Baycox works!

GoldenWood Farm · #1 09/16/14, 10:54 AM

Well we all knew Baycox works but this is my first year using it on my keeper does. I have been pleased with the growth I was seeing from the get go but I haven't really been able to see how much a difference it is making until yesterday. I was tape measuring everyone for worming and my eyes about popped out of my head on the kids!

7 month old Eleanor is a nice 70lbs
6 1/2 month old Sarah is a whopping 81lbs (she IS fluffy)
6 1/2 month old Faline is 75lbs
Almost 6 month old twins, Shortie and Diva are 68lbs

I was worried I wouldn't get everyone to 75-80lbs by November/December to be ready for breeding but I think I will have no issues

. To those who have NOT used Baycox but are interested I highly recommend you try it out next year. I really loved my results

.

**mygoat** · #2 09/16/14, 11:00 AM

My buckling was around 90-100lbs at 5 months thanks to baycox and good feeding. Weight tape said around 100lbs but I think that was a bit high - but I couldn't pick him up to weigh him on the bathroom scale. :P I even stopped giving it after he was like 4 months old. My doeling was around 70lbs as well, I could just barely lift her for the bathroom scale. Probably shouldn't have lifted her, lol, as she weighs more than half of what I do. :P I love the stuff, so easy in the milk, one dose, and I only gave it for like 4 doses.

Last year I did try doing the 'one time dose' at a month of age, then not again... my March born doeling was breedable by December (much later than normal for me), so it wasnt a HUGE deal but I she was right at 80lbs whereas previous kids and current kids were much bigger at the same age. A June born doeling was as big as the March born doeling by December so they were both bred... but that March baby should've been much bigger. But, some people suggested it, so I tried it - live and learn.

GoldenWood Farm · #3 09/16/14, 11:13 AM

Yeah I think I gave....4 doses or maybe it was 5, I would have to look at my records to be sure

. I am really happy with everyone's weights. I can't imagine a 90-100lb buck at 5 months! Though some of my bucks where weighing in at 55-56lbs at just 6 weeks so I could see it.

Justine

marusempai · #4 09/16/14, 01:01 PM

So is baycox for coccidia, then? I've been doing my best, but Zelda is going to *just* make breeding weight this year, and I'd like to do better next year. Getting them earlier will not hurt!

Doug Hodges · #5 09/16/14, 02:52 PM

I need to weigh my girls. I didn't realize how big the young girls were until I put them with the mature girls. Wow. All mine are ready to breed now.

I put a young buck with nutmeg today to check her. He's bigger than she is. Of course he's 9 months old now but I was really surprised. I have the young bucks with Troubador and I guess Troubador is much bigger than I thought too. It's hard to tell. I have all the bucks penned and all the young ones penned too.

http://www.spottednubian.com/index.html

**mygoat** · #6 09/16/14, 05:19 PM

Yes, baycox is for coccidia. Other things I used in the past worked, but baycox is so much easier.

The other main reason I'm seeing such good growth though is feeding... Last couple years totally switched the way I feed growing kids and it really makes a difference.

farmmaid · #7 09/16/14, 05:34 PM

WOW...............thank you to all who provided information and did the math. Can you use it on lambs? If so dosage?

**mygoat** · #8 09/16/14, 07:41 PM

Yes, you can use it in lambs... here's the problem though - Baycox has a 70 day withrawal. I only used it once in my boer kids at 3-4 weeks of age, then tried to get enough of a medicated grain into them to keep coccidia down. (they were dam raised and I was not going to catch them all for 5 days in a row of dimethox... neither was my dad, lol).

So, it works great for 'keeper' dairy kids or lambs etc - you'll have to be careful or any that are terminal at a young age, if it's a concern for your raising.

farmmaid · #9 09/16/14, 08:22 PM

MY Goat....what is the dose for sheep?...........THANK YOU.

VA Susan · #10 09/16/14, 09:30 PM

Do you breed your doelings the first year then if they are heavy enough? We used to breed our goats their first year when we had goats years ago. My parents who had a goat dairy did too but from what I've read here I thought it was best for the doe to wait till her second year for breeding.
We weighed our goats on Aug 1st before giving the Baycox and here were their weights. I haven't weighed them again since.
The first two are our two Oberhaslis who were weaned too early at 8 wks. We've been feeding them all really well.
Mattie 60 pounds @ almost 4 months
Emma 50 pounds @ 4 months
Annie the Boer goat bottle baby 50 pounds @ 3 months

VA Susan · #11 09/16/14, 09:39 PM

Goldenwood farm, your goats look so sleek and healthy!

**mygoat** · #12 09/16/14, 09:48 PM

I *hate* dry yearlings and always breed my doe kids the first fall. The only exceptions would be doe kids born too late in summer, and doe kids that I somehow screwed up/stunted through my own management (trying new setup/procedure etc). HOWEVER, I dislike dry yearlings so much that there is a huge chance that I would rather SELL than keep a dry yearling around. The doeling would have to be worth the wait.

