DIY plumbing sites on the web?

First, you have to match the toilet to the drain/sewer pipe size. If you get an older toilet that flushes several gallons each time, that'll work well for 4" pipe. If you get a new low flush toilet, you'll need 3" pipe to the lagoon. The lower volume of water carries waste better in a smaller pipe. If the pipe is too large and the water volume is low, the waste might drag on the pipe and build up, leading to a back up at some point. Especially when overall length of run is long. Try to match the device to the line size.

Once you do that, buy a matching closet flange, a long radius 1/4 bend (90 degree elbow) a clean out, a tee for a vent (1.5 or 2" is fine), a length of vent pipe, couplings for the main run and primer/glue. Don't forget a wax ring to seal the toilet to the flange.

Now, mark the center of the flange diameter 12" from the wall and cut a round hole. Drop in the flange and screw it to the floor. From underneath, glue in a tail piece between it and the 1/4 bend. A little longer, say a 12" piece, will give the flush some velocity before it sweeps into the bend, and the waste will travel better. From there, glue a piece to get past the house. Glue the tee there for the vent and make sure you can screw the vent piece somewhere to the outside of the house. Take careful measurements. Add another piece to the run and glue on the cleanout. Glue an insert-type female adapter to the top of the cleanout and screw in a threaded plug. You don't want critters in the sewer line. Continue the run with a fall of between 1/8" to 1/4" towards the lagoon. Glue couplings between pipe sections.

One thing to consider is the fall of the ground to the lagoon. If the fall of the pipe is too steep, the water may outrun the waste and you'll have problems sooner or later. Stick with the prescribed rate of fall and when it's not possible to maintain that, drop the pipe with a couple of 1/8 bends (45 degree elbows) to get the line back close to the fall of the ground.

That should complete an improvised sewer and it will work properly.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/labmissi...804191728944/0

you have to sign up to yahoo to download a good sized pic of the floorplan

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...n/scan0005.jpg

I just purchased 2 plumbing cd guides on ebay. The seller was All-things-on-cd.
Item 320237937904

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php

normally a good and friendly site, some will bash one with the code issue, I am not anti code as most is for your own safety and for the ease of maintenance of the system and keeping it working.

but even a general pluming book from a place like home depot, or similar should give you enough guide,

use sweeps instead of 90 on the drain so a cleaning snake can maneuver the bends easily,

and put in clean outs so one can snake it if it is ever needed, there should be one at least Evey 100' on the main line,

Good luck with the project,

HomeTips web site has some good short articles about installation and maintenance for just about anything in the house. And there are pictures. That is real important for me.

http://www.hometips.com/how_plumbing_systems.html

I was able to wire and plumb a propane water heater, sink, shower, toilet, washer and dryer with no previous experience. And by the way, you do not have to use a P-trap for a toilet since it is built into the toilet. And make sure that your plumbing vent stack has a screen over the top so critters can't get in. Mice got into my cabin from the sink. Took care of that though.............The critters know that we are there only on weekends.

http://www.librum.us has the Audel's set, free download.

Sarah

As a builder, I have done plumbing installations for the last 20 years or so. As a builder that is in no mood to deal with inspectors (who seem to have an uncanny ability to "interpret" the latest IRC codes in some pretty strange ways), I needed some good info. to rely on. Good information does NOT mean anything you hear from anybody at a supply house or big box store, anything from other tradesmen, and even some things you read in DIY books. The head of a local inspection agency recommended the "code check" series of books. They are spiral bound with lots of illustrations and easy to understand info. They can clearly explain the correct way to size and install any residential plumbing. They are also available cheap on Amazon. I got several used ones for about $6 each. Good luck.

Been doing the supply plumbing on my place, recently hired a few plumber friends to help with the waste/vent lines (money well spent, in my opinion)... heres a few things I learned....

when soldering copper, heat the joint or fitting only, not the pipe itself. Heat will flow to the pipe on its own. This way you dont overheat the pipe and burn off your flux. Wipe off the excess solder with a damp rag immediately after sweating it, while the solder is still liquid, this gives a better joint, with less chance of corrosion or leaking later on.
Use as large of diameter of pipe as you can afford, especially for long distance runs. There is much less pressure loss on 3/4 pipe than 1/2".
Use the correct valve in the correct place. Gate and ball-type valves have much less resistance to flow than the stop valves. Use gate or ball valves for main shutoff, or anywhere in the main line where you dont want pressure loss, and stop valves anywhere you anticipate having to operate the valve many times. (I made the mistake of using stop valves for my shower shutoffs, then read about the pressure loss and replaced them with gate valves) .
When you think you are all finished, get an air-chuck and an adaptor and hook an air compressor up to the system and pressure test your connections with about 55psi of air. I got in a rush the first time and checked my connections with water... big mistake, and big mess. Use air, its much easier to clean up!
Now, does anyone have any advice on how to run gas lines?? Thats my next step...

ok then how about it?

any gas guys out there?

Kenji-
Did you ever get your plumbing project completed?
Clove

I do not know where you are or the codes in your area, but grab a copy of CodeCheck at your next run to a Home Depot or Lowes. About $20. You want two. The building one and the plumbing one. I keep them onhand here at the Librum, and I am always having master levels coming in to check them, despite the fact we have all the actual codes too. If memory serves, they are located at codecheck.com. BTW: Avoid the Electrical #5, errors and is being revised/corrected.

Sarah