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  #1  
Old 02/29/08, 10:38 AM
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Ear mites/ivermectin

I seem to have a recurring problem with ear mites. No matter how I clean, no matter how much oil I use in the ears, the dumb things just keep coming back. I even clean the ears in another area, and hate to be gross, but my chickens eat what I clean from the rabbits ears.

Anyway, moving right along, I read on a few websites to give a shot of ivermectin to the rabbits 3 times, once every 2 weeks, and it will rid them of the mites.

I was wondering if anyone had tried this and what your results were?

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Old 02/29/08, 10:43 AM
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I do not raise rabbits so this info may not be any good BUT I use Vet RX for earmites in my dogs and goats. Just warm it a little and put a few drops in. It seems to give instant relief and does get rid of them. You should be able to find Vet RX at any pet or farm store.

Hope this helps.

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  #3  
Old 02/29/08, 12:51 PM
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I keep Ivermec paste for horses on hand for the occasional case of wool mites. I've purchased 2 rabbits in the past year that developed ear mites, and both times, I took a Q-tip and wiped a bit of the Ivermec paste into the ear. Both times, it cleared up the mites, and they did not re-occur.

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Old 02/29/08, 01:12 PM
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Don't know about bunnies, but I dab a bit of ivermectin based dewormer in the cats' ears for mites.

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  #5  
Old 02/29/08, 01:20 PM
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I thought it was POISON to animals BUT horses. I do not recommend doing this,,, BUT,,, I have cured systemic mange in dogs with the horse stuff just don't use very much & very seldome

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  #6  
Old 02/29/08, 01:22 PM
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You can use the ivermectin paste as a lotion directly on the skin--or you can inject, sub-Q, the proper dosage. Now-- look at it this way-- putting the ivermection directly on the mite, reduces the amount of drug you are getting into and on the animal-- and a tube of horse wormer is a LOT less expensive than a bottle of the injectable.
Also-- I found that once you stick a bun with a needle, the second try-- they tense up-- the skin itself seems to draw itself tighter!!! And you do NOT want to risk injecting Ivermectin into the bloodstream or into a muscle-- it REALLY stings, too!

the accepted dosages for skin mites of any type is generally twice that of the dosage for intestinal worms, times 3 doses. ( when given orally or sub-Q)

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  #7  
Old 02/29/08, 01:57 PM
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We use ivermectin for all our critters, dogs, cats, goats rabbits.
It doesn't matter if you give it orally or on the skin, the drug still is absorbed by the body and it does kill everything thats sucks the animals blood....lice, fleas, ear mites, etc.
It also kills many of the intestinal parasites.

The only thing with rabbits is dose. I just give them a dab of paste, a tiny dab.
I never used it in the ears because the body will absorb the drug and rubbing paste all over could result in to much of the drug. Personally I would use some mineral oil to knock down the population in the ears and then a dab of invermectin orally for my follow up.

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  #8  
Old 02/29/08, 02:25 PM
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well

I already have a bottle of ivermectin for my goats for worming, so when I saw that I thought, hmmmm.

Okay, this is the pour on type. How much orally would you use? Right now I have 89 rabbits, (did have 150). We are getting rid of everything except just enough to feed us as we are just not selling much anymore, so we're not going to mess with it. Anyway, won't be needing to treat all 89 of these, but how much ivermectin oral would you give per rabbit? I only saw the subcutaneous dose and I really don't want to do injections if I can keep from it. I would prefer doing the oral, but I do want to make sure it is working.

I just hate these ear mites. I did a friend a favor and bought rabbits. I even had them in quarantine for a couple of weeks and sure enough, my friend did me a favor. In his behalf, they say it takes months sometimes for ear mites to show up but it can certainly wreck a herd. When we get down to our basic ones, they will be treated on a monthly basis with mineral oil, after I am certain with the ivermectin that I have wiped them out.

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  #9  
Old 02/29/08, 04:14 PM
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inject about 1/10 of a cc (or less) ... pull up the skin on the back of the neck and inject there. It doesn't take long to do.

yes I have done this but not on my eating stock, only on my breeding stock. If needing to do eating stock, fill ears with oil.. any kind of oil.

If this is a recurring problem, it will continue.. and you will need to keep up the maintenance.

I spray everything down with a mixture of water and diatomaceous earth. I use a small handful of DE to a gallon of water and a squirt of dish soap to help it stick. I have to keep it shook up to keep the DE mixed and my sprayer does at times get clogged.. but it is all worth it.

I would remove each cage and clean it with a good scrubbing of bleach along with a good dose of sunshine. If there is any hair and feces on the bottom, I use a small torch (for braising copper sold at the local hard ware store. Uses small bottles of fuel) and burn off any of the hair and with a once over all over the bottom before scrubbing and some sunshine.

