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  #1  
Old 10/10/14, 09:15 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 64
About to give up!!

My herd is infested with barber pole worms that we have been fighting for over a month now! Treating with valzaban, keeping them up in stalls everyday until grass is completely dry, cleaning stalls daily. So discouraged and worried that this is not going to work. Any hope that cold weather will help?
Rasha
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  #2  
Old 10/10/14, 09:42 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 64
Here is how we have the stalls fixed so they don't eat from the ground.
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  #3  
Old 10/10/14, 09:45 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryland
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If Valbazen isn't working, maybe try a different dewormer.
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  #4  
Old 10/10/14, 09:53 AM
Davstep
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Give all a Copasure copper bolus (C.O.W.P.). If it is BPW, this should work better than anything else. I give full sized goats an entire bolus when needed in the past. Copper toxicity is not likely at all. I've used this for many years with no complications.
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Old 10/10/14, 09:54 AM
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Cold weather/freezes will kill any eggs in the environment. A 'clean slate' if you will.

The 'parent worms' that are in your goats (and no, you won't kill them all and continual treatment with dewormers may not be a great idea, either) will STOP shedding eggs in cold weather, but they will not die off inside of the goats. Deworming late in the season should only be done AS NEEDED. Keep in mind that deworming does not lead to instant return to non-anemic state, so don't keep deworming an anemic animal just because it's anemic.

Do fecals and treat AS NEEDED. ALL goats will have *SOME* worms. Be sure to talk to a knowledgeable SMALL RUMINANT vet and ask what egg levels they find are acceptable or require deworming. Some vets just tell you to treat no matter what or can't explain to you what levels are acceptable/unacceptable, and thats scares me when they assume any level of eggs requires treatment... :/

Deworm those that need it with a good product and confirm your doses with other raisers. Repeat in 14 days. Also treat anemia with a product like Red Cell or oral pig iron paste. DO REPEAT FECAL TESTS to confirm the levels are now acceptable. Keep them there with copper boluses/management changes (sounds like you're on the right track there! )

5.00 fecals - http://midamericaagresearch.net/

Going into winter, deworming a lot like this will kill off ONLY the worms susceptible to that dewormer/dosage. This means you will NOT kill *all* the worms, and the ones that will survive the winter in your does are the ones that are NOT as susceptible to your dewormer. Come spring, the ones that survived the winter in your goats will start putting out eggs again - which means your new kid crop will be exposed to worms that are likely more selectively resistant to your dewormer. This generally doesn't happen in one season but because more and more the case using 1 dewormer too often and as the *only* or main part of a worm management protocol. Obviously if you're having a problem, you still must deworm to get the problem under control, and I mention this only because many people deworm the whole herd 'on schedule' before going into winter and for the reason above it should be must more strategic than that.

Copper bolus your goats if you haven't already. Copper bolusing has proven effective as PART of a worm management program and I believe no resistance has been seen of worms against copper.

Finally, through the winter, do a lot of research on pasture management. Plan out your pasture rotations for next year. Ideally pasture management involves a single solid fenced HUGE area, that you subdivide into 5+ smaller paddocks using electric netting. You should then move your herd through those areas, keeping them on each plot for a week or less, then moving them to fresh ground. Ideally, I believe you'd not return your animals to that first plot for 45 days, which is beyond the life cycle of most worms. Some people follow the small ruminant herd with horses, which do not get the same worms as the goats - they eat the worms, but no infection occurs and it may reduce the number of viable worms on the pasture.

Hope that helps, sorry about your worm problems. BP's suck!
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"Breed the best, eat the rest"

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French and American Alpines. CAE, Johnes neg herd. Abscess free. LA, DHIR.
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  #6  
Old 10/10/14, 10:08 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 64
Thanks so much, I have not done the copper, where is the best place to purchase don't think anyone around my small town will have.
Rasha
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  #7  
Old 10/10/14, 10:39 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 64
Ordered Copasure Copper Bolus from Valley Vet, thanks so much I sure love my goats but they are about to get the best of me.
Rasha
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  #8  
Old 10/10/14, 11:15 AM
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The dose for copper rods is 1 gram rods per 22lbs body weight. I buy the #13 goat sized empty capsules and use a calf bolus gun to administer them. I use a small cheap jewelry scale to weigh out the copper according to body weight. I generally round up a bit in dosing. I use a weight tape to estimate body weight. Personally, I bolus 2x per year - pre-breeding and pre-kidding (about 2 weeks pre-breeding and about 4 weeks pre-kidding - that's just when I do pre-breeding and pre-kidding work, not really anything to do with copper efficacy. If you notice, however, I do pre-breeding and pre-kidding work including copper around stressful and vital moments in their life). Copper will last about 3 months in them and slowly release over time. I notice very little sings of copper deficiency in most of my animals 2x per year. You may wish to dose 3x per year (an additional dose in the summer) to help with worm load. I've done it both ways depending on need.

http://www.jefferspet.com/products/p...f-balling-guns
http://www.jefferspet.com/products/gelcaps-empty
http://www.jefferspet.com/products/copasure (I buy the big box as it's most economical, and the rods don't go bad, lol).

exact scale I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-Poc...item5410f01ff4

You'll need a little container for weighing the rods on the scale. I use a little cough medicine dose cup thing. I use half of a bolus to scoop out rods and pour into the cup for weighing. Works great.
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French and American Alpines. CAE, Johnes neg herd. Abscess free. LA, DHIR.
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