Please help me diagnose S-10 that won't start

What condition are the plugs,wires, cap and rotor? This time of year dampness will get the best of old plug wires. Worn plugs are harder for the spark to jump across especially with worn ign parts. might just be time for a good old tune up. Also don't discount the change in gasoline blends this time of year, makes some vehicles hard to start during this in between time.

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Well my S 10 only has a fuzz over two hundred thousand on it and still running so if it an't broke i an't going to fix it .

They are in fair condition. Not great, but not awful either. I suspect it is time for a tune up. This is not something I am looking forward to. I had a time just getting the boot off one of the plugs without breaking it...and even though the plugs are relatively easy to get to, it is still gonna be a pain.

BTW, truck is still starting and running great.

I would replace the wires while changing plugs. Your choice but I've never had any luck with cheapo wires. I always use Standard Motor Products brand wires. Boots should have a dollop of dielectric compound (silicon grease) in each one when installing/reinstalling. Then they will come right off with a twist. Don't forget to replace the fuel filter too.

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"Education is the ability to listen to almost anything without losing your temper or your self confidence"
Robert Frost

Good advise here, cheap wires don't last. It takes long enough to change 'em; no sense doing it every year when a set that costs twice as much will last for three years...you do get what you pay for w/ auto parts...

Since it is a GM stick to AC plugs...avoid Bosch Platnums...if you want a premium plug AC makes some. I always just jsued standard AC plugs.

My S10 2.8L started knocking at 196,269 and I purchased the GM replacement 3.4L crate engine, sold the truck 6 years later at 308,000 and two years later it is still being used by the guy who bought it...

My Jimmy has 189,000 on the 4.3L w/ no major problems. It is rusting away on me though...I've spent so much on things that I don't want to continue fighting the rust on a 16 yr old vehicle...I did change the front fenders andit was a real job...I need two doors and a rear gate and don't feel like doing it.

As much as I hate it, my '93 Ranger has zero rust...paint is peeling, no power, rides like it has square wheels but no rust...capable little 4x4 but I'll replace it as soon as I can...

Thank you again for the replies!!!!!!

The truck ran perfectly over the weekend.

I started it today, and I have a new problem.

The truck started fine, but ran rough. It eventually smoothed out and ran fine, but with a high idle.

Along with the high idle, and drinking gas, the truck...well, I am not sure how to describe this.....

In town, from a stop, the engine idled high enough that you don't have to give it any gas. It just starts moving when you take your foot off the brake pedal. It moves faster than it should, and will climb in speed...and will even switch gears into second gear...and keep on going.

As well, when driving at 50 MPH, and let off the gas to coast (when there is a red light ahead) the truck does not slow down like it should. It will slow some, but will take for ever to slow down to 40 MPH, but keeps going at that speed.

Also, when coming to a stop, the engine is idling too high and it takes more than normal to get it stopped. Even at the risk of sounding like a total idiot....it is like the engine isn't idling or 'vacuuming' down like it should.

It did give a service engine soon light when idling for more than a minute today at a stop light. Does this mean that it stored a code in the OBD computer?

I haven't had a chance to read any codes yet. It has been a busy day, and it is dark and cold outside right now.

Thoughts? Ideas? Opinions?

Thanks!!!!!!!

I think its your TP (throttle position) sensor.

It could be a loose nut in the driver seat...but, more likely a floor mat stuck under the accelerator pedal.

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I just did the paper clip trick, and it shows a code 35.

Two internet sources say this is the Idle Air Control Valve.

Any idea where that is located on the engine?

I have a guess...but it is only a guess.

Thank you everyone!!!! I really do appreciate the help!!!!! It means alot to me!!!!

Stuck throttle cable?




BTW bad coil does not always mean no spark, I always thought that myself.

Our Jeep quite on my wife a few years ago, I had fuel pressure and weak spark at the plug, I thought it must be a timing problem. Before I bought a part I called a local Jeep dealer and the service manager said, I have replaced a lot of coils on that model, try it before anything else.
I did, it ran fine...
I pulled a plug after the change, true blue.

I've since learned this part screws into the throttle body.

I am also told that it can be cleaned.

Is this true????

These may help

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Chevy_S-10...e_body_diagram

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl656f.htm

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl139i.htm

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...0-need-picture

Just as an update:

I pulled the Idle Air Control tonight, and replaced it with a used IAC that my friend owned. He had a spare trottle body from a Chevy 305 (I think). We swapped those parts, and the truck runs great!!!!! (So far, at least.)

I think that the IAC had gone bad in my truck, and caused the fuel mixture to be tremendously high, and therefore caused the truck to flood with gas in the throttle body, and would not allow it to start.

This is just a theory, of course, and I am not a mechanic, so take it with a grain of salt.

I do want to thank everyone for their help!!!!!! I really appreciate it!!!!!