Once it is dry, spray it with the DE mixture. The DE will adhere to the cage.

I would also spray the ground, walls or trees and anything used to cover the cages.

DE won't hurt the rabbits, it is only harmful to insects with their skeletons on the outside.. will kill bees!!!! but it will also kill mites and flies too.

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  #10  
Old 02/29/08, 05:41 PM
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I can't remove all the cages. They are hanging cages, in sections with 5 cages per 10 foot section. I have sprayed them with bleach water and intend to do that again, as soon as our weather breaks enough to open the building up, can't do it with it all closed up for the winter.

The rabbits we are going to eat, I'm not going to treat. I'm just going to off them and send them to freezer camp, but I will treat my breeders and then will keep up maintenance on the babies. But Riverpines had said you can give it orally. I'm wondering would it still be 1/10 mL to do that?

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  #11  
Old 02/29/08, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THETOOLMAN View Post
I thought it was POISON to animals BUT horses. I do not recommend doing this,,, BUT,,, I have cured systemic mange in dogs with the horse stuff just don't use very much & very seldome
My small animal vet (also a horsewoman) is the one who told me about using it for mites.
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  #12  
Old 02/29/08, 06:58 PM
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sure you can give it orally... easier to inject then to grab rabbit, open its mouth and squirt!

leave rabbit in cage, pull skin, inject move on.

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  #13  
Old 02/29/08, 07:32 PM
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Okay

Okay, thanks! I still think I'll go the oral route. I like that much better. Its easy to tip a rabbit upside down, put the syringe in the corner of the mouth and push the plunger and then move on. I'll give it a try and see if it takes care of the mites.

Thanks everyone!

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  #14  
Old 03/01/08, 09:13 AM
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I was wondering if it would kill fleas. Thanks for the info. Got to buy some paste this week. I've used paste before for a baaaaad case of fur mites.

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  #15  
Old 03/02/08, 06:44 PM
 
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Pour on Ivermectin

Unfortunately, ear mites will not go away once and for all. It is an issue that you will have as long as you have rabbits. You say that you have the pour on Ivermectin for your goats. I'm sure that it is the same as pour on for cattle. That is what I use. If you have signs of ear mites, all you have to do is put a whole cc on the back of their necks right behind their ears where the fur is thin. Just like if you were treating a cat for fleas. You don’t have to treat the area that you house your rabbits.

Ivermectin is great, once you treat your rabbits your done for about 6 months maybe a year. You don't have to clean out the crusty stuff or anything. Within a few days you can't even tell that they had them.

Ivermectin will take care of everything; ear mites, fur mites, worms, everything!!!!

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  #16  
Old 03/04/08, 09:18 AM
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NEVER, NEVER use a pour on product orally or SUB-Q. There is other stuff in it that could be fatal if metabolized incorrectly!!!

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  #17  
Old 03/04/08, 06:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunroven View Post
I seem to have a recurring problem with ear mites. No matter how I clean, no matter how much oil I use in the ears, the dumb things just keep coming back. I even clean the ears in another area,

Im just curious if you are using straw for the nest boxes and bedding. Straw, being hollow, will harbor mites while hay will not.
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  #18  
Old 10/16/11, 10:53 PM
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I just wanted to clarify a few things, though I am late.

The regular dosage for pour-on ivermectin is 1 cc (or mL) per 22 pounds of body weight. It should never ever be used in any method other than on the skin, aka "topically". I like to choose a place that the animal cannot groom, like the back of the neck between the ears. Ivermectin does have a wide range of safety, but I still stick within the given range. You can always go back in a few weeks and repeat. The ivermectin topical will actually have about a 2-3 day immediate effectiveness for other topical, blood-taking parasites like lice, etc.

Incidentally, I always use generic rather than Ivomec brand because it's the same thing, less expensive. Ivermectin pour-on is the blue liquid. I use an insulin syringe to dose, and gloves because I have often gotten that stuff on me and it soaks in FAST! lol No worms for me!

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  #19  
Old 10/17/11, 06:39 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THETOOLMAN View Post
I thought it was POISON to animals BUT horses. I do not recommend doing this,,, BUT,,, I have cured systemic mange in dogs with the horse stuff just don't use very much & very seldome
Ivermectin is used in all animals, even in humans. It is a pretty safe wormer.
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  #20  
Old 10/17/11, 11:51 AM
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Here is a question:

Could you just do a regular dose say every spring on your breeders? I have a doe that gets ear mites bad about every 2-3 months. They will go away with some olive oil or baby oil drops in the ears in about 3 days and then 2-3 months later they are back. I understand that they are just one of those things you have to deal with which is why if this medicine you guys are talking about works like that, then I would rather treat in the spring and not have to deal with them anymore for 6-12 months then all summer long.

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