OK, before I tear into the 9N......

NikkiMI · #21 01/08/12, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PD-Riverman

Try this-----have a flash light with you, the next time it does this look in the bottom of your tank where the fuel tube is for a minute and see if there is any air bubbles coming out of it. My 600 work master does this after I work it some. Never acts up just driving it only when it put it under some load. I call it vapor locking, it is getting the carb hot under some load and causes air bubbles which has to go up the line to get rid of them. I can also look at the sediment bowl when this happens and there will be a air space at the top that you will have to look close to see. I had the timing checked, it was right. I put a good fuel filter in my line and turned the sediment bowl sideways and that helped it to run longer, but would still cut off later with more air space in bowl. I tried running a 12 volt fan(my tractor is converted to 12 volts) blowing on and behind the intake/carb and that was a lot of help. I only used this tractor a little each year so I just learned to live with it. If it would cut off when I was disking the garden I would just go do something else for a while and let it cool some. My tractor was not running hot but the intake/carb was getting hot under load. I would come back and crank it up and disk some more. I started getting into planting some corn and I bought a new tractor. I still got my 1957 600 work master but I only use it for light work so I never tried other things to see if I could work out this problem. I was going to take a piece of flat metal to use as a heatsink/shield, drill 3 holes in it using the carb gasket as a pattern, putting it between 2 carb gaskets allowing this metal to stick out several inches away from the carb(look like a way to big carb gasket) to see if it would pull some heat away from the carb, but I did not try it. I had one other idea I was going to try if that did not work I was going to drill and tap a hole in the top of the piece that holds the sediment bowl(to the side of where the tube/bolt goes through it that bolts it to the carb) add a brass fitting so I could attach a tube and run the tube up higher than the gas tank with a filter on it----I was thinking this would give the trapped air some where to go which would keep the tractor running.

X2 My 55' Ford 850 will do the same thing when running regular auto gas under heavy load when it's hot out. On mine it's not the carb that's getting too hot, but the fuel line that runs within inches of the exhaust. I do not have this problem when I run AvGas (aviation gasoline) which is a higher octane leaded fuel. While I mainly run a mix of avgas with regular unleaded to get the lead for the valves the leaded fuel also is MUCH less likely to vapor lock, I never have vapor locking when I run 25% of more Avgas. I think the ethonol in todays gas lowes the vapor point and our old equipment doesn't like it too much.

tinknal · #22 01/08/12, 08:19 PM

Well, after loosening the lines and draining some gas through I haven't had any more trouble. The screen above the sediment bowl was clean. The sediment bowl had the usual debris in the bottom.

haypoint · #23 01/10/12, 08:12 AM

If it happens again, open the carb bowl drain plug. If no fuel runs out, you can be sure that it is running out of fuel. May be easier to spray atarter fluid down the carb.

I have an Allis Chalmers combine that is hard to start after sitting. With a full tank of gas and a fuel glass bowl, gas won't flow to the carb. If I remove the fuel line and blow into it, until I hear bubbles in the fuel tank, then fuel flows back fine. It seems like there is crud in the tank or line, but I could never find any.

Easier fix when you isolate fuel or electrical troubles.

agmantoo · #24 01/10/12, 12:56 PM

tinknal
haypoint

Are you familiar with how a fuel filter is located in a chainsaw gas tank? If so, replicate that with your combine and 9n. Remove the outlet of the gas tank. Solder a barbed fitting in the top of the outlet fitting. Get a length of rubber gas line with a diameter that will enter the opening in the gas tank. Have the rubber fuel line long enough that you can fish that line into the tank and out the filler tube. Get an inline fuel filter that will pass into the gas tank through the filler tube. This setup will lay in the tank and filter all gas going to the carb. Just remember that if the fuel filter needs changed to "fish" the inline filter out and replace it. This works great. The inline filter will hold a lot of trash before clogging and fuel is not picked up off the absolute bottom of the tank were trash exists.