Paint a Car with Rustoleum
 

Has anyone heard about this or tried it?

There are many videos on youtube about repainting your car or truck using Rustoleum paint for less than $100. Some do it with a roller and others with spray cans. Obviously, if you have access to a paint sprayer, that is even better. I was checking out rental rates for an auto paint sprayer and I could get a MAACO paint job cheaper than I could rent a sprayer for a week.

I saw a suggestion to buy real auto paint instead of Rustoleum, and then follow the instructions for rolling it on.

Thoughts?

Years ago, I had a 1987 F150. When I got the truck, it had 200k miles on it, paint was flaming off the hood and genders, the bed was a few different colors, a grey door and a blue door.
I primed it with rattle can primer just to get it all one color.
Then I had the idea to paint it. I had a cheap paint gun that came free with my air compressor.
I bought 2 quarts of white rustoleum paint, and ended up having to cut it with a little over a gallon of paint thinner.
With no garage, I parked the truck in my back yard, wet sanded the primer, cleaned it and went to masking off Windows and trim. That $20+/- paint job took about an hour to shoot, but the next afternoon it was still lightly tacky. The next morning it was no longer tacky and just as shiney as could be.
I had a couple of runs, but it was a very nice looking 30/30 paintjob. Meaning it looked great at 30mph from 30 feet away.

A couple of hours later I drove it into town, once I got to my destination and got out of the truck, I could see several spots where the top layer of paint had literally slid backwards floating on uncured paint, leaving large patches of wrinkles.

Ok, I just watched the video.....
Wow, yeah, it looks pretty good, and will for a few weeks at best.
I just found it funny at the end it says, take your time and do it right....

There are some followup videos which shows it holding up for at least a year or 2. Some are putting a clear coat on and others aren't. I haven't seen any long term postings that suggest how long it holds up.

Ok. I guess I should post more of a background on me. In the past several years i have been taught to paint properly. I hate doing cars and trucks, but with my airbrushing abilities thrown into the mix, I have done many many custom paint jobs on harleys. I love painting bikes.

I just can't imagine a non catylized clear coat lasting in the sun, rain, etc.

I painted a 1980 ford pickup with Sherwin Williams enamel paint, I just brushed it, no if your with in about 3 foot of it you can see it was not sprayed,
but it so much better than when it was first got it. the roof was totally pealed off, and the doors were over painted signs,

the chrome has been removed so it is all the same, got the bumper and guard off another truck that had rear damage,

and now I have new 16" instead of the 16.5' rims on it and all the same type,

It has a Chevy type rear axel under the back of it so the back takes Chevy rims and the front takes the ford coined rims,

the cost was right, and it runs, and does what I want it to do.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

I think the Sherwin Williams enamels are fairly color fast, and the paint is much like the old paints of the pre 1980's when the car companys all got the bad primers that let the paint flake and before the car companies went to the crappy clear coat junk that peal off in a few years of being out side, For a old work truck or an out side car/truck, I like it better,

Looks like a 0/30 paint job. As long as you don't get to close ...

I'm working on a 89 Mustang restore think i should go with Rustoleum ?:awh:

Years ago I brush painted a 49 Chevy . Wish i had it today :Bawling:

Dixie Bee Acres
Wish you were closer we would decorate this thing up :happy:

Think i'll go with House Of Kolor start to finish . :run:

The summer of 2012 I had a college student helping me upgrade some rental units. He had a truck he inherited that had one side that was badly peeling. The student told me his girlfriend did not like riding in the truck the way it looked. I had him go to NAPA and get aerosol paint and a few supplies. Over a weekend he did some prep work and painted the damaged area and did a sun cure. Just recently I saw the truck again. It has held up fine. The relationship is holding also.:happy:

Now that's gonna be an expensive paintjob. HOK is nice but pricey.

I would not paint a newer car with Rustoleum or brush it, unless it as a short term fix on some pat of it,

but most all of my machinery is brushed painted, I prefer spraying but some times it is not the way to go for some reason other the other,

when I did this truck I did not want or have the time to properly mask things, and just wanted to get it looking better and protected so it would not become a rust bucket,
and since the truck was a freebee, I really did not want to put a lot of money in to it,
but I have been using it now for at least 6 years, and it may now be closer to 10 years, the guy who had it wanted a newer truck, and was tired of it, but I put the welders on it and a air compressor, and mostly just use it around the farm here, not putting on many miles a year on it, but still a good truck, makes repairs on many thing much easer, as I do not need to try to see how close to the shop I can get,

I think a lot depends on what the problems are and what your working on,
all I know is that the truck looks better than some of the other trucks I have with the original paints on them,

[QUOTE=Sawmill Jim;6855198]I'm working on a 89 Mustang restore think i should go with Rustoleum ?:awh:


Dixie Bee Acres
Wish you were closer we would decorate this thing up :happy:
[/QUOTE

If I can get a couple of pics to load, from my Photobucket account, I'll show you a few test and practice pieces I did.

