another tractor question
 

I have a 34 hp diesel tractor which I have been using on my flat farm for a while. Recently, I bought a 10 acre farm with rolling hills and tried to fertilize it pulling a fertilizer buggy with 3600 pounds of fertilizer in it. My tractor sadly couldn't handle the job adequately, having a hard time pulling up the hills. It is a 2 wheel drive tractor with a front end loader.
Really don't want to get rid of this tractor if I don't need to. Was wondering what difference it might make pulling a load like that fertilizer buggy if i first take the loader and bucket off? Would this make that much of a difference?
If you think I do need to get a bigger tractor, how much horse power should I look for? 2 wd or 4 wd?
Thanks!

I would be more concerned with a 34 HP tractor going down hill with a fertilizer buggy behind the tractor. On a steep hill such as we have here disaster is just waiting. Never fail to gear down the tractor and never lock the brakes.

While taking off the loader will lighten the overall load, it could change the balance and make it prone to flipping over when going uphill.

One option may be to use less fert. per load. Like a ton at a time or something? Hate to have to buy a tractor just to perform one task. Do you have other jobs that need more power as well? You need not only more power, but more weight for certain jobs...

Whether I am spreading the fertilizer or pulling a bushhog, I suspect this tractor may be too small...

I have a 35hp New Holland and as far as a brush hog, it will do it just fine. It also pulls a box blade fine.

However, mine has three different settings, low, med and high. In low it is very slow but very powerful. I also have 4wd. If things get really bad, I can use differential lock and can get out of most anything.

Yes, I think 4wd would be very handy.

So you never did say what the problem was. Running out of power to make the hill or losing traction?
Running out of power you can haul less other wise more HP needed.
Traction you can add wheel weights and make sure the tires are under 10 PSI of air and have good tread.

:D Al

The problem was traction. Have great tread on the tires, but may be inflated more than 10. Made a bunch of ruts trying to go uphill, even going at an angle.

I would reduce the air pressure to 7 pounds and add a couple wheel weights to each side. Massey Harris weights are 108 pound each.

Al

Does Your tractor allow duals on the back? If you can find a spare set of wheels cheap maybe a worth wild investment.

No, no room for extra wheels.
Do you recommend 7 pounds pressure in all 4 tires?

The biggest concern is your back tires. The lower psi will allow the tire to squat a bit and provide a bit more surface for traction.

With a FEL I wouldn't reduce air pressure in the front tires...

Leave the front tires at the recommended PSI suggested on the side of most tires.
I recommend 7 PSI in the rear for the added traction with wheel weights.. Many wheel weights have the same bolt patteren , I've used IH weights on My bigger Masseys.
Duals will not help with that as Duals are more for floatation .

:D Al

Thanks for all the advice!

what kind of tractor and tires? R4 industrial tires ain't worth the rubber they are made out of it it's not warm and dry. A real R1 ag tire will pull 3x harder than any R4 but will leave tracks and ruts where the R4 won't leave marks in your lawn.

I'd put my 1950 Oliver 77 with Goodyear Dura Torque tires (50% wore) against my neighbor's 4wd Deere compact utility with the same horsepower rating. I'd out-pull the 4wd Deere any day of the week.

Not much description details on your tractor to go on...

With the FEL, do you have loaded rear tires... ??

On my compact tractor, I did a self install ballast of auto antifreeze and washer fluid for my winter conditions..... Even with tubeless turf tires, it made a big difference in loader work, and all around use... I'd never use salt solution as the damage it does isn't worth the extra weight to me... That being 10-11 lb as compared to 8 lb per gallon...

Good luck...

I suggest loading your tires..

I just had to take a wheel in today to get it patched. It's a loaded tire... Filled with calcium chloride.. HEAVY, as in around 600lbs or so... I've not done the math, but let me tell you, for one person to remove, load in the truck.. it's a chore.

My tractor is 28hp, 2 wheel drive, and does well on hills pulling a load.

One of the biggest pains in the rear when restoring old tractors is the Rims that need to be patched or replaced because they were filled with calcium chloride that leaked. And it is a whole bunch of extra weight to haul around to shows parades. I almost always remove the stuff as soon and I buy a tractor and IF weight is needed I use wheel weights and suitcase weights. Can dial in a tractors weight to almost perfect fit in weight classes at tractor pulls and adjust the balance too. can adjust the tractors weight on soft soil too so you don't get stuck sop easy.

Now it you really want to put some thing inside your tires I suggest Rim Guard its a totally non-toxic sugar beet juice product.
Ya cost more than calcium chloride but doesn't eat your wheels either.

1951 Massey Harris 44 gas. Note the wheel weights.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pqscan0007.jpg

1953 Massey Harris 33 gas, note the wheel weights.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pqscan0006.jpg

1954 Massey Harris Pacer, note the wheel weights.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ilerofwood.jpg

:D Al

If the tractor suits your operation in every other way just lighten the load and make more trips.