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  #21  
Old 11/06/11, 01:44 AM
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Did you ever follow up on the timing chain cover gasket?
The reason I ask, is your story sounded a lot like a friend of mine who has an older Dakota.
Long story short, when he finally got a good mechanic to fix it, he was told it was a common problem. That the timing chain tensioner would wear out and eventually the chain would rub a hole in the cover.
Check that area if you can.
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  #22  
Old 11/06/11, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tinknal View Post
Well, I like the throttle body fuel injection. Less complicated and far fewer expensive parts to replace.
On Chev, I liked the 292 straight six with a 1bbl YF carb and 4spd tranny. Simplest setup of all, but rare as hens teeth, though GM offered GMC/Chev pickups that way through mid 80s. All the retail Chevy customers bought V8 and auto tranny. Only the fleet/commercial customers bought the big six and four speed, then that demand went away when diesels were offered. Diesels got better mileage and diesel fuel was lot cheaper than gas back then.

Luckily the similar Ford 300 was lot more popular with Fords retail buyers. They made them well into the 90s. Still easy enough to find a used pickup with a 300 in it.

For honest to goodness simple work truck, cant beat Chev 292 or Ford 300. Big torquey long stroke inline engines, super simple to work on. Lasted forever. Poor mans diesel.
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  #23  
Old 11/06/11, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by FarmBoyBill View Post
HJ How I supposed to keep the rpms at 1200 while Im out putting a cardboard in front and then throwing water into the fan after it heats up?n By the way, AC is shot. People who had it bewfore me messed up the plumbing to the ac for whtever reason. They had had problems with it, and I could see that they had poured a bunch of sealent at the rad mouth
Unless yours is a "drive by wire" system with no throttle cable, you just use small block wood or some baling wire to hold throttle open a bit. If you had drive by wire with no mechanical linkage, then you would have to figure some way to put bit constant pressure on the gas pedal in the cab.

And no you dont throw water in the fan. The fan draws air through the radiator. You first block the radiator so engine heats quickly and air around fan clutch gets hot, fan clutch engages so you hear the roar. Then you remove what ever you block radiator with and spray some water on front of radiator. This should quickly cool radiator and air back of radiator enough that the fan clutch disengages and the roar stops. You are just tricking the fan clutch into first engaging at basically fast idle, then disengaging at same fast idle. Nothing complicated.

Driving 5 miles down the road while you are in the cab doesnt let you hear the fan clutch engage and disengage. Now do you understand. Sitting in cab, driving down road, you have no way of knowing if a mechanical fan clutch engages or no. You need to be close to fan without the engine just turning fast enough to quickly heat things up.

Unless things have changed on newer trucks (yes '97 is newer far as I am concerned) the air conditioner is not connected to the radiator. If they put goop in radiator, then they had either radiator leak or they had bad head gasket or cracked head/block. Putting goop in radiator would have no effect on air conditioner.

Most of the "radiator sealer" stuff will PLUG A RADIATOR or at best reduce its cooling capacity. The only additive I've seen that actually works is sodium silicate ("liquid glass") and it is incompatible with anti freeze. You use it and you have to remove all propolene glycol antifreeze, rinse out residue and fill with plain water. then add the sodium silicate. Run it until leak stops and preferrably longer if no danger of water freezing overnight, then drain everything and replace with proper antifreeze mix. Sure you have heard of "glassing an engine", its very old technique. And it works long term. Sodium silicate is also referred to as egg glass or water glass, though havent heard those terms for long time.

Since its obvious the previous owners used radiator sealer in abundance, my theory that you are over heating is from plugged radiator is far more likely. Unless you need to use the sodium silicate treatment, dont put anything in your radiator except antifreeze and water in proper ratio. Anything else WILL PLUG YOUR RADIATOR and probably not provide more than temp fix to any leak. Modern radiators cant be disassembled and cleaned so you would then have to buy another radiator.

Oh if you do have to buy a new radiator, before installing it, rinse out engine water jacket and heater core with plain water. That radiator sealer stuff will still be in there, dont want it to find its way into new radiator.
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  #24  
Old 11/06/11, 06:44 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
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I am getting, or trying to get my 92 Isuzu Pup to running. It has a rod throwed. If I get it running, Ill pull the rad from the Dak and take it in to have it cleaned out Wed. See what that does. The pipeing for the AC they had messed up when I bought it. It was bent and plugged, broke and cut.
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  #25  
Old 11/09/11, 03:28 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Took the rad in to the shop. They just called. Charged me $80 and said it was around that % stopped up. Course, ya know there gonna say something like that, Proof oughta be when I put it back on. When I called him I had to look in the yellow pages for his number. There was another ad that had radiators for $75. Dangit, I always get screwed lol
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