When to De-Worm

CarolynRenee · #1 01/21/14, 03:32 PM

I did fecals on my goats and one of them had more of a barberpole load than the others (like 3x). I wormed her with Ivomec (orally) on Monday and was wondering if I should de-worm her again at some point or just do it based upon the follow up fecal float? And when should I do a follow up float? Is today (Tuesday) too soon?

Thanks!

haypoint · #2 01/21/14, 04:01 PM

Ivermecterin stays in the system a few days, still killing parasites. Fecal shows worm eggs when they are shedding them, not so accurate when worms are attacking other organs. Always de-worm after a hard freeze in the fall and 6 weeks ahead of kidding.
While de0wormers aren't harmful to humans, I keep medications to a minimum while they are in milk.
I you know you have a worm problem, I'd wait at least another week for another squirt.

CarolynRenee · #3 01/21/14, 04:25 PM

I've heard of worming the does right AFTER kidding, but not 6 weeks before. I don't want to "just worm" for the heck of it. If you worm at the 6 weeks and right after, what wormer do you use? I'll be drinking the milk about two weeks after kidding so I don't want anything in the milk.

Alice In TX/MO · #4 01/21/14, 05:55 PM

The normal protocol at this time, from what I've read, is deworm at kidding, then again in ten days.

Many worms are immune to Ivomec, so some of us have changed over to Cydectin. Again, given orally. Milk withdrawal time is a personal decision because we are all using these products "off label." They have not been tested for residual in goat milk, so the withdrawal times that are on the package are for dairy cattle, NOT goats.

Deworming at 100 days bred is just about the same as deworming six weeks prior to kidding. If the goats are anemic (check the inner lower eyelid color), this is a good idea, and is standard practice for some goat owners.

Here's a link to a large amount of information about deworming and all the products to use and how to use them:
http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/f28/wor...wormers-21389/

Alice In TX/MO · #5 01/21/14, 06:05 PM

Link to pages about withdrawal times. Read the short statement at the top, please, about the issue of testing and off label use.

http://www.luresext.edu/goats/training/Goatmeds.pdf

Clovers_Clan · #6 01/21/14, 09:22 PM

Unless there are some extenuating circumstances, such as a high stress event, you may want to evaluate that individual's place in your herd. Worm resistance is greatly genetically variable. She could be drastically increasing the whole herd's worm burden in the future.

Alice In TX/MO · #7 01/22/14, 07:01 AM

Yes to Clovers Clan's post. You don't want worm hoarders in your herd or to keep her kids.

fffarmergirl · #8 05/07/14, 08:48 PM

I'm so confused about worming. IDK if I need to worm my goat or not. She seems very healthy to me and I forgot all about worming until yesterday. Her kid is 8 days old. She doesn't graze, she lives in a shed with a pen - eats hay off the ground and grain from a bucket.

Alice In TX/MO · #9 05/07/14, 09:19 PM

Get a fecal test run.

haypoint · #10 05/11/14, 08:45 PM

Fecal exam is an important tool, if the animal is passing eggs at the moment of sample collection.
Much damage is dione by parisites. Save the cost of a fecal exam and spend it on a good wormer. IMHO

fffarmergirl · #11 05/11/14, 09:12 PM

It's confusing. I hear some say do a fecal first and others say to worm the day a fter kidding regardless, and some wormers work for this and some work for that but all goats have worms at all times and barber pole worms are the worst. Then I go to buy former and it says "works on 3 different types of intestinal worms" b it doesn't say which types......I bought it and gave it and will repeat in a month. Hopefully the goats will b fine. They seemed fine before I wormed them.