jet on the carb, but the loud rap in the exhaust makes me believe otherwise. Just my 2 cents. Point gap 020-022, plug gap 030. Valves 012 hot. All old ACs use the same numbers except the model G.
before you start tearing things apart.
is it possible that you had ice in the fuel tank ?
It is possible that the engine warmed up the fuel tank and the ice turned to water. been there, ..
You guys should all go back and read the orginal post. Was no tree branchs tearing things off the tractor. Had been running fine for a while getting fire wood out. Soot around the exhaust so it is dumping fuel thru a open valve and burning in the manifold. and then there was the loud BANG.
I have been around
Allis tractors from a WC to a D17 gas and there is no tree branch that can readjust the carbs on those tractors.
Gotcha boss. You’ll sort it out.
As you can see there are no vacum lines to the distributor on a Allis WD45. You set the timing and for get it.
Kind of hard for any branches to get to the carb.
Some clues. There was a loud bang, yet the tractor will still run but now power. Rules out a broken rocker arn as the Allis 226 engine will still have power with only 3 cylinders. Has timing gears not a belt so may be a broken tooth allowing rhe timeing to jump.Tractor is 60 years old if it is a 1957 model and who knows if it has ever been over hauled?
There is soot showing in the exhust maniforld joints, gas not fully burnt will cause that, so it is most likely fireing on a open valves.
My daughter Lives in Wisconsin not from from Hasting Minnesota and it has been below normal normal cold there since about the 3d week of Nov. So it the coolant had frozen and cracked the head or engine that would have happened well before the new year.
The tractors owner said he hads been useing The tractor to haul fire wood .
Where did the pictures come from?
I would not do that..if it is running , the timing can't be far off.
a blown head gasket will let antifreeze into the oil. look for milky colored oil.
or the antifreeze could be dumping into a cylinder. it would spray out if the spark plug is removed.
if that is the case, leave the spark plug out and see if you can make it go on 3 cylinders
the bang has me wondering.
I once broke a push rod on a cylinder. that made a big bang.
maybe take a spark plug out and see if the piston in question is moving up and down.
you don't need a special tool for this.
you should hear/feel the air rushing out.
an open valve can be somewhat determined the same way.
A bottle of Heet in the gas tank never hurt .
I am also a great fan of Sea Foam..
Sounds like a cam timing problem to me.
it's going to be much warmer this weekend so I'm waiting until then.