Custom woodstove soon to be modified...radiator...
 

Thought this may be interesting and for you handy guys/gals, would love to get your input. DH (Len) is actually working on this project as I type (11:07pm- when this guy is on it, I just step out of the way). Now, for the picture of the Wood Stove he designed and built for us last year:
http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...NDLINGRACK.jpg
Any interest in how this wood stove works, let me know. Our blower currently works as a heatilator... DH was given an old Radiator. Earlier today, he sand-blasted it, and painted it black (I preferred gold, but hey, later, I guess). We had talked about the water pump yesterday...he wanted to install it under the master br sink...I am a light sleeper and would be able to hear it (that wouldn't work too well). A few hours ago, he was walking out front with a water pump in his hand, and he explained he was installing it in the water-heater space next to the water heater (good, I won't be able to hear it now at night- he got a hug for that). About an hour ago, he walked in and told me NOT to touch the thermostat in our br (something about a short...). I took that to mean I'd be electrocuted, so figured I'd just follow instructions. Since it was pretty quiet for the last 30 minutes, I went outside to find out what he was doing. A noise under our home startled me, and I realized he was under there. I called out to him and he asked me to pull the wire up through (beside the water heater) the floor. That done, I left him outside working on the project, which is:

Radiator in our bedroom at the far end of our double-wide mobile home (the wood stove is in our living room). He is installing the Radiator in our BR, the hot water line through the bathroom, which connects directly (under the floor) to the water heater, and pumped to circulate via the pump he is installing. This is temporary.

Next step is to modify the existing wood stove. Since the left side has a chamber built in, that is where the coils will be installed, and the pipe (s) will then go through the inside of the woodstove. The pipe connected to this will be sending cold water through the woodstove then the hot water back to the water heater, which also will send it to the radiator system. In the summer, the Propane will heat the water. That is, until he/we come up with something else... I am great for the ideas, he is great for the know-how (sometimes both).

Yes, I will post a picture of the radiator in this thread and more pics until the job is complete. Thought it would be interesting for you who are capable of doing this type of work. Regardless if someone may have a better idea, I am pleased I'll be warm this Winter :) Yes, DH gets another hug!

Sounds like he is building a closed hot water system. He'll need a temperature and pressure release valve in the system somewhere. Or he could end up with a ruptured line/rad/resivoir with resulting inury or damages. The pump is rated for hot water? Neat idea thanks for sharing it with us!

A closed system on a wood fired stove is dangerous. Even UL rated water heaters with proper thermostats and relief valves have been known to malfunction and blow the roof off of homes.

Hmmm now I'm more awake he needs an expansion tank in there too. Super heated water (over 212 f) flashes to steam if the pressure is suddenly released. Expands by volume 14,000 times the original volume so 10 gallons of water is roughly 12.5 cubic feet (check my guess) flashes to 175,000 cubic feet of steam. Your house goes ka boom. The simple (so long as it works) is to keep it as an open system. I hope he's adding a de-airation valve and make up water too for either a closed or open system.

Thanks for all the responses! Since Len had explained some of this to me, those questions and comments about water temperature, relief valves, gauges, etc... I figured for the sake of this thread, and anyone reading it, that I better address them.

So, I read your messages out loud to Len and asked him to explain(he doesn't go near my computer), and he said "Duh, this is basic physics, Lori. I am not going to set up a dangerous heating system." Okay, I must admit the idea of my roof blowing off wasn't appealing... Len laughed, telling me he knew what he was doing so no worries. But then, he did tell me that accidents occur with improperly set up systems. I took the time to get my 101 and have no concerns with his plans whatsoever now. All the proper heat sensors, gauges, relief valves, etc... will all be installed. As he does the job, I will post what he is using, pics of the steps involved, and final pics (with appropriate warnings). I do appreciate and understand the concern.

Yes, it is critical you know what you are doing when setting up a heating system like this (or any that includes hot water). Len's father is an Engineer, and he was a Millwright, is an Industrial Machinist & Welder. I guarantee you that Len's father, Larry (83 years young who has heated his home with a system similar to this for 50 years with zero incidents). and another local guy, Rod, will be looking at the system, too (Rod's heating system is radiant heat on both floors of his home).

