Goat Birthing Prep

Buckles · #1 07/30/14, 09:24 AM

Does anyone have some good reference material that I could read on preparing for goat birthing?

**mygoat** · #2 07/30/14, 09:37 AM

http://fiascofarm.com/goats/kidding.htm

While I don't agree with everything this website talks about, the birthing position pictures are really invalueable.

Earlier in gestation, usually 30 days post breeding, I draw blood for CAE/Johnes testing. I want to know status prior to kidding.

1 month pre-kidding, I copper bolus, BoSe, and Vaccinate.

Deworm at kidding with cydectin, I use pour on at 1cc per22lbs, or quest horse paste 1cc per 100lbs.

Increase grain intake and MAXIMIZE the quality of your forage 4-6 weeks prior to kidding.You don't want to totally rely on grain for improving nutrition. You wnat them to have some grain so they transition better onto a lactation diet, but you really don't need gobs of grain pre-kidding if your forage portion is good.

As far as supplies, I keep towels and iodine in a bin, that is pretty much it. Also good to HAVE, is a feeding syringe and colostrum replacer or heat treated frozen colostrum (or find a good raiser in your area you can call in an emergency). Even if you don't PLAN on bottle raising, ti's always good to have a couple of the lambar grey nipples (that fit on pop bottles too) on hand IN CASE.

Buckles · #3 07/30/14, 09:48 AM

That is some great information. Thank you!

What about environmental needs? Do they need a stall to be separated in from the herd? Or would leaving them together be okay? If not, how soon can they go back to the herd with the kids?

**mygoat** · #4 07/30/14, 03:36 PM

Depends on your kidding season and climate. I do suggest locking them in during cold weather into a clean, well bedded stall while they are IN labor. Me, I'm just in the barn through kiddings in all weather.

If you have one doe kidding at a time and a small herd, I wouldn't put them up for too long - here, when I have one doe kidding at a time, I don't separate them at all. Separation helps the bonding in confusing/high stocking areas like when multiple animals are kidding at once. Kids can get lost or stolen by other motherly does in conditions like that. But one momma kidding ought to be able to bond with her kids while never leaving the herd.

Minimal isolation time is necessary and long isolation periods are detrimental to herd dynamics. Unless you have a psycho herdmate, the other animals in the herd will gently move around newborns to teach them they can't nurse off of just anybody etc.

Buckles · #5 07/30/14, 04:07 PM

Oh okay, that is great to know. I live in Florida so it is hot pretty much year round with very little cold season.

I have a small flock right now just 3 does and only one is pregnant. I keep my bucks separate because one doe is like a year old and not ready to be bred.

**mygoat** · #6 07/30/14, 05:21 PM

She should be ready to breed at a year old.

I often breed at 80lbs, which they ought to be at by 8 months or earlier. I *hate* dry yearlings, they're a big ole waste-o-space and usually end up tubby. :P

But I do suggest keeping bucks separate anyways, so you can put the doe in with the buck when you notice her in heat. If you pen breed, the does can be really sneaky about getting bred, and not having a duedate is a nightmare from management (and sanity!) standpoints.