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  #21  
Old 12/15/07, 04:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Metro east St Louis Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texican
I've got a 97 Ford 7.3L diesel. It was bought in the south, and it doesn't have one of the heater blocks (120 ac) like most northern diesels do. I rarely have problems down here in Texas, as it doesn't get down to freezing that often. When it does get cold, I have to fiddle a few minutes with the glow plugs, turning the switch on and off, to get her cranked.

Last winter, I made a trip to the Philly area, and on the way home, I had a couple of interesting mornings when the temp was in the teens... it took forever to crank.

What can a fella do, when you're in the bitter cold, and there's either no heater block installed, or no ac for the heater block?

If this had happened up in elk camp in the Rockies, I'd'a probably got a camp stove and fired it up under the engine for a while.
Run a syn blend of oil in the engine. Like this http://www.schaefferoil.com/

The 9000 is fine in -20 in North Dakota when I get out of the hotel room . I just hit the key. NO LAG. The engine dose its supper cold weather chink and clank but smooths right out fast. In seconds. If your lub is holding your engine back in starting it is holding it back going down the road.

I would ask over hear. These folks can help.

http://www.truckersoilforum.com/forums/

That or go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
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  #22  
Old 12/21/07, 07:39 PM
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Location: Carthage, Texas
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Thanks everyone... I'll get some synthetic oil before making another winter trip... and I'll check out the other forum, daytrader...
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  #23  
Old 12/22/07, 09:12 AM
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It is a great site. Also www.bobistheoilguy.com is great!
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  #24  
Old 12/28/07, 09:48 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 97
You can buy a circulating heater that you install in the heater hose circuit on any vehicle or engine. They work the best. They circulate through the radiator and engine block and head, the added benefit is your vehicle has instant heat out of the heater to warm you up. You should be able to order one at any auto parts store or farm equipment dealers. They come with installation instructions.
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  #25  
Old 01/14/08, 04:07 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 486
It sounds to me like one or more glow plugs are shot...you can check them with a simple ohm meter, if they show open (infinite) resistance, they need replacing.

Our 1997 chevrolet turbo diesel starts reliably all winter, sitting outside, even when it hasn't been run for a couple weeks, and it isn't plugged in. Just turn it on, wait for the wait light to go out, and off it goes....yes, I know, that's a chevy, yours is a ford, etc...but the principle is the same..if the glow plugs are working, and you have enough battery to turn it over reasonably well, it should start.
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  #26  
Old 01/20/08, 08:41 PM
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Location: Jones Co, Texas
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Also, be sure your starter is spinning at its fastest. I have a 92 F250, with the international motor, and I can start (now that I have a new starter) with one cycle of the glow plugs when the temps are in the 20s. Before I replaced the starter I had to cycle the glowplugs several times. The start spun pretty fast, but just not quite enough.
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  #27  
Old 01/21/08, 12:34 PM
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Location: Carthage, Texas
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If I can ever corral my BIL (a mechanic) I'm going to have him download the engine schematics from work, so I can test the glow plugs... (haven't ever dealt with glow plugs, so I'm not familiar with where they're located) I've got a two year old starter (my third one ), and a fresh oil change. It's taking about ten cycles of on/off with the key, to get her to crank... and it's only in the high 20's or low 30's here... Of course, our winter will probably be over in a few weeks.
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  #28  
Old 01/21/08, 05:01 PM
 
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are SURE it does not have a heater? i drove my 97 through one winter with out heat.. one day while changing the oil filter i saw the cord hanked and tucked up in the c of the frame. my 97 came out of texas.

the crank engine light IS out of syc with the glowplug off current function....i can look at the fuel gauge and see the needle fluctuate when current is truely cut off to the glowplugs.

i use a hairdryer tucked in the air filter snout on mornings that i forgot to plug in the truck...

i use a timer to turn on the heater about 2.5 hours before i have to crank the engine....saves a bunch on electricity.

Last edited by ace admirer; 01/21/08 at 05:09 PM.
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  #29  
Old 01/21/08, 07:36 PM
 
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My 7.3 is doing well with the glow plugs. I give it two times for the light to go out before cranking and it helps. If everything else fails you can always give it a light shot of starting fluid though the filter. I used to give my old Cummins a shot right into the intake via a bolt that I would remove. One revolution and she would fire right up even in the coldest of days. Careful with that fluid-it robs all the lube from the walls quickly, wc
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  #30  
Old 01/22/08, 10:11 AM
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I have learned something this winter with my 97 f250 diesel.

If I keep the battery charger on it, the starter turns the engine over much faster, and the engine starts easier.
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  #31  
Old 02/11/08, 12:50 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 3,567
I don't know how he would feel about a "synth blend", but an oilfield mechanic told me a diesel engine Needs FRICTION in the cylinders to operate properly, and to never use synthetic oil.

Rick

Quote:
Originally Posted by daytrader
Run a syn blend of oil in the engine. Like this http://www.schaefferoil.com/

The 9000 is fine in -20 in North Dakota when I get out of the hotel room . I just hit the key. NO LAG. The engine dose its supper cold weather chink and clank but smooths right out fast. In seconds. If your lub is holding your engine back in starting it is holding it back going down the road.

I would ask over hear. These folks can help.

http://www.truckersoilforum.com/forums/

That or go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
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  #32  
Old 02/11/08, 04:34 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,855
needing friction is a new one to me, needing sealing i can see
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  #33  
Old 02/14/08, 03:45 PM
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Max
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Near Traverse City Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gideon
My 7.3 is doing well with the glow plugs. I give it two times for the light to go out before cranking and it helps. If everything else fails you can always give it a light shot of starting fluid though the filter. I used to give my old Cummins a shot right into the intake via a bolt that I would remove. One revolution and she would fire right up even in the coldest of days. Careful with that fluid-it robs all the lube from the walls quickly, wc
I have heard that using starter fluid on engines that have glow pugs can cause a fire, or an explosion. Evidently you have had good uck with it, but I think it would make me a little nervouse.
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  #34  
Old 02/16/08, 08:23 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North America
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganfarmer
I have heard that using starter fluid on engines that have glow pugs can cause a fire, or an explosion. Evidently you have had good uck with it, but I think it would make me a little nervouse.
Starting fluid should be of the last resort for many reasons. Most of them can get real expensive in the blink of an eye.
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  #35  
Old 02/20/08, 08:50 PM
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Location: Carthage, Texas
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Luckily, winter's been over for a few weeks here already... it's been t-shirt and shorts weather this week... Unless we make a run up into the still cold parts of the country, I've got some time till next winter to get 'er fixed up.
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