Rose, the original set up to insure I am toasty (don't sleep well in a cold room, wish I could) utilizing our hot water tank and a circulated system (required valves, shut-off, etc...) is being set up first. The rest of it will follow :)

Good luck,nice project!

Bearfootfarm, turns out my DH knows a lot more than I was aware of regarding doing all this (we had a longer conversation about what he has done in the past---only married 5 years and the guy is 53, so a LOT of experience in things we haven't discussed unless it was relevant). There are two separate systems going in place and the worst thing that can possibly happen is the one between the Water Heater and the Wood Stove could get too hot, blow the overflow, and we'd have steam/water (an exterior set up). Any leaks? Under our home, not a big deal. With proper set up, there is nothing for me to worry about. To further rest any concern I might have, the Engineer (Len's father) and the Boilermaker (Tom, a good friend), have been told how Len is doing this. Both gave him the thumbs up. Len smiled earlier and said, "My goal is to keep you warm, Honey, not to blow us both up." No one to hold the beer around here since neither of us drink alcohol, LOL. Hey, seriously, now, it is very important to get creative with your abilities all you are handy, but always check and double check what you are doing. The potential for mistakes in doing any of this can be lethal ones, so I do understand the concern.

A side note here, this Thread was just to share an HT project, not to instruct or encourage any one to do the same thing. Thermal Syphon setups have been used since the early 1900s (our home isn't a 2-story home, so can't go that route). Larry, up the road, uses such a system. The wood stove is downstairs and since hot water rises (Thermal Syphon), there you go, and he has a circulating water-line that is sent to...you guessed it...a water heater. It has been set up properly and for many years, no problems ever. Larry is a retired Logger and 83 years young. Sharp as a tack, too. He is also in great shape & still working hard at his age. Len fixes Larry's heavy equipment. Tom, the retired Boilermaker, has set up similar systems with Radiators.

Len did a great job designing and building our wood stove (highly efficient, with proper valves, etc...), also a great job on our Industrial Log Splitter that cuts 2nd growth hardwood rounds vertically or horizontally. Len, SR, 76 yrs young (retired Engineer), has our Splitter at his place, has cut up/split (5) logs averaging 80 to 100 feet long, with a few 2nd growth, and were seasoned a few years. He was very impressed with our Splitter. My FIL is not easily impressed. Me? I am analytical and have to gain understanding to feel comfortable with a lot of this. Safety is always my concern.

Ross, good points/concerns! Since you raised those questions, I asked Len and he confirmed everything rated industrial and for the use he is intending.

Agmantoo, when I have more information and can confirm the setup with what Len is using, it will be more clearly understood. The backups and extra care my proficient very capable guy is including in this system will backup any failure in any other part of the system. The Wood Stove has apparently been forgotten in how it works. I haven't explained that, the Valves, or the way he will be regulating that temp, etc... I'll get to that, though, when I have the rest of the information. The first thing I am going to explain, is the set up between the Hot Water Tank and our Radiator (he didn't just sand blast it, he repaired/restored/and fully tested it, and then painted it). When that project is finished, I will then go over the 2nd part of this project. Right now, Len is buried with work on custom railings; booked for two months. He is trying to complete this project in between all that work since the weather is getting colder.

Below, you will see pics of the Radiator (snapped the picture while Len was in/out of our BR installing it) and the Thermostat for our BR. When this part of the project is finished, I'll post pics of the rest.
http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/RADIATOR.jpg
The temperature of the water circulating through this Radiator cannot exceed the maximum temperature of the Water Heater.
http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...ATFOROURBR.jpg
This is located on our master bedroom wall. No, I the temperature won't be set on 40 degrees...:) When he has completed the set up, we will be using our radiator this evening! I'll post how it works out. One never knows if a pipe connection might leak, etc...

We're all just trying to be helpful with some constructive ideas, its not really critisim. Having a skilled welder doing the job is a very very good idea! Just don't want to see it all end in tears. Hot water is dangerous stuff and a part of my trade in HVAC. BTW heat does not rise. Hot air (and water more slowly) rises; "heat" moves in all directions towards cold.

Hi Ross! I just corrected that to say, "hot water" which is what I meant to write as Larry's system is a closed Thermal Siphon one. I think it was good to get the ideas as it led me to ask Len a lot of questions and now have full understanding of what he is doing. On statements such as:
- this was in response to my statement about being assured by Len and not having any concerns.