I'm a big proponent of not catering to livestock, but culling them. If they can't breed their first fall under good management, cull them. If they can't kid out fine on their own (barring single huge kids which can get stuck when perfectly presented and experienced kidders and which can can be a management thing as well) and don't perform the way I'd like them to, I don't give them a break, or wait to kid them, etc etc. I cull them. If I breed the ones that perform well, then their entire lines have better prospects for life. If I cater to the ones that don't do what I want them to or that poorly perform, I'm just making more like that. And, I'm having to do more work/get less back. And, my buyers may not manage them the same way I do and that could lead to more issues... no, I'd rather cull than cater. /end rant. :P

I am not a sheep person, but I assume the dose for lambs would be the same as for goats as the mgs/kg is the same I believe - 1ml per 5lbs. Prevention is giving it every 3 weeks until well grown - here I usually end up stopping around 4 months and continuing my medicated feed. SHAKE WELL - it settles. If I have to dose several animals, I keep shaking the bottle. bottle fed animals can get the baycox in the milk (After microwaving/stirring). It doesn't taste bad so even drenching kids isn't *that* bad. When you cost it out, it is cheaper per dose than baycox because it is a 1 day treatment vs a 5 day; Even though the bottle is more expensive, it is cheaper in the long run.

GoldenWood Farm · #13 09/16/14, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA Susan

Do you breed your doelings the first year then if they are heavy enough? We used to breed our goats their first year when we had goats years ago. My parents who had a goat dairy did too but from what I've read here I thought it was best for the doe to wait till her second year for breeding.
We weighed our goats on Aug 1st before giving the Baycox and here were their weights. I haven't weighed them again since.
The first two are our two Oberhaslis who were weaned too early at 8 wks. We've been feeding them all really well.
Mattie 60 pounds @ almost 4 months
Emma 50 pounds @ 4 months
Annie the Boer goat bottle baby 50 pounds @ 3 months

In the past I have bred does to kid out as two years olds though I have bred for does to kid out as yearlings sometimes. This year I am breeding them to kid out as yearlings, well they will be 13-14 months when the kid give or take

. I think it truly comes down to different strokes for different folks. I am breeding this girls to my new Nigerian Dwarf buck for their first kidding. Could they handle being bred full size? I am sure they could, I have kidded out does that age before bred full size. But I personally prefer using a ND on the first kidding as it is much less stressful and if anything goes wrong generally you are dealing with much smaller kids

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA Susan

Goldenwood farm, your goats look so sleek and healthy!

Thank you! They got shaved in June so I am sure that helps with the sleek look but they are looking really well this year

.

motdaugrnds · #14 09/17/14, 08:41 AM

I'm interested in trying Baycox; however, I slaughter kids that don't sell when they are around 8 months of age. I know there is a withdrawal time period for milk; but is there also one for slaughtering (for both human and dog consumption)?

**mygoat** · #15 09/17/14, 09:05 AM

I don't know what the withdrawal is for milk animals, but 4 month old animals receiving their last dose will be many times over a 70 day withdrawal by the time they are lactating. (I have never had to treat an an adult animal for coccidia, and I'd likely opt to cull instead of treat - and I probably would try to avoid using baycox to treat)

I know the withdrawal in other countries for baycox is 70-77 days for meat animals. It is, however, ILLEGAL to use in the US for any animals entering food chain because it is not an approved drug.

Pony · #16 09/17/14, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA Susan

Do you breed your doelings the first year then if they are heavy enough?

This is the first year I've had dry yearlings here. Last year's breeding season was just too.... everything. LOL

I generally breed at 8 months/80 pounds, and have not had any problems with adult growth. As long as you provide good feed and minerals, and manage any problems that arise, you'll get good growth with good genetics.

GoatGirl123 · #17 09/17/14, 11:16 AM

We wait until the second year to breed our NDs. I can't imagine breeding our five-month-old doeling this year, even in several months -- she's only around twenty pounds! Maybe we're paranoid, but it's better to be safe than sorry in my opinion.

Pony · #18 09/17/14, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoatGirl123

We wait until the second year to breed our NDs. I can't imagine breeding our five-month-old doeling this year, even in several months -- she's only around twenty pounds! Maybe we're paranoid, but it's better to be safe than sorry in my opinion.

Having never raised a miniature breed, I cannot speak to the question for you.

In my experience, Nubians do just fine when they have reached 8 months and 80 pounds.

marusempai · #19 09/17/14, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony

In my experience, Nubians do just fine when they have reached 8 months and 80 pounds.

I'm always glad to hear folks say that, because Zelda is on track to be 80 lbs at the end of October at which point we are planning on breeding her, but I'm nervous because she still seems so tiny.

Frosted Mini's · #20 09/17/14, 04:43 PM

My Nigerian doelngs at 7-8 months right now are about 5/8-3/4 their adult height...and in good flesh. They will be bred soon.