Homesteading on the West Coast of Canada (BC) - from scratch

Discussion in 'Homestead Construction' started by melli, May 11, 2016.

  1. melli

    melli Well-Known Member

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    3rd row almost up...have to make a decision as to height of windows. I'll likely take a while mulling that one over...want them low enough so one can easily see out while reclining on couch, but not too low that furniture will block a portion of window...hmmm.
    I like being able to make things up as I go along...lol, but I will overthink it. How high is a normal kitchen table?
    Being in RV doesn't help me...
    I marked where all rebar is on interior, so when I insert verticals (when all rows are up), I will know where to put them (they just need to mate reasonably close, but not be tied together).

    BTW - I mentioned the possibility of cutting the Styrofoam in situ but take that back...haha...when cutting Styrofoam you leave a mess of shavings, which I don't think you want in forms. Easy to pull them off and cut on side.

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  2. melli

    melli Well-Known Member

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    Lots of mucking about today...I decided to get door bucked in (frame), so I don't damage the foam every-time I step through and to give myself a reference so all the window tops match top of door (supposedly more architecturally pleasing to eye, than windows offset from door) Plus, I want to anchor the buck to the rows as I go up...debating that idea. I could anchor it after the pour. The manual says to put a mess of nails around outside (cross-hatch pattern) so the concrete will lock it into place...I didn't like that idea at all. For starters I want the wood (PT) not in contact with concrete at all (so I wrapped the outside with 6mil vapor barrier). I was going to use long 1/2" 'L' anchors. Drill a hole and stick anchor through bucking, then tie the anchor with rebar wire to the plastic webbing of foam. I will inset anchor, so it isn't protruding from face of bucking. This way, it would be easier to remove bucking down the road if I needed to repair/replace them...plus, anchors are much stronger than nails.

    You can see the bottom of the living room windows have been notched. I used my worm saw this time. Works like a charm, although the foam bits coat the saw...hmmm...hopefully the bits don't get inside saw and melt. I found my Stihl blower cleans up the foam chaff really well. BTW - be careful you don't drop anything in form...can be tricky to get out...;)

    You'll also notice the sills are 2-2x4s...this is to allow the concrete to be poured below window and doors. The rest of the bucking is 2x12 PT wood.

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  3. ForestToFarm

    ForestToFarm Well-Known Member

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    Looking good.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
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  4. melli

    melli Well-Known Member

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    Fourth row...
    I better get cracking and get some bracing up before a windstorm blows it all away.
    I took some pics of the anchoring I was yammering about in previous post. Figured this way is more 'elegant' than a pile of nails.
    And it will serve a 'small' service in holding window and door frames in place when pouring concrete....

    I'm never happy with quality of materials for building stuff, and the ICF I got is no exception. It seems most of the damage is from poor handling...in my case, they tossed onto a flatbed without sweeping off pebbles/debris, so bottom layer is scored and pot-marked, not to mention full of rust. They accidentally gave me 'adjuster blocks' which had a 2015 date stamp! One can see if these blocks stay out in sun for a few years, they look like crap.

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  5. melli

    melli Well-Known Member

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    Not a lot happening the last few days...just rain, except today. And putting in the interior 'batter' boards, and some vertical bracing was about it...and I went nuts with a can a spray foam first thing to get all the gaps, seams etc.
    Those horizontal 2x4's are not in the manual...I figured since I will have to put them in when I do interior (they will support a 2x4 wall for service runs - electrical, plumbing, etc), why not put them up now and they can act as bracing. Not sure if it is kosher...concrete guys will let me know.

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    BTW - those vertical braces are 12' tall...wall will be about 10' max.

    While it was raining, some time in Bobby was in order (full cab with heat). Those forms I used to make the carport posts will be reused to make a workshop carport/woodshed (half carport, half enclosed shed). I will place them properly, anchor them, and get some rebar in them. As I mentioned before, always a good idea to have 'overflow' forms. When I do walls for bunker, I always over order, as one never wants to be short...and the excess can fill these forms.

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    Instead of strapping (cradling) the completed form (far one) from underneath (I was lazy and it was raining), I just stuck a 5/8" bolt through saddle on top and used chains to haul it into position...heavy concrete block! Bent 5/8" bolt like spaghetti, but didn't break.
     
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  6. melli

    melli Well-Known Member

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    Finally got the windows sorted....all the bottoms cut out. Really was a head scratcher, in terms of deciding appropriate window heights, especially for Kitchen windows...how far off counter? Did I want a back-splash, and maybe I want to raise counter-tops (as I am a tad taller than average). If I raise counter-tops I have to make sure I have windows high enough....blah blah blah.
    I went to a couple of houses in hood and measured their window heights. I settled on 43-1/2" (finished height). But it depends on what I do with floor as to exact finished height...lol
    The bathroom and 'bedroom' window heights are same as kitchen (just easier to be the same as kitchen).

    Took a interesting pic down the ICF row....
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    In my seismic zone, we are required to have double row of rebar around all openings (windows). They have to extend about 26" past opening (for 5/8" rebar). I screwed up the living room windows, as I was trying to snake rebar with row complete (a real hassle)...I realized one can just put in window pieces (removing rest of row), then it is easy to slide rebar in. Doh! I was wondering what the manual meant when it mentioned this step. Now I know.

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    Things should progress more smoothly from here on out...no thinking involved, except making sure window boxes align with top of door. Just need a few nice days (windstorm tonight). Speaking of wind, for those folks on the prairie where it blows 24/7, really secure your works (not only building site, but Lego pieces yet to be used). A good 30mph gust will send these suckers to the next town.

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