I think that did question Len's abilities to do the work not just safely but properly. Len takes this all very seriously and understands fully the potential dangers. He is a Journeyman Industrial Machinist & WABO Certified Welder with over 30 years of experience, but this doesn't illustrate the full scope of what he can do. Some of what he does around here, like building my Garden Cabin, our Chicken House, even the Garden Beds, putting up fences...? He will be the first one to tell you that he is NOT a Carpenter, LOL, but everything is built square and it would take a LOT to knock anything down. I am more into the finish work than he is, and will be completing that work myself. He is not an Auto Mechanic by trade, but he does all our auto maintenance/repairs, rebuilds motors, and has done body work on them, too. Len fixes our propane appliances (camper, trailer, etc...) and has done so properly. He does all of our plumbing, wiring, logging, wood cutting/splitting, and the list goes on. I was the most impressed when I came into the shop and saw the diesel motor all torn apart and pieces all over the place (he is NOT a Diesel Mechanic). There, he was, with glasses on, reading the repair manual for his Diesel Motor. I asked him, rather skeptical, if he had ever repaired a diesel motor before. "No, that is why I am reading this manual, Lori," he replied both amused and in sarcasm. Later the next day, he came in, called me out, and fired up the truck. Even though I like to just blindly trust Len, I don't feel comfortable with the projects unless I understand them LOL!

one can always use a fill reservoir and an small float to keep full and not make a closed loop system, and keep it vented, and depending on how it was plumbed in the reservoir would not even get hot,

OK fair enough "That" I can "Fix" although I doubt Bearfoot meant any real harm.

Ross, you are sweet, but nothing to worry about here (before someone does something that results in a surprise explosion that ends my life, I hope I get to be the one to drink something first LOL). I wanted to make sure I didn't goof and not make it clear, Len doesn't rely on his own know-how which is important when doing projects like this. That isn't to say someone may not have a better idea or modification idea to what he is currently doing. If done wrong, this is dangerous! It wouldn't surprise me if Len's father doesn't think up a slick way to improve the whole set up.

I've had a hotwater convection furnace with a radiator in each room. I understand how convection works.
I've had a wood cook stove with a water casting in the firebox plumbed to a tank to store the hot water.

Both worked great, except......

I think your bedroom radiator will need more hot water. I think the surface area he's going to put in the stove will be too small. Water coils can make a fair amount of domestic hot water, but a radiator really needs a lot of hot water.

Different topic: I have a friend that wrapped his castiron stove with a hundred feet of copper pipe, wrapped against the outside of the fire box, inside the heat shield.

He was able to get a quart of hot water any time he wanted. Fill the washer in about 3 hours flat. Takes more time/fuel to raise the temp of water than we think.

haypoint- thanks for your concern, however, what you described is nothing like what we have. The Wood Stove Len designed and built, is a LARGE highly efficient one. The Heat Exchange he has also designed to install with the system he is building next. It will absolutely be sufficient to provide all the hot water we need (calculations were already made). Now the Heat Exchange pipe will drop down, run through an insulated pipe directly to the Hot Water Tank, which is then separately connected to the pipe leading to the Radiator. I am skipping going into all the pieces & parts at the moment. Larry's system is similar to ours in a few ways, but his Wood Stove is smaller and heats the entire two story home and provides all the hot water 4 adults can use! Both our setup and Larry's are different from the one you described. Larry has seen our Wood Stove and was rather impressed with it. I spoke to Len about our Wood Stove and hot water output. He patiently explained what we could expect from our Wood Stove. Then, he said, "If you are receiving some skepticism, that is understandable as none of them have my Wood Stove. They can only compare what they have experienced first-hand." Since Len has yet to build the 2nd system, I will address the 1st system now:

:dance: First System is DONE!!!:dance: The entire setup between the Water Heater and our bedroom Radiator is complete.

