Which wormers do you use? - Homesteading Today
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  #1  
Old 07/01/05, 06:02 AM
computerchick's Avatar
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Which wormers do you use?

I am currently planning and worming my crew with the leftovers of what the horse rotation looks like. I've been doing semi regular fecals, and don't worm with chemicals if there are no infestations, or they are insignificant. I've been using DE and they get quite a bit of pine.

Which wormers in my rotation other than Safeguard are safe?
Strongid, Ivermectin, Panacur


Thanks!
Andrea
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  #2  
Old 07/01/05, 02:10 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: North of Houston TX
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Rotation is a very single stomached horse and dog response to worms. No small ruminant specialist is going to recommend rotating wormers. If you are going to do it anyway, make sure and uderstand that rotating between Safeguard and Panacur or any other white wormer is not rotation...well in the case of Safeguard/Panacur and then Valbazen it is because at least Valbazen works White wormers should be used on your place for very specific reasons. I use it here on all kids, 3, 6 and 9 weeks for tapeworm control, really the only worm we have burdens in, in infant kids that can cause a problem, large worm burdens of tapes in your infants can bring on enterotoxemia. Valbazen is also good for lungworm and livefluke control if you have these two things on your place, a waste if you do not. Then at 12 weeks they are wormed with whatever wormer we are using at the time, Cydectin right now. Then they are fecaled monthly, one doeling in the pen is picked, fecal checked, we rarely have to worm until they are scheduled wormed in October for their first breeding.

I use a wormer, fecal again in 7 days, if there is a significant drop in fecal the wormer is used again the next time it's needed....here kidding, 10 days after, prebreeding in October, we haven't wormed other than that in our adult goats (unless sold) in 2 years now. Certainly less chemicals for the goats liver to deal with than herbal wormers every week or month, because herbs are chemicals, water is a chemical. The switching of wormers, the use of wormers in any route but oral, the underdosing by not knowing what the girls weigh or the correct dose of the drug, is the fastest way to resistance.

The "natural" idea just cracks me up, there is nothing natural about trapping a goat on any amount of acerage, making them kid in barns, eat grain, make more milk than kids can eat or feed them grain to the point of fatness. Open the gate and all the goats in the south would die or head north


Certainly if on fecal you see eggs different than what you are normally seeing, you may have to use a different wormer than you have been using the last several years, if your wormer does not touch it, but we expect to be using Cydectin for many years to come, like we did Ivermectin. It still gives us Levamisole and the cocktails of Ivermectin (especially the pouron used orally) to move to when and if we start to see resistance in Cydectin. I chose to move to Cydectin rather than to use cocktails of Ivermectin and white wormers or to up my dose of Ivermectin, so I could go back to it eventually. Here 99% of the worms are haemoncous. And even though Cydectin does not get one of their lifecycles that Ivermectin does, it still works very well for us. Vicki
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Vicki McGaugh
Nubian Soaps
North of Houston TX
www.etsy.com/shop/nubiansoaps

A 3 decade dairy goat farm homestead that is now a retail/wholesale soap company and construction business.
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  #3  
Old 07/01/05, 08:58 PM
computerchick's Avatar
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Thank you for your insight!

I know having lots of acreage available/low population density has a lot to do with our low parasite risk - however I'm still confused with the worming thing.

I thought that by using a specific wormer constantly is what increases the resistance?

Also out where I am safeguard is still a very effective product - more than likely due to the fact there have never been horses/etc on the land before, just pigs almost a century ago.

Thanks,
Andrea
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