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  #21  
Old 05/01/09, 03:48 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 557
Testing her out today, after two oil/filter changes, her light still comes on.
We tried the highway test (Beeman's post). She does come on at higher rpms but doesn't go off until turned off. Light will also come on after engine is warmed up well. Light won't come on after being shut off until engine is good and warm or I put some power into her (hwy, gun it, etc).
So that with other days testing seems there isn't much pattern. Or at least not one I see. o.O
She has no oil leak now that I can see, so guess it was a bad filter. I'm guessing she still burns oil. Old engine and all.

She is dropping steering fluid bad.

When it rains.... it seems to pour for this poor old car.
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  #22  
Old 05/02/09, 07:56 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeria View Post
Testing her out today, after two oil/filter changes, her light still comes on.
We tried the highway test (Beeman's post). She does come on at higher rpms but doesn't go off until turned off. Light will also come on after engine is warmed up well. Light won't come on after being shut off until engine is good and warm or I put some power into her (hwy, gun it, etc).
So that with other days testing seems there isn't much pattern. Or at least not one I see. o.O
She has no oil leak now that I can see, so guess it was a bad filter. I'm guessing she still burns oil. Old engine and all.

She is dropping steering fluid bad.

When it rains.... it seems to pour for this poor old car.


Good to know my memory still works. I've seen a lot of these over 30+ years and for some reason they're all Fords. Run the engine until hot and change the oil again, might take a couple of times. This will help remove the loose sludge. Many people change the oil cold which isn't good as it doesn't get the dirt or loose sludge out. The filter that clogs is the screen on the bottom of the oil pump in the oil pan. Other choice is to remove the pan and clean it out and change the screen.
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Last edited by Beeman; 05/02/09 at 08:01 AM.
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  #23  
Old 05/02/09, 03:09 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 8,124
If i had the pan off i'd change the oil pump too.
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  #24  
Old 05/04/09, 06:37 AM
seagullplayer's Avatar  
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 730
That is another reason those quick change joints are no good, they just vacume it out from the dipstick, it lets almost no sludge out...

If you do change it again, leave the drain plug out for a while, don't be in a hurry. Like others have said, make sure engine is hot/warm when you change it.

For my high milage engines I use 20W50...

Might try a can of that engine cleaner, not the outside foam type, but a bottle you put in, follow the directions, it might say to run it x miles before a change.
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  #25  
Old 05/04/09, 10:43 AM
HermitJohn's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
Quote:
Originally Posted by seagullplayer View Post
Might try a can of that engine cleaner, not the outside foam type, but a bottle you put in, follow the directions, it might say to run it x miles before a change.
Shooting dice with the engine flush stuff. Course if its to point you have nothing to lose, stick quart ATF replacing quart oil. That stuff is very high detergent and also pretty good lube. Change oil/filter completely after 50 miles.

People used to do kerosene flush but shoot, be prepared to put in new bearings if you do that. The proprietary stuff on market is kinda somewhere between kerosene and ATF. Use it only when you have nothing left to lose.

If engine has good compression worth doing it right and doing whatever takes to get oil pan off and check for sludge and clogged pickup screen.
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