THE TEST: Len turned up the Thermostat, ran the Radiator for (5) minutes and our bedroom temperature went from the 50s, to 70 degrees! Since it wasn't that cold out, this wasn't a big deal. Now, when it gets cold, it will take longer for the Radiator to heat up, as it will be cold to begin with. There are no leaks, and no issues with his project. Tomorrow, he will be insulating the pipes for obvious reasons. Now, important to note there that the Radiator is also bigger than an average size you normally see in a bedroom. I have been in homes with them and they were usually 2/3 the size of the one we have. Also, we are only talking about 1 Radiator. It was completely unnecessary to put a Radiator in any other room. Our Wood Stove heats the entire 1,600 sq feet of our home (heatilator helps---built in by Len). The only cool room is our bedroom on the other end of our home. The reason why we went with this system is that we have a self-sustainable source of firewood (5 acres of forest we own). We don't have to really thin it as just cutting up the trees the wind knocks down takes care of what we use.

I'll post some more pics, when I can find the time over the next few days. These will show the first System & I will describe the parts used.

When the next System gets done, I will post it :) with all the details & pics.

haypoint, I was about to post something and re-read what you wrote. The Heat Exchange will be installed inside the Wood Stove (which is bigger than it appears in the pictures). When we use the Wood Stove, our entire home (except that back bedroom) gets 80 degrees real fast (even with low freezing temps outside). I don't know if that helps envision anything.

I was thinking about this, as I do about everything, LOL, and I don't think the issue will be one Radiator in most homes (with our situation), it would be the amount of hot water produced. Len did confirm it would be up for the job. The Radiator won't have to be used except for at night, since that room does receive air flow from the rest of our home. Of course, that is when I am not using the washer, no showers/baths, etc...

I figure it will take Len a week or possibly two to finish the next system (or Phase 2). I'll cover that here on this thread, also.

Looking forward t pictures. What was his delta T for the experiment? His PSI and FPM would be interesting too. From 50's to 70 in 5 minutes seems apretty quick! Has he made any provisions for thermal shock?

OK, the heat exchange is large. The hot water rises from the heat exchange ( or is there a pump for that too?) to the water heater. There is a pump and plumbing that takes the water from the water heater and circulates it to the radiator in your bedroom. The thermostat controls the pump.

How is your domestic hot water seperated from the bedroom radiator?

Am I understanding that in addition to the cold water intake and hot water pipe that goes to your hot water facet, you have extra pipes hooked to your domestic water heater, an in and an out from the wood stove's heat exchange, an in and out to the radiator. Is this correct or is there a separation of your drinking water and radiator water? Are we talking about a single water heater?

When the woodstove heat exchanger continues to heat water and the heated water continues to rise (or pump continues to circulate it) into the water heater tank, what do you do when it reaches the boiling point? I understand that the pressure valve will blow open, but is there a system designed to prevent this?

I'm not being critical. I just want to better understand this system.

Ross- I will cover that with Len when he is available. He wakes up with his pants on fire, so to speak, and goes straight to work. Right now, juggling jobs. The Radiator wasn't cold, but already had water in it. We just had to wait until the Water Heater had recovered to test it last evening. I would expect that since the water in the Radiator wasn't cold, the room not that cold, that it was a shorter time for the room to heat, based on those factors, too. I could touch it, but not keep my hand on it (too hot). The Water Heater will regulate the temperature of the water circulating through that closed system, based on its maximum temperature. I'll post that info, too.

haypoint, don't think your critical, just interested with legitimate concerns. This will help me insure I give the right info, too.

Our current setup is between a Propane Water Heater and one Radiator. Right now, Propane heats the water to a set degree and runs through a separate pipe straight to the Radiator (Len installed There is a Thermostat in our bedroom for the Radiator. Using the Propane to heat the water is temporary. This set up worked beautifully. Now for what WILL happen, next :)

The Wood Stove itself is large. The Heat Exchange hasn't been built, yet. That is the next System Len will build. He will install the Heat Exchange inside the Wood Stove, run the hot water down through the floor, insulated pipe, and this hot water will enter the Hot Water Heater. Yes, it will be a closed system, have all the safety features on it, with backup (details to follow). There is an air intake valve on our Wood Stove, which draws its air from beneath the floor. Len had put pipes running through the Wood Stove, and there is an airtight space inside the left of the Wood Stove. Inside this airspace, the pipes will be installed. Those details will follow when my busy DH gets back on the project. The concern about the Water Heater. The water entering that tank will be a set temperature range. Len has confirmed that he will installing what is necessary to keep the temperature from exceeding what would blow the Pressure Valve. Now, what he confirmed is that the worst thing that could happen, with all he will have in place, is that complete failure of everything? The Pressure Valve would blow open. So, he has given careful consideration from how hot the Wood Stove will get, how much intake is required, and there will be gauges, valves, etc... I just don't know all the parts until he starts building it.