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...7/fireflag.jpg

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...7/100_2942.jpg


http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...977/flag16.jpg


The POW embossed look over a flag, and the smoking HD and flag were just on flat aluminum panels, the pin-up was on the back of a tool box.

Here's a few of one of the last sets of tins I painted, for a softail. A little hard to see, but this is rootbeer with ghost scallops.

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...977/flag16.jpg


http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...7/100_3007.jpg


http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...7/100_3003.jpg


And if you can read in reverse, this is a shot looking into the paint on the tank, seeing a reflection of the stuff I use to polish the clear.

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...7/100_2982.jpg


Ok, I'm done, sorry for hijacking.

Sorry, double post

I have helped spray bomb a couple of motorcycles, they looked better after than before. They sure didn't look anything like what Dixie Bee is doing!

I have seen a couple of spray bomb car jobs, it seems to be hard to get an even coat.

I saw my mom paint an old impala we had with a brush, she had a bet with my dad. It didn't look too bad, it still had the paint on it when they sold it.

It really depends on your expectation as to what you will think of the result. I can tell you that setting in a parking lot, moms bush paint job wasn't noticeable as such...

I wash my cars and trucks once a year if they need it or not,

I have a friend who has painted panels and partial cars using the Dupli-color rattle cans used with clear coat afterwards.

I've spray a few parts too with the Dupli-color cans with CC afterwards.

At $8 a can, it isn't super cheap, but you might be amazed how nice it looks when it is done correctly.

I sprayed a very faded front bumper cover with Dupli-color and CC, and I'd say that 99% of people would never guess that it had been repainted. My friend painted a dog house and front bumper of a Bonnevile, and I swear...even close up, you couldn't tell that it was a rattle can job.

The nice thing about the Dupli-color paints (and other brands like it) is that they are color matched to the make/model and year of the car.

I tell ya, that is some good stuff.

I prefer DuPont or HOK for my restos, but one guy brought his own paint in...quarts of Dupli-Color...pre mixed. I figured, it's his car, his choice.
Tossed them in the shaker for 5 minutes, loaded the spray gun (I use the old style with the cup on the bottom...LOL) and shot it...I was pleasantly surprised at the turnout.
At$27.99 a quart, hard to go wrong.

Matt

Did you shoot it with clear afterwards?

How much is a cheap clear coat? Does Dupli-color make an inexpensive clear in quarts?

Yup, I cleared it with the Duplicolor clear he brought, again, pre mixed. Same price as the paint.
Its "Paint Shop" by Dupli color. My local Advance Auto carries a few different colors, pretty basic colors, but they get the job done well...at least as well as the prep was done.

Matt

IMO ,Rustoleum is good paint, but it is completely over-hyped, that is is that much better, than anything else.

Once rusted metal is sealed - with any protective material - it stops rusting, for at least as long as the coating lasts, without any penetration of moisture.

I painted with Dupont Imron, many years ago, with good results, but any quality paint should do a good job and any paint at all, even rustoleum, will make it look better than it did before.

If you have an air compressor, I'd suggest buy a cheap paint gun and give a real paint job a try. With self-training :rolleyes:, my paint jobs turned out pretty good, definitely better than the way the vehicle looked before.

use a respirator, regardless.

I have to admit that I've been a little mesmerized by this thread.

While I have long heard about Rustoleum paint jobs, I had no idea that such nice finishes were being obtained with lost cost paint.

Not ever having seen one, most of the guys I know have said "Doesn't look too bad", but I was of the understanding that the Rustoleum jobs were being reserved for cars whose next stop might be to a scrap yard.

I've believed for many years that a person with a little patience could use good brands of rattle cans to get a very good "get ya by" paint job, especially if you had a decent ride with an ugly paint job. I've never understood the staggering prices of paint at an auto parts store.

I literally had no idea how nice some of these finishes have turned out.

