My wife would love a fireplace in our home, so i ran the idea of a wood stove past her and she loved the idea. Insurance agent said it would only cost an extra $96/yr.
So I'm thinking one would look nice in the corner of our living room and I'm expecting we'll have to tile over a portion of the hardwood floor and potentially something fire retardant against the wall. Haven't called the township yet but i know they'll have requirements and an inspection
I just have no idea what type/brand to look for. I'm sure my wife would love something with a see through door to get that fireplace appeal and I'm looking for something for wood fuel because I've got way way way too much hardwood around the property that needs cleaning up.
Any and all experience & advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
Okay, sorry to bring this one back from the dead but I've got a mantle question.
My original idea of a barn wood beam mantle won't work because of stove pipe clearances to combustibles.
So now I'm thinking about "wood looking" tile but what noncombustible material can i use as an anchor to the wall studs but also attach the gypsum board to in order to tile it??
If you can't tell already, I'm not a very carpentry oriented person and my old man is back in Florida for the winter
Boy i hope the install went good because i just lit the first fire to "cure" the paint on the stove. The chimney is a little off level but it was nearly impossible to level it with the way i had to use those 2 15degree elbows
OK... Do that here and it is an INSTANT FAIL ! Those 15 degree turns must be at the top, also make sure to put a Chimney Thermometer on that pipe so you know if your over or under burning, both have consequences and none good.
Ok question, so everything i read and have been told is to burn a HOT fire for the first 15-20 minutes to help with creosote build up but can't find out how hot HOT is?? what degree on my stove pipe thermometer should i be shooting for??
It's not just temperature alone.
It's more about burning all the smoke instead of having a smoldering fire.
If the flue temps are above about 250* you won't get buildup.
For us, when we start a fire in the morning, we just have the air intake wide open and let the firewood burn with maximum flameage (is that a word?) for about 20 minutes. It not only heats the room quicker, but burns out any soot left in the firebox/stovepipe that was created when the fire burned down the night before.
So i don't know if i asked this or if it's been answered but is it ok that the chimney pipe from roof line up to rain cap is not perfectly level??? I mean other than aesthetics
It does get a bit complicated. Everyone wants to get the most heat from the wood and capturing the heat before it escapes up the stove pipe creates more problems.
When burning dry wood, a hot fire will burn clean, Then when it has become charcoal, shutting down the air intake and baffling the stove pipe will maximize the available heat.
When burning wood that isn't dry, lots of air will help combustion. But the moisture turns to steam, cooling the fire. Shutting down the air intake will smother the fire, while unburned smoke belches out the stove pipe. This cooler, moist smoke sticks on the stove pipe setting up the risk of a chimney fire.
My opposition to free standing outdoor wood boilers is that the length of firewood makes wood splitting impossible. So, improperly, incompletely dried firewood is used. Loading up any wood furnace with lots of poorly dried wood, then turning down the air intake insures lots of stinky creosote building smoke. Since most have a short stove pipe, the cool smoke drifts horizontally into surrounding homes. Many communities have enacted bans on these stinkers.
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