For safety, which is most important, I won't be posting how & describe the next system in any great detail until after he has built and completely tested it.

I know it sounds a little critical now and then but I just gotta ask. Was that a new rad meant for potable water? If not do not drink the hot water from your proane fired tank! Some boilers used toxic additives to prevent rust out. Some rads will leach out minerals into fresh water (and will rust out quickly) so it really has to be clean new and meant for potable water! Same goes for the pump. A boiler circ pump is cast a potable water one is stainless or bronze. You know we don't need minute by minute updates and I wouldn't doubt he's gonna have to re-engineer a few things. Good thinking on waiting until it works! PS You know we're here with info to help out too.

Ross, thank you so much for your concern. No, we never drink hot water that comes through our faucets. I don't mind answering questions, but that non-stop man is going non-stop as I type...LOL. He is insulating the pipes shortly, and then back on his jobs. Now he is up to four railing jobs, one is a large one for an incredible view home, and another job for something else came in this morning (capping off and closing up gaps on a wood stove for a lady converting to a propane stove). Some allergy issue for the poor gal. I appreciate the continued input and will be back on later to answer some questions about the current setup (when I can get some air-time...LOL).

It has now been two days and the Radiator is working great! No problems at all.

I told Len that I was very pleased the set up worked so well. He said, "Of course it does, because I DID IT. It wasn't easy climbing around under there, either." Of course, I'll skip some of the complaining...turns out the crawlspace term itself is an understatement under our home. He had to squeeze himself through some of the areas to do this. He did tell me I would be very happy when I saw how his entire system would work, but wasn't looking forward to going back under there.

Len spent the entire day working on bids, so I still didn't get to go over those questions, but intend to for the answers. Then, I'll post more pics & details.

Your first step is like a system I've seen locally. The owner/builder liked the even heat you get from a hot water boiler/radiator setup. He priced hot water boilers, checked out the permits needed, trrouble getting it permitted if you do it yourself, etc.

He just put in two gas water heaters and hooked them up just like it was a boiler. There are not any extra inspections, permits, etc for a water heater. Plus they are a fraction of the cost of a boiler. The newer water heaters have a high efficiency, lose very littly of the heat produced.

I think his original plan was for a home built wood fired boiler failed due to insurance issues.

Yes, we have an efficient newer Propane Water Heater. With only one Radiator, it has worked beautifully. Permitting? Oh, yes, always the headache, but fortunately some HTer's don't have to worry about that. For them, safety & efficiency are the two most important issues. If insurance comes in, that is also a consideration. These are good points to bring up, too- thanks Haypoint!

Phase2- when Len can find the time, he will be carefully planning, based on every single factor, how to best construct the Heat Exchange. He has already made numerous calculations. Since we have a big highly efficient Wood Stove, he can actually install a rather sizable Heat Exchange. When he did the original design, he factored in the future installation. This wasn't an afterthought, fortunately.

Locally, exterior boilers/heating systems are being used and are licensed/permitted/approved. As far as I know, these are required to be approved, not home-built boilers. There are always exceptions based on licensing/certifications. For example, if DH wants to build an outdoor Boiler System, he would have to do the research to duplicate a currently licensed set-up. It could be required he get a special license. Then, he would have to meet that requirement.

A side note here. With over 25 years of Industrial Welding experience, Len was required to get WABO Certified by WA State to do structural welding. He has kept up that certification for 7 years now. Now it doesn't matter how good of a Welder you are here, in WA State. If you build brackets used for structural support, you have to be WABO Certified. It is hard to pass those tests, too. However, here he is allowed to do electrical and plumbing work on our own home, and just has to pass inspections.

I just lit a fire in our wood stove, came on for a few minutes before I go out to feed the chickens, rabbits, and gather eggs (do that twice/day)...

Rose, thanks. It was sort of interesting how it all happened, too. Len was over at a buddy's house and was given that old radiator (exterior was rusty). I should have taken before & after shots. As I wrote above, he tested it/repaired it/sandblasted & painted it. As he is working on the Radiator, he tells me what it is for and what he will do with it. This happens sometimes :) The next surprise came when he finished painting it and was talking about what he was going to do next. Yes, having work like this done can be cost-prohibitive and I don't take that for granted, trust me.