As crazy as it sounds, I have renewed faith in people. If there is a better/cheaper mouse trap to be built, someone will figure it out.

I will also never look at another good car with a bad paint job the same...never again.

I have owned...and currently own a car that needs paint, but simply is not worth the cost of a professional paint job. I am encouraged!!!

I have a few more questions.

Please keep in mind that I don't have any experience in body or paint work.

1. Let's say you painted a car with a few quarts of Rustoleum. 10 years later, you realize you want to paint the car with real automotive paint. What would you do to strip the old Rustoleum paint off the car?

2. I understand that some people are using real automotive paint and rolling it on in the same manner that the video shows. Is this correct?

My Grandfather got a MAACO paint job a few years back, by the end of the first year it looked like it was a 30 year old paint job that sat out in a field for the last 20 years.

I'm a novice, but here's what I think.

1. Sand it down and prime it.

2. I don't know. I would think if you could thin it down the same as Rustoleum it would work, but probably isn't worth the additional cost. If Rustoleum gets you 5 years or more, why not just redo it with Rustoleum?

Okay, there are two methods to #1;
Sand down, as far as you can without hitting the metal (read rough up the old stuff until you hit primer), get it as smooth as you can...the best painter in the world can't do a good finish if the base isn't as close to perfect as you can get.

And the proper way...either sand or sand blast (careful not to warp the metal...get a pro) down to the bare metal. Degrease and remove all dust, cat hair, etc. (assuming you do not have a down draft dedicated spray booth). Acid wash the bare metal, then an acid etching primer.

And these steps go with both choices;
Find the paint you want to use and get the appropriate primer...just because both are DuPont doesn't mean they are the same system...urethane, laquer, etc.
Cover EVERYTHING you do not want to get paint on; over spray will get EVERYWHERE. If doing in your garage for instance, get a bunch of those cheap plastic drop cloths, tape them at the seams and go from floor to ceiling...make a bubble for the car. Also, using those same type cloths, cover the floor, and tape it to you plastic "walls).
Wet the entire area, walls and floor. This will reduce the amount of possible dust getting kicked up and landing on the paint.
Pull car into bubble, having already taped everything on the car off that you don't want the paint to stick to, have all materials and equipment ready and seal the bubble.
Degrease again using lint free cloths...some go cheap and just wash it with Dawn dish detergent, but if you've gone this far, do it right.
Mix paint, put on respirator and spray away...this is the hardest part to get right.

I know its a lot, but this is merely the short crib notes edition, hence the cost of a GOOD paint job. Feel free to give a yell on specifics. Lots of good books and videos, but they really don't prep you for when the time comes...just practice.

Matt

And, part 2, I have seen rolled and brushed paint jobs, tho rarely, and they car be just as good, but much more patience is required. Brushing works best, but you need THE BEST brush money can buy...cheap bristle brushes...might as well use a broom.

Matt

I have an old Chevy that I'd like to paint.

I'd like for it to be as close to the original color as possible, and thought that going to an automotive paint would allow for a custom or mixed color.

This car will never have any real monetary value, but I am very attached to the car. And all things considered, it probably won't be worth the work or effort when it is all said and done, but I love the car.

You know, this $100 paint job might be the answer to saving that old car, and I am excited about it. I have thought about scrapping the car, mostly because paint and body is so expensive these days. That car would take a minimum of $5,000 worth of paint and body, and even on a good day, it might be worth $3,000, and I haven't even figured in the cost of engine, chrome, or interior.

I think the $100 paint job might just be the answer! I have renewed hope of saving that old junker!

Thank you, Matt!!!!

I've had plenty of experience painting houses, and that trade really boils to:

1. Proper surface prep
2. Good quality paint
3. Good quality tools

Most people freak out when you suggest hours of surface prep, a $20 paint brush, or $35 a gallon paint, but that is where very good paint jobs come from, generally speaking.

Farm store paint and it looks better than it use too.:awh::clap: If you are going to sand and prime you may as well go all out .

My first step last summer was build a shop ,next new HPLV guns then a new DA and now my compressor just died :awh: I want a paint booth but am afraid to bring up the subject with the finance dept :smack

Matt Some primer and paint systems don't like acid etch or etch primers . HOK is one of them .Trick with some of these methods is nuturlizing the the paint removing process such as soda blasting before putting on primer . Now days the HPLV paint guns reduce over spray by a really large amount . If you arn't in a hurry you can use a DA and sand to metal too.

