East TX worms?

[WolfSoul]

Hi: I'm new to East TX and the tons of parasites here. I'm originally from up north where the winter kills them all. Anyway, I have to have goats to keep our Ag exemption and have Nubians and Alpines. I notice they are coughing and I see tapeworms in their feces. Everybody I talk to, including the vet, tell me to use a different wormer. Is there anyone out there with experience worming goats for ALL worms? I think they have round, lung and tape for sure. I just got these goats, one is pregnant (since June) and I don't want to give them something harmful. Thanks, WolfSoul

[Lt. Wombat]

We use the herbal wormer sold by Hoegger goat supply.

Being in South Dakota we have very little parasites so I can not give any advice regarding Texas bugs, but using the herbal we have had zero infestations.

[Vicki McGaugh TX Nubians]

With the Lt.'s winter freeze and less humidity he likely could worm with pickles also :haha:

I don't want to use anything that I have to worm with monthly, including herbal wormers, I also would not use a product like wormword in my goats feed monthly which is an abortive product.

I am north of Houston in Cleveland, I have had goats all of the 18 years I have been up here in the National Forest. We of course have wormed with a myriad of things, most recently moved to Cydectin, it is a purple cattle pouron. We have had wonderful results with it, in fact after kidding in March (pre breeding and the day they kid are the only two scheduled wormings we do) I did have to worm in May, but have not had a fecal egg rise since then. The girls will be rewormed the end of the month getting ready to be bred in October.

I can tell you that most folks who have uncontrollable worm burdens also do not understand the mineral issues we have out here. Your loose minerals should contain from between 1000 to 3000 ppm. of copper. More (we do the 3000) if you have iron ore in your water, we live on an iron ore hill, less if you do not. We also inject the does pre breeding and prekidding with Bo-se, to improve the readibly absorbable selenium in their diet.

Another huge help is to have a worm pen, a place where the does go for 12 hours after worming, this way the live eggs and live adults that leave the doe are not just reinfesting the main barn and fields. No hay on the ground, feeders they can't stand or poop in are a must.

A goat can't be stressed and be expected to thrive. Nutritional stress is a huge one, and without liver biopsy or blood stuides for selenium, or fecal samples to know what worm you have you are just guessing. Listening to those who do not do any of the above, or who don't live in your area, can't help you in the long run.

Tape worms, although a concern in our young stock, an intestine full of tapeworms can bring on entertoxemia, so I do use Valbazen 1cc per 10 pounds on my kids, I do not worm my adults for tapes. If you wanted to, any white wormer including Safeguard will treat tapes out here, just don't expect it to do much else, you can kill more worms shooting Safeguard on the ground out here than giving it to the goats

Where in East Texas??? My best friend has Alpines. Are you going to the Brenham show tommorrow? Vicki

[WolfSoul]

I'm in Sulphur Springs.
I appreciate everyone's advice, but I have to say I'm overwhelmed and confused by all this information. I'll reread it all and see if I comprehend what I need to learn. Thanks a lot for your help. I sure need it! Wolf

Originally Posted by Vicki McGaugh TX Nubians

With the Lt.'s winter freeze and less humidity he likely could worm with pickles also :haha:

I don't want to use anything that I have to worm with monthly, including herbal wormers, I also would not use a product like wormword in my goats feed monthly which is an abortive product.

I am north of Houston in Cleveland, I have had goats all of the 18 years I have been up here in the National Forest. We of course have wormed with a myriad of things, most recently moved to Cydectin, it is a purple cattle pouron. We have had wonderful results with it, in fact after kidding in March (per kidding and the day they kid are the only two scheduled wormings we do) I did have to worm in May, but have not had a fecal egg rise since then. The girls will be rewormed the end of the month getting ready to be bred in October.

I can tell you that most folks who have uncontrollable worm burdens also do not understand the mineral issues we have out here. Your loose minerals should contain from between 1000 to 3000 ppm. of copper. More (we do the 3000) if you have iron ore in your water, we live on an iron ore hill, less if you do not. We also inject the does pre breeding and prekidding with Bo-se, to improve the readibly absorbable selenium in their diet.

Another huge help is to have a worm pen, a place where the does go for 12 hours after worming, this way the live eggs and live adults that leave the doe are not just reinfesting the main barn and fields. No hay on the ground, feeders they can't stand or poop in are a must.

A goat can't be stressed and be expected to thrive. Nutritional stress is a huge one, and without liver biopsy or blood stuides for selenium, or fecal samples to know what worm you have you are just guessing. Listening to those who do not do any of the above, or who don't live in your area, can't help you in the long run.

Tape worms, although a concern in our young stock, an intestine full of tapeworms can bring on entertoxemia, so I do use Valbazen 1cc per 10 pounds on my kids, I do not worm my adults for tapes. If you wanted to, any white wormer including Safeguard will treat tapes out here, just don't expect it to do much else, you can kill more worms shooting Safeguard on the ground out here than giving it to the goats

Where in East Texas??? My best friend has Alpines. Are you going to the Brenham show tommorrow? Vicki

[okiemom]

I know how you feel about the complexity of goats and worms! I too have been fighting them in N.E. OK. We are worming every 6-8 wks. w/ Cydectin used orally @ 1cc/ 20lbs ( know the goats weight!!!!!). I am trying to extend this even further.

For us to do this I have been told I must get our pasture broken into smaller sections. Rotational grazing is a big must. I was told by our vet's office that rotating pastures every 3 wks is great. Also the pasture must be kept vacant for at least 1 month and longer ie. 3 months is better.

Having a horse or cow follow behind in the previous pastures also helps "vaccume " the worms. Horses and cows are not affected by the same worms. Do not follow w/ sheep as they DO get the same worms.

Dry lotting goats will also help w/ worms as the worms can't survive on just dirt. Dry lotting can cause other serious issues such as overeating,crowding, and pneumonia.

In the end, it all comes down to what works for YOU and your goats at your place. You can have different problems form someone that lives down the street. Find a goat vet who will help you get on a good program in the beginning so you will spend less time and money on vet care in the long run. Good luck, Katharine