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  #21  
Old 08/14/10, 04:02 PM
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
Talk to anyone who's worked in a circle mill with dirty wood. I sat on the end of a 1 1/2" fire hose for hours washing logs. I would imagine these days they use some sort of mechanical system prior to cutting. Heck, these days they probably run carbide.

Either way, if you read the literature from the chain makers they all say dirty wood should be cleaned if possible. Of course if you learn how to properly sharpen a saw, it only takes a couple minutes, it's not such a big deal. It's easier with chipper as the top angle is square to the chain, no "hook" required.
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  #22  
Old 08/14/10, 05:05 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 703
Well now days they mostly run debarkers. The bark is ripped off the log before it even reachs the saw. But, at our local shows I have seen the guys washing logs down that had to much dirt on them. Also it is a knowen fact that logs pushed into a pile by a dozer will raise cane with your chains.


With what you are doing go with a shorter bar and a good air filtration system. Stay away from the carbide chain. Its way to expesive and does not cut very fast. Keep some old chains around for your demo work and wear good safty equipment. Also carry a file with you and when the chain seems to be dulling a couple of strokes will have you back going quick. A minute or 2 sharpening will save you alot of time swapping out chains and the flustrations.


As to the tooless tighteners you encountered on the poulans. Well not much good to say about them. But, Stihl did have that system on some of there saws. I actually own a MS280 set up like that. They use more steel parts in theirs and works good. I can run a couple of tanks through it with out worry about the chain.
Bob
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  #23  
Old 08/14/10, 10:47 PM
"Slick"
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Moving from NM to TX, & back to NM.
Posts: 2,329
I have used the Poulan/Craftsman saws, and gotten pretty good use out of them. And I cut a fair amount of wood with them, and did not have the problems you say you are having. Almost sounds like the chain is on backwards. But more likely is not any bar oil getting to the bar.
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  #24  
Old 08/16/10, 01:35 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arizona - Zone 5, 5b, 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bret4207 View Post
Talk to anyone who's worked in a circle mill with dirty wood. I sat on the end of a 1 1/2" fire hose for hours washing logs. I would imagine these days they use some sort of mechanical system prior to cutting. Heck, these days they probably run carbide.

Either way, if you read the literature from the chain makers they all say dirty wood should be cleaned if possible. Of course if you learn how to properly sharpen a saw, it only takes a couple minutes, it's not such a big deal. It's easier with chipper as the top angle is square to the chain, no "hook" required.
Thanks Bret, there are a few mills around here, gonna ask around and see how they handle these pinyon/juniper stands.

As for the chain, I've read to use a full chisel and a chipper for "dirty" wood. Can't figure out which to use, too much misinformation. Which one?
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  #25  
Old 08/16/10, 01:40 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arizona - Zone 5, 5b, 6
Posts: 1,195
Quote:
"A chipper is a round tooth, round filed chain. It maintains it's edge better in dirty cutting. Chisel is a square tooth, either ground round or square from the factory. The fastest cutting chisel is the square grind. It is also the hardest to maintain unless you use a chisel grinder. The chisel tooth is more efficient because the square edged tooth severs the wood fibers better than a round tooth."
So, chipper or chisel?
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  #26  
Old 08/16/10, 06:25 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 703
You will not see many companys calling their chain chipper any more. Its either full chiesel or semi chiesel. You need the semi for dirty wood. It also works great in nice froze wood too. Chipper is a old term that was used when there was many different makers of chain.

Hope this helps.
Bob
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  #27  
Old 08/16/10, 08:22 AM
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
Look at the chains profile from ahead of the cutter. If it has a squared edge it's chisel, if rounded it's chipper/semi-chisel. I can;t find a picture handy.
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  #28  
Old 08/16/10, 08:49 AM
mickm's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forty Acres View Post
Back in my woodcutting days, I would touch up the cutters after each tank of gas. Five swipes per cutter with a proper sized file. This is done without taking the chains off of the bar.