It has been fifteen days and the Radiator system is efficient, no leaks, and no problems. DH is too busy to work on any more of this.

Well so long as its running off the gas water heater and you're not drinking the water you'll have a safe effective way of heating an awkward room (heating wise)

I am pleased right now and the rest of DH's project can wait. Too many other pans on the fire...

It has been a full month since the Radiator was set up and happy to report no problems with it at all. DH was especially pleased there were no leaks as crawling around under there is no fun.

Pleased to report DH has been working steadily, and hard to take one day a week to work on the home projects. Our porch is almost done and then the Greenhouse is next (this 1st one is a kit, so faster project). I think he will then focus on Phase2.

Next week, Phase2 begins. It will probably take DH a week to set up the system. Once the system is complete, I will post it here with Pics.

LorieChristie,

Thanks for the updates!!!!! What I really appreciate is the detail that you have shared with us. I have learned alot!!!!!

Please keep us posted!!!!!!!!

Clovis- Glad it has been interesting :) Paying work & the holidays got in the way of Phase2... DH is finishing up the latest job and then may have the time to devote to this project. The other projects include the last finishing touches on my porch (flooring, primarily) & setting up my greenhouse. The latter project is being installed on a very solid foundation (ground currently frozen...). That may take a backseat until the ground can be worked.

See the article in the January/February, 2010, Countryside edition, pg 37, entitled, "Free Hot Water From Your Wood Cookstove." This also includes using a Wood Stove. You will see a diagram very similar to the system DH is building on pg 38. His will have an extra pressure relief valve and also a temperature relief gauge. Of course, I will post the information & pictures when he finishes/tests it thoroughly.

Did anyone else read this article? If so, what did you think?

Not to get off topic, but that wood stove is beautiful. I would pay good money for a set of plans for that thing.

Thanks for that compliment & it put a grin on DH's face! I had my doubts when I saw it coming together...resembled a spaceship at first LOL! His goal was to build a highly efficient wood stove (it is), but also wanted me to like the looks of it. What appears to be stainless steel is actually steel that has been nickel plated (DH did that for me). There are no plans as DH built/modified it as he went. He doesn't draw his projects, for some reason. If you are interested in more info, I can send you pictures with more detail and dimensions. DH doesn't care if anyone copies it, but liability prevents him from offering plans for wood stoves. He has been asked locally to build a few, but can't yet... We have discussed him getting some designs UL listed and HUD approved, but that is another process we haven't had time to pursue.

The wood stove was built with a sealed airtight chamber (inside the left of it). There are seven heavy pipes installed leading from that, inside the firebox (top and upper back of it). Air is pumped via the left leg into this sealed chamber and out through those pipes (exiting around the top/back of the circular door on the right side). The right leg provides the air intake & those levers you see adjust that intake (from under the floor). Maximum firewood length is 24 inches long. I prefer using slightly shorter (22 inches).

On the process going on, it has been very interesting to me. I am very busy, but have taken more time to gain understanding of Phase2 as he is building it. He left a short while ago for Tacoma to drop off scrap steel and pick up the stainless steel pipe he needs in order to build the heat exchange unit to install inside our wood stove. With a lull in business, he is taking advantage of that time to complete this project.

We have discussed the work week M-F with S for home projects and Sunday off. Getting him to shut down and rest is a challenge!

For the folks following this thread & anyone else who may be interested, here is the booklet we ordered from Lehman's with the internet link:

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...2010_00001.jpg

Lehman's sells this for $9.95:

http://www.lehmans.com/store/catalog?Args=

I would love to see some dimensions and photos. I am merely a union ironworker and as your husband knows not quite as precise as a machinist, but i might be able to give it a shot.

I have updated my calendar tomorrow to include photographing & measure the wood stove. I'll PM you.

I didn't get everything done, but did get out to the Shop to take a few pics:

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...BALEIGHDIE.jpg

Here you see the Baleigh die that came with the Bender. DH needed to bend the tubing for the heat exchange, so he built a smaller die to fit that size (saved us $300). See next two pics:

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t.../MAKINGDIE.jpg

Here, you can see the die being built. It began as a solid piece of steel.

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...istie1/DIE.jpg

Here it is, almost completed.

Wow more than a little crafty ain't he!! :)