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Wood Stove Pipe offset question

11K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  Clod Kicker 
#1 ·
So I'm planning to finished the install this weekend and hit a few snags. My joists are 16"on center while my rafters are 24" on center and it just so happens if i go straight up, my center point of the flue will only be 3.5" from a joist and a rafter will be in the way regardless of which side of the joist i move it.

So I need to move the stove pipe about 3.5" so it travels directly between the 2 joists. I found a chart online that i think I understood as if i use 2 15degree elbows with 6" of pipe between, it will give me 3.25" of offset. Does that sound right????

I'll have to cut through a rafters regardless but will brace it with 2 2x6 on either end
 
#2 ·
#9 ·
Yes, that's the plan. Single wall to the ceiling then i bought a flat ceiling support kit with 9ft of chimney pipe to finish through the attic and out through the roof.

I actually went with 2 30degree elbows back to back which gave my the 3.5" of offset i needed
 
#5 ·
Let's say the stove pipe is 8 inches in diameter. With floor joists 16 inches on center, you have 7 inches clearance on each side of the pipe. Unless this is the costly triple wall insulated pipe, that is no where near enough clearance. When you say rafter, I assume you mean the roof supporting structure. Sure you can cut it off, double the rafters on each side and box the opening. But what do you do about the roof sheeting boards, tar paper and shingles?
Trying to imagine what your plan entails, please go with a ceiling collar, insulated pipe through the attic, out the roof, with specific clearances.
 
#11 ·
When you say rafter, I assume you mean the roof supporting structure. Sure you can cut it off, double the rafters on each side and box the opening. But what do you do about the roof sheeting boards, tar paper and shingles?
Trying to imagine what your plan entails, please go with a ceiling collar, insulated pipe through the attic, out the roof, with specific clearances.
So i have an old home with hand sawn hardwood throughout and the rafters and joists are offset in a strange way to where i will have to cut one and box it in.

I don't know where i led in to believe i wasn't going with all the above. I've got a kit that includes ceiling collar, attic insulation shield, triple wall chimney pipe, and roof flashing.

I think what most here have a hard time seeing is the strange manner in which my joists and rafters are spaced. I'll try to get up and take a picture today.
 
#7 ·
I think haypoi t means seven inches of total clearance hopefully to be 3.5 on each side.
But his very good point is to use insulated pipe and don’t cut the rafters !
To properly Do it you need to run a extra full length new rafter on each side of the one you cut.
you are right, I didn't mean 7. Actually to be really correct, an 8 inch pipe leaves 3 or 3 1/4 inch clearance between pipe and joist.
 
#8 ·
Not enough in any case for a bare stove pipe even if it’s a six inch pipe.
If you are really hurting for cash I’ve seen a six inch pipe run inside triple wall pipe just where it goes through the floor joists and rafters but honestly it’s hard to justify in my mind for the 1,2 or3 joints saved.
 
#18 ·
Okay so here's where I'm at, had to call it a day because I'm roughly 8" short of code for chimney pipe. So instead of punch through the roof and not be "code", I'll save that for another day.

Inside the house is done. Had to elbow for a few inches to clear a joist
Room


I'm practically done in the attic, i did end up going with the 2 15degree elbows to avoid cutting through a rafter. All that's left is to drop a plumb line for the center, drill a 3" screw for my center, hop on the roof and cut a hole for the last pieces of chimney pipe & flashing

Pipe
Pipe Muffler Metal


Thoughts, questions, concerns??
 
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