Brakes shaking like crazy!

skruzich · #21 10/29/06, 06:05 PM

I have abs on my blazer and you don't go c clamping them back in. You screw them back in. And yes opening the bleeder fitting is by far the best way to do it without damaging the abs unit.

Now that i use silicone brake fluid, at 7 bucks a bottle and it takes about 2 bottles to do a complete brakeflui d change, I don't have to replace that. It doesn't absorb water like the DOT3 fluid. Well worth it though in keeping your lines and calipers rust free on the insides.

Master cylendars need to be checked about every two or three brake changes. IF you don't, you could be replacing not only the master cylendar but also the booster after it leaks fluid into the booster and eats up that diaphram! Not cheap!!!

mightybooboo · #22 10/30/06, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiogacounty

Don't forget that in many cases it's now possible to do a lot of expensive damage to the ABS system if you just grab a C-clamp and compress the pistons back into the calipers. Always take a moment to open the bleeder and expel the excess fluid out that way, instead of forcing it backwards into the abs controller. This can be one heck of an expensive mistake to make. Remember the good ole' days when your really had to be a knothead to screw up something as simple as brakes?

I didnt know that,the only ABS part I saw was a thing that measures rotor revolutions.I just screwed em back in with the caliper tool set.I will take that advice and use the bleeder screw method next time.Im due anytime for another brake job.They should start squeaking soon.Real happy with this set,got about 50,000 miles on them.Got the metallic pads at Carquest,so I would say they are a good source,dont remember what brand they were.They also claim they keep your alloy wheels cleaner,well thats BS,mine get dirty dirty dirty,I saw no improvement on that claim.

So,just how does the ABS system actually work,beyond the speed sensor part?I get what it does,just not how it does it.

BooBoo

paulaswolfpack · #23 10/30/06, 07:24 PM

Thanks guys for all the info,paula

foxtrapper · #24 10/31/06, 09:47 AM

Tie rod ends, strut rod bushings, even ball joints can cause severe shaking when applying the brakes.

You can roughly distinguish a warped or hardened rotor from worn front end by how it shakes. If the brake pedal does the shaking, it's a brake issue. If the steering wheel does the shaking, it's the front suspension.