We took the op's post from a roller ,brush to high tech top of the line paint in a few posts :clap::happy:

HVLP, and HPLV are not my preference... may be better for some, but I like old skool bottom tank guns...just have better results. To each their own and if it works, kudos.
Yup, large capacity compressor is necessary...little five gallon ones won't cut it unless your just doing a fender at a time.
HOK is a completely different topic...we are talking lower end but good results. I love HOK, but have gotten great results with DuPont and even Duplicolor. Local NAPA still will mix you custom colors, but $ are matching HOK any more.
Soda blasting is great, but I've had great results with corn cob media and walnut and hickory shell media...it's all preference and what works best. I've dealt with flat and fat fenders (VW Things to 40 fords and everything in between), each job has different needs, IMO.
What vehicle are you planning on doing? You mention chrome and engine...now you are really opening up some doors and possibilities :happy2:
If you need anything, drop a line.

Oh, yeah, I can turn a simple idea into a nightmare/dream pretty easily...it's a gift...:rock:

Matt

I got a 89 Mustang LX 5.0 HO or the boy does . Just needs a few odds and ends .Like a complete paint job ,go threw the motor , transmission, all the brakes ,steering ,shocks ,struts but the radio is fine :runforhills: Trying to get him to spring for parts ,the labor is free. I got a few other projects that will get the standard body shop paint job ,scuff cheap primer and shoot .

Got any spare 5. 0 parts like computer roller cam injectors ? Need just a tad more HP :D


Matt wish you and Dixie Bee Acres were closer . :sing:

Forget computers...I deal with modified carbs...throttle body fuel injections if I can be convinced, otherwise, I farm that out. LOL!
Super chargers (671s especially) no problem, but like to either make them REALLY stand out, or not be seen.
Different cams, rockers lifters, NOS, headers, straight exhaust...like I said, I like old School, i.e. how my dad did it in the 50s. Where you can sit on the fender and have room to work on the engine in the car...a stand only if nece$$ary.

BTW, I had an 87 GT convert, nick named the Target. totaled 3 times...1) a tree limb fell on it and crushed it from front to back. Second time, coming from the body shop for #1, lady lost control in the snow and t-boned it at the rear pillar. Third time, lost control in the snow, spun and ripped the front end off...Stangs stink in the snow...LOL!

Matt

Yep those things hate snow or a wet road ,if your foot had a little lead in it :smack I doubt this one will ever be in the weather very much . May be drove average of a hundred miles a year .

I like the old school carbs too but these multi port with roller cams are so easy . Stop at 300 hp the stock computer may work out .

do you have a Wagner electric power sprayer ?,,might be good alternative to a roller if you don't have acces to air,,I still use an old siphon feed Devilbiss but I alwya wondered what a Wagner would or could do,or if you could use it with a solvent based paint without causing a huge fireball

(For those who drink) You know how you feel when you've had a little too much to drink and do something stupid? That's about how I feel painting my SUV with a roller!

I would plasti-dip before rustolium. I used it on a mismatched bumper and wheels and it hast held up great (2 highest wear areas on a car). Just need a clean surface will adhere even to clearcoat (remove wax with blue dawn soap). Have you ever seen kids with the import cars that look matte black? That is plasti dip. About 5$ a can you will need to do 2-3 coats though

Years ago, I wanted to touch up some scratches and beginning rust on my truck. I used Rustoleum primer. Sent my BIL to town to get paint, both colors, since it was a two tone truck. I'd asked for enamel, but he ended up with lacquer. First problem was that all the residue of enamel was "melted" by the lacquer in the spray can. Fine. I used lacquer thinner to clean everything up and started over. I do a good job of spraying enamel and the lacquer went on nice. Then the lacquer began to melt the Rustoleum primer, causing sags, exposing the primer.
So, if you use Rustoleum or any enamel paint, lacquer will react with it and you'll have a mess.

I did mention respirator, didn't I??? Been there, done that. At least is goes away quicker than a hangover.
Plus ventilation...

Matt

The best in my opinion! But even the cheapos at HF turn out a decent job when you get them dialed in.

Power sprayer is a neat thought for really grass roots, but I don't like much electrical stuff in the room when I'm shooting paint..."fireball" being the reason...those vapors are the reason body shops have blow out sections in the structure...seen the after affects...makes a gas explosion look tame.

Matt