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A restoration project (making the old new)

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172 views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  PoBilly  
#1 · (Edited)
I do a lot of restorations and rebuilds of various tools/machines, ect. This one came with a story. Many decades ago this old, farmers shotgun was wrapped in burlap and buried in the ground to keep it hidden. It remained there for many years.

As you would expect, when the gun was unearthed the wood was gone and the metal is very corroded. I was old it was heavily greased to protect the metal. It worked, to a point. This particular homesteaders shotgun was then attempted to be cleaned and then remained in a state of disrepair for a few decades afterwards, Parts sitting in a box and forgotten. Until it arrived at my shop.

The shotgun is a Enders Royal Western 16 Ga. Break action. The top of the barrel is stamped with the following.

“Electro Steel Choke Bored gun patented August 12 1913”

Web searches state that the shotgun was made by Crescent Arms Co., which was associated with H & D Folsom Co. until the demise of both in the early 1930's.

The Enders Royal single shot scattergun was manufactured in an era when it was considered an inexpensive farm tool that would have been used by a homesteader.

Enders Royal was a "Trade" name used by the Crescent-Davis Firearms Company on shotguns made for the Shapleigh Hardware Company of St. Louis, Missouri. Thisshot gun was made somewhere in the 1918 - 1929 timeframe.

I was asked if I could restore the old gun into service. I was told explictily. "I want to be able to shoot this shotgun". This is not to be a show piece since the original gun was a hardware store “farmers” tool. The goal here is to return the shotgun to usable service to be fired and then perhaps hang on a wall in restored condition. It has sentimental value to the owner more than anything. Its not meant to be a trap gun or a shotgun that will see a lot of use.

I have resorted many old guns in the past but the guns always had a stock or I could at least purchase a replacement stock. That is not the case with this old shotgun. Weeks of searching for a replacement stock online got me nowhere. Emails to custom stock makers were also dead ends. Gun shows were of no use so making the stock parts was required.

Here is the old shotgun as I received it. Not all the parts were included.

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#5 ·
I don’t have a tall drill press to pull off drilling of a 16 inch deep hole through the entire butt stock for the mounting bolt that attaches the stock to the receiver so I need an alternate way to make a butt stock with a way to access the bolt for assembly.

The long bolt that holds the gun to the stock was not with the gun so I need to make a replacement. My hardware store did not carry a 5/16 fine thread machine screw as long as I need and not with a straight slotted head for a screwdriver so I bought a bolt and slotted it myself.
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#9 ·
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When I tried to disassemble the metal parts of the rusty old shotgun I was unable to turn the three screws that hold major components. I was bending the tips of screwdrivers and at least one screw slot was showing damage from attempts to break it free. I didn’t want to apply heat to such an old weapon and sure as hell didn’t want to snap the head off the screws with an impact driver. What to do?..............

Penetrating oil was useless in freeing the parts. I came up with a simple solution.

Equal parts Automatic transmission fluid and Acetone. Should you encounter corroded screws or bolts and find yourself in need of penetrating fluid I can highly recommend this concoction. I found this blurb online.

Machinist’s Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They arranged a test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.

Penetrating oil ….. Average "break free" load
None …………………........ 516 pounds
WD-40 ………………........ 238 pounds
PB Blaster …………........ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ……...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil …………....…. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix…....….53 pounds
.
The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of equal parts automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product at unseizing rusted fasteners and not just by a little. It really out performed any other product on the market.. Its much less expensive than specialty oils as well. A quart of ATF is less than $4 and a quart of acetone costs about $6.

I hoped to speed the penetrating action by submerging the entire receiver in the mixture and then vibrating it with an ultrasonic cleaner/bath. The only problem is, I don’t have an ultrasonic parts cleaner.

What I do have is an old Oster hair trimmer and an empty bean can. I will vibrate the hell out of the parts with a homemade ultrasonic cleaner.

Ive been cutting my own hair and beard for more than 20 years so I had an old hair clipper on hand hat would work. The screws that hold on the blades we used to attach the tin can to the clipper to vibrate it.

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I let the receiver soak in the solution for several hours then wiped the entire assembly dry. The seized screws and pins were removed with normal hand held screwdriver torque with no damage to the parts. The fluid had soaked the threads the entire depth of the screws. Im impressed by this simple mixture of fluids and will store that trick for future uses.

Now the shotgun is reduced to 40 rusty parts.

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All the parts are bagged with labels telling me what they are for. I photographed every step of disassembly. I don’t want parts (some are very close in appearance to one another) to get mixed up. As I restore them they will be rebagged until such time as I reassemble the shotgun.

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Now the fun begins. I can replace nostrils full of powdered walnut dust with powdered iron and steel.

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Im starting with the spring mechanism for the fore grip since the fore grip finish is nearly complete. This assembly is made up of 7 parts, all of which are pretty corroded. This assembly also spent time in the ATF and Acetone solution so I could take it apart.

Here it is right off the gun as I received it.

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Then Disassembled

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the parts after cleaning and bluing. Deep pitting the metal cant be corrected. It is what it is.

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The S.O.P. for the parts is as follows.

Disassemble
Manually descale (Dremmel, sandpaper, files, steel wool, etc) to get rid of as much surface rust as possible
Acetone bath with tooth brush (to degrease)
Chemical rust remover (30 minutes or longer on really corroded parts)
Water rinse and dry
Manual rust removal of any spots missed
400 grit sanding, Steel wool and polish
Acetone bath
Dicropan cold bluing
0000 steel wool
Acetone bath
Dicropan cold bluing
0000 steel wool
Acetone bath
Dicropan cold bluing
0000 steel wool
Light oil
Bagged and tagged

The triple bluing and steel wool seems to give it good color and protection and shine.

All these parts are rusted and pitted so badly that it is not possible to remove all the pitting as it would dimensionaly change the parts or compromise them. While the pitting remains, the chemical rust remover does a good job of removing the rust and the small metal brush of the Dremmel gets into all the pits.

Many of these parts will need to be degreased again before I apply the baking lacquer ( protective coating) but for now they all get thrice blued and oiled.

Here is the fore grip spring mechanism reassembled after blue and oil. Not picture perfect but corrosion protected and functional. It will be disassembled again for the baking lacquer.

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#13 ·
#12 ·
Looks like it is coming along. Long and tedious process. Takes time and patience. I struggle with the patience part.

The walnut block looks to be in great shape and will make a great finish.

Good job and very informative. Thank you for posting
 
#18 ·
This final post is a short video of the test firing. (link below)

Firing the restored shotgun

The End.

I have several restorations that I have done. The picture below is what happens when you keep your pet racoon in a small room that is also where you store your Ithaca Shotgun. Raccoon urine has powerful effects on metal.

This is a 1967 Ithaca model 66 Super single, buck buster, lever action 20 ga shotgun. The stock was also missing from this gun. The owner wanted it restored if possible.

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#21 ·
Just me - ya don't try to put a 3" in a smaller chamber. It won't close so I'll jam it harder! This to me would be his joke to stupid people. Not that he would ever let that gun go....

He is looking more like a homesteader by the post. And what can he do elsewhere if he can do that restoration? And the jars? Yall should take a look. I'd never do what he has done because I'M not there and too old. So eat your heart out.

If I have a question and I ask this in all respect: is there a woman? If so she needs more credit.