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Old 02/25/13, 12:55 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 581
Having issues with aggressive kits

For those of you that have used rabbit tractors or colony breeding situations, hopefully you can offer me some advice. We have been raising meat rabbits for a several years now. First, I'll explain our setup:

We have a large, fenced rabbit yard that we had originally intended for raising colony-style rabbits. We fenced most of the ground to prevent burrowing out, created simulated tunnels and nest boxes that we buried, and created what we call the "community house" with lounging platforms, access to tunnels, and feeders. You can see the actual yard design here: http://redgatefarm.wordpress.com/201.../the-hare-pen/

In addition, we also have a quad hutch on standby, with cage space running about 24"x36" plus the nest box on the end. You can see design here: http://redgatefarm.wordpress.com/201...-bunny-condos/

Our current set up is our favorite buck, an American Chinchilla who runs free most of the time in the fenced-yard colony set-up (a roughly 20x25 foot yard). He is by far our sweetest, most gentle and friendly rabbit. He meets you at the gate, loves to be petted, etc. He is going on 4 years old now. He is also our "babysitter" for newly weaned kits. We have a second buck who mostly stays in one of the cages, as he is quite aggressive toward our AmChin buck. A couple times a month, we put the AmChin buck in a cage for the day, and let the other one out to play.

We have tried several different methods over the years, but currently, our does are bred to the buck of our choice. After a day or two, we turn the does loose to play in the yard until about 4 days before they are due to kindle. At that point, we put them back in a cage with a nest box, where they deliver and raise their kits. At weaning time (around 6-7 weeks), we typically re-breed the doe, then turn her loose in the yard again to start the process over. We also turn the weaned babies out in the yard around 8 weeks, where they get tons of romping and playtime. We usually have big litters (7-12), so I like giving them the extra space to play while we grow them. Our AmChin buck is a big teddy bear, and has never threatened to harm a fly. In fact, on cold nights, he is the first to welcome and cuddle up to the young kits to keep them warm. He shows them where to find the feed and water, and they mimic what he does.

That all being said, the biggest problem we have is when the new, male kits hit about 10 weeks old (we butcher around 12 weeks). In every litter, we seem to have an aggressive one or two who begin attacking the AmChin buck. He won't fight back, but just runs away, which often leaves his little hind end full of tiny bites. The first sign of it happening is the bits of his uniquely gray hair around the pen. When possible, we try to figure out who the culprit is, and put him in a cage. That isn't always possible though. If it gets bad, we are forced to catch all kits, separate does and bucks, and put all bucks in a cage. This sometimes worsens the problem though, as the aggressive male will begin attacking his litter mates.

Seems like a minor problem, but any suggestions for handling this in the future? Butchering a single, difficult rabbit is not really an option on a regular basis (though we have done it). We prefer to butcher in batches. Our future plans are to eliminate the colony set-up and hopefully the cages altogether, and move more toward the pastured rabbit-tractor set-up. I am planning to put several does in one tractor (I did this very successfully in the past), and the weaned litters in a separate tractor. I fear we may have similiar issues with the aggressive males, however, so I am curious what your experiences have been? I am still trying to figure out what to do with our other aggressive breeding buck. He is fine with does, a great breeder, throws incredible color, but fights like the dickens with other bucks! I really hate to build separate tractors for each buck. What a pain! Finally, there is always the option to keep the does/young kits and bucks in cages, and only raise the growing kits on pasture in the tractors. I am open to all ideas. It's always fun to try new things to keep our buns happy and healthy!! Thanks in advance!
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Old 02/25/13, 03:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minnesota
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Continue to cull the biters...
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Old 02/25/13, 05:02 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,847
Butchering only one is something easy to get into doing and it might be something you want to lean towards or get alot more cages. If I grab a rabbit I can dress it in less than 5 minutes and it takes my wife less than 5 minutes to look it over/clean, cut into fry pieces(if a fryer), bag and put it in the freezer. Even if she is not home I put it in a bowl of water and set it in the fridge till she gets home(her eyes are better than mine so she wants to look them over and bag).

Last edited by Fire-Man; 02/25/13 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 02/25/13, 06:21 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hoosier transplant to cheese country
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At 10 weeks they are hitting pre-puberty. Just like humans, animals mature at different rates and have different personalities. Your chin is an intact male and they are challenging him. All you can do is pull and cage any youngin that is causing a problem as soon as there is a problem.

Interesting set up by the way. Looks like you put alot of work into it. How do you combat flooding during rainy weather?
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Old 02/25/13, 07:51 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
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You only keep one buck in a colony, and cull the other males. I have never had any good experiences with more than one male. If you happen to come up with a dominant or aggressive female, immediately eat her too. That doesn't usually happen though if they are raised with their Mama in the colony.
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Old 02/26/13, 06:24 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Breton Island. ( NS, Canada)
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I agree with above I had to cull an aggressive doe. Unfortunetly she was probably defending a nest of kits that I didn't find til much later in the colony pen. I'm glad I went to hutches at least I don't have nasty surprises like that. I probably would have culled her anyway though she was small and was always mean to the poor buck even when he was minding his own business. I will add she was not raised on commercial feed and was very tasty and not too touch even at 16 weeks.
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Old 02/26/13, 09:09 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 581
Thanks for the tips. I knew it was the kits coming of age and testing their dominance. We may try to get into harvesting them at an earlier age, as we have been trying to work their sizes up a bit more toward meat-size (we started with crossbreeds).

In regards to our set-up, here is CO, flooding isn't really a problem. As a precaution, the bottom of the tunnels and nest boxes is all made of hardware cloth so it will drain if water does get in, and the nest boxes have a good layer of gravel under the wire to increase drainage. Hope that makes sense. If I design another yard though, I will do several things differently.
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Old 02/26/13, 09:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oxford, Ark
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I'd start tracking what does the aggressive kits came from. Yeah, puberty and all, but not every animal starts fighting. If you have a doe who's sons are never the troublemakers, I'd make it a point to keep replacement does from her.
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Old 02/26/13, 01:15 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 11,248
I think Otter's suggestion is a good one for the long term. Until you sort out a permanent solution, I suggest you partition the yard and put the older fryers in one part and your buck and younger ones in the other.
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