At the end of every day, pull the chains, clean everything with compressed air and regrind the chains with a chain grinder.

Just remember, dirt is your enemy. Keep the chain out of the ground. Touch the tip of the bar to the ground and it will take the edge off of your chains immediately.

This is exactly what I do, and I cut a lot of hedge(osage orange), it is the densest, hardest, knotted up wood that I am aware of in the US. In a wood burner it also puts out much more heat and lasts longer then any wood I am aware of.

Dirt is your enemy, and any type chain is going to wear out quicker when exposed to dirt.

Keep it out of the dirt, touch up chains with every tank, get a file with a guide on it to do touch up, and any chain will last longer.

I am a big fan of Husquavarna saws, but with that said the little poulan/craftsman saws work well for folks who only use them for their own use. I am talking about the little bit older saws. I have a 5 year old craftsman that the ex bought for me, and it is my first saw to grab on a tree that is already fallen. It is light, starts easy and a wood cutting little sun of a gun, if you know it's limitations.

Lots of guys love Stihl saws, and they are an OK saw. It has been my experience that they are not as reliable as folks make them out to be..

Shindaiwa makes an exceptional saw, but don't squeeze your wallet real hard when you see the price!


Everyone likes a big saw, that cuts like butter, but they will work you more then necessary sometimes.

A good part of my income comes from cutting firewood, not to mention I use wood to heat my home. I am not selling saws and I loose money anytime my saw isn't running.

Thats all I have to say about that!:baby04:
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  #29  
Old 08/16/10, 01:43 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Korea---but from Missouri
Posts: 829
No a pro but I have stayed at a holiday inn.

Best saw for firewood that will last a lifetime IMHO:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS362.html

Compression Release; pro quality. It's not a huge saw so it is fairly light compared to what some like to use (I guarantee you for firewood purposes a smaller saw will out work a bigger one). It costs some $ but it is worth it.

Keep your bar/chain out of the dirt, be a nazi about keeping bar oil in the oil, and most importantly never ever use gas more than a couple weeks old and ALWAYS shake it. Besides remixing the 2 cycle oil, this new crappy gas will seperate the gas from the alchohol and could scortch a piston. Shake your saw also if you left gas in it before starting it (I always try to run it out or I dump it if I have to). Never leave the gas in the saw for more than a couple of days.

I would keep your old saw and buy this one as well; you really need two saws. No matter how careful you are, you will eventually get one pinched and need to cut it out.

I like steel toed boots and eye pro is a must; I've hurt myself in the past enough that I'm starting to be a safety nazi. I am considering hard hat/face visor/hearing protection combo and kelvar chaps. It its takes a second to hurt/kill yourself.

Last edited by silverbackMP; 08/16/10 at 01:51 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08/16/10, 01:53 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Korea---but from Missouri
Posts: 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashTestRanch View Post
So, chipper or chisel?
My suggestion is go to a Stihl or Huski dealer and see what the locals are using.
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  #31  
Old 08/17/10, 02:42 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern Michigan (U.P.)
Posts: 9,384
For cutting branches, anything under 6 inches, a smaller, lighter saw is easier to use. I often buy my firewood in 8 feet lengths. Cutting off a pile, a large saw will out cut a smaller one every time. I have a Stihl 361. It is a powerful monster.
I gave up filing chains. Quickerr for me to swap to a sharp chain and at the end of the day, use my bench mount chain sharpener, with an abrasive wheel. Dead on accuracy. Use it to keep the raker teeth exactly the same height.

I think for dirty pine, a strong saw and short raker teeth will give you big chips and less trouble with dirt.
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  #32  
Old 08/21/10, 07:40 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arizona - Zone 5, 5b, 6
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Got the Husqvarna 460 with a 3/8" skip chain on 20" bar ... it cuts like BUTTER, thanks to all who helped owe ya'll a whiskey, beer or sweet tea
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