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  #21  
Old 05/16/10, 08:44 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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Excellent!!! Good idea, Dale. Agman, I kinda see what they had originally designed and I can see why it was taken off. It would have had almost no sway control, and been incredibly weak. Maybe fine for rice paddys that are flat, but Japan has some steep slopes as well. Thanks for taking the time and effort to find that picture. On the toplink, I have one that is like what you referenced. I can't use it as a top link because it drives the bushhog into the ground when I cross a gully, but repurposing it as a sway bar sounds like a great idea.

You guys are great.
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  #22  
Old 05/16/10, 08:47 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agmantoo View Post
Mounting bracket #1 will have to be bolted on in order to mount to tractor.
Thought of that. That is why it is only the back half where it engages. Bracket goes under, is lifted up angled, then is drawn into final position with the bolt(s). Saw something similar and copied the idea.
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  #23  
Old 05/17/10, 07:03 AM
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Are the lower link points long enough to have the bracket resting there with the lower arms put back on?
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  #24  
Old 05/17/10, 10:33 AM
 
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Location: north Alabama
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Yep, there is some slop, so it shouldn't be a problem as long as those hooks are off to the side and not in the center of the link points.
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  #25  
Old 05/17/10, 11:58 AM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
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Harry
If you are going to have that fabricated why not just include a new hitch drawbar in the design? If it were me I would make the design to where the existing lift pins are captive to reduce any shifting.
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  #26  
Old 05/17/10, 06:49 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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Sigh. Got to taking measurements and feeling around underneath and discovered the drawbar doesn't go back and connect into the tranny case or frame, but is only welded to that bolted on plate around the PTO. Not strong enough. I also notice the lower attachment pins are tending to bend towards the front of the tractor a little. Time for some re-thinking.

As a temporary fix, I'll likely make a couple of slip sleeves to go around the rear axles, then attach a drag on both sides to extend just past the tires and act as a bumper. Meanwhile one of the attachment arms needs welded as it is beginning to crack at one of the bends.
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  #27  
Old 05/18/10, 08:51 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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Ever feel like old Nick is working against you? I got the stabilizer that was broken welded, got the attachment arm welded where it was cracking, tried a variation of running push boards against the axle (which almost immediately got fouled in the tires, so I discarded that idea), and tried to get back to bushogging in the original configuration to "get er done" and did one pass and broke the weld on a lift arm. Arrrgh...
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  #28  
Old 05/18/10, 09:18 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
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Harry
The bush hog jerking about is probably what is bending the lift pins. Once you get the mower stabilized the bending will likely cease. Cannot you make a bracket to affix to the chassis and then attach a new drawbar to that bracket and to the bolted plate at the PTO?
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  #29  
Old 05/18/10, 10:55 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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I think that may be a solution. I'm getting closer to replacing that bolted plate completely. I agree that the slinging is much of the problem.
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  #30  
Old 05/19/10, 09:08 AM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
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Harry Chickpea
A brief question. Once you have the mower set in the position you are going to mow is it essential for you to use the hydraulic lift? If not, I know how to stabilized the mower in a different manner.
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  #31  
Old 05/19/10, 09:18 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
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Yeah, unfortunately it is essential. When I turn on the headlands, I have to get that back wheel off the ground. When I don't, it stresses the lower attachment pins, and I can't get a turn radius that works. I also have some runoff dips in the land where the front of the BH can get stuck.

I'm having to do some major re-thinking (again). I realize that if I don't resolve the major issues, I'll be damaging more stuff. Why don't they make a Roomba bushhog?
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  #32  
Old 05/19/10, 10:03 AM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,560
Too bad about having to lift. If you are willing to try a cheap easy test I have one final suggestion. Put the mower on the tractor. Instead of a toplink substitute two chains. Run each chain from the bush hog lifts pin to the point on the tractor where the toplink would normally fasten. Have the two chains to where there is the absolute minimum or slop when the mower is at the ideal position for mowing. These two chains will greatly reduce the side to side slinging. You will be able to lift and the weight of the mower will help stabilize the mower when the mower is raised. When the mower is lowered to the mowing position the front weight of the mower will keep tension on the two chains holding the mower stable.
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