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  #1  
Old 09/13/13, 05:01 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: W NY
Posts: 1,282
Skinny doe

I have a doe who has always been thin. My vet agrees. You all would be disgusted at how thin she is. I can't seem to get her to gain!

She was not a heavy milker and is drying now. I put her on the stand 1st and when she finishes I give her beet pulp and alfalfa pellets while I milk the other two and do any more things around the barn. She has access to good hay all the time. I was also putting some vegetable oil on her beet pulp, alfalfa and boss.

The last fecal said quite minor worm loads and the vet recommended because she thin to deworm her anyway. I did.

What else can I give to her to bring her weight up? Or are some just really hard keepers?

She has tested clear CAE and Johnes.
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  #2  
Old 09/13/13, 05:19 PM
Alice In TX/MO's Avatar
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Some are just skinny. Did you raise her or buy her from elsewhere?
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  #3  
Old 09/13/13, 05:54 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: W NY
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I got her and her 1/2 sister, who is in solid shape, from a person whi does care well for her goats. She is licensed to sell raw milk here is NY and practices good management for diseases.

It's just so frustrating. She looks so sick .

Eta: they were about 4-6 mos when I got them
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  #4  
Old 09/13/13, 06:06 PM
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How long have you had her? How many times has she been tested for Johnes? One clean test isn't a very good picture at all, as known positive animals may give a neg result if they are able to keep the Johnes 'at bay'. If you have a few years of negative ELISAs, then you can trust them... but otheerwise, it may be worthwhile to do a fecal Johnes culture.

Severe cocci loads or intestinal disease when young can cause permanent scarring of the intestine and SEVERELY decrease an animals' ability to absorb nutrients. (Thickening of the intestine and scar tissue accumulation is the same reason Johnes causes animals to waste away, too, just as an FYI) This would have happend as a young kid but can affect them their entire life in their ability to utelize the food they eat.

If she were mine, I'd probably try an extended dry period and feed her a fairly rich diet through her dry period. I'd probably cut it back to a normal pregnancy ration about amonth pre-kidding to keep the kids from getting super huge. I'd consider using replamin on her as well.

The problem with increasing carbs in her diet is that she will be prone to acidosis so you'll have to be sure she gets baking soda free choice - and if she slows in appetite, drench her a few times with baking soda. Too much fat in the diet makes it hard for them to digest PLUS polyunsaturated fats are toxic to rumen bugs and must undergo biohydrogenation in order for them to be utelizeable - this is not a problem unless you REALLY over feed them because there are only so many enzymes and they can only work so fast.

What's her diet like, and what have you tried in the past?
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  #5  
Old 09/13/13, 06:55 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: W NY
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She gets free choice grassy alfalfa. She also has pasture - overgrown weedy- I don't have woods/brush on my property.
I give her about a pint cup of dairy goat mix (TSC dairy goat feed), and a pint of alfalfa pellets.

Once she's done with that, I milk the others and give her about the same amount of each again and one of beet pulp shreds. I've only done the veggie oil a few times so far; I'll stop that. She has baking soda and minerals when she wants and replamin (I've not been good about weekly, but at least every two weeks).

She is just over 2 years old.

The fecal test showed minor load of worms and coccidia, but the vet wasn't too alarmed at that and I asked if she needed to go on something stronger than safeguard. The vet said safeguard was fine to give her as there is not much resistance here in this area. I did use ivomec pour on about 1 week prior to the fecal test being done - the testing was for all my goats and I was more concerned about CAE and Johnes on my friends goats, so I just had the fecal done on her just because.

I checked her eyes and they are nice and pink.

I have quest as well. If anyone recommends that, what dose?
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  #6  
Old 09/13/13, 09:16 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bellflower, MO
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Quest is 1ml/cc per 100 pounds. So on this one if you give the quest you will have given her safeguard good for tapeworms, ivermec almost all other worms, and quest good for barberpole...what have you given for cocci treatment...I am not positive but I don't think any of the above are treatments for cocci. Though if she is pink she isn't anemic, coat texture good?
All goats have some worms, so some are ummm allowed but when a goat gets stressed then the worms like to multiply and attack because goats resistance is lowered during stressful times.
ANYWAYs ...I too have a goat that looks to me like a walking skeleton, I know her care prior to me was VeRy basic and her rumen is not as developed as it should of been, its very embarrassing sometimes when people come over and see her compared to my other goats I have come to the conclusion she will never look as good as the others but she has a heart of gold and she can spend her last few years here, I just watch and monitor closely for any changes and make sure she eats well.
I know many would say cull her but this is my one softy case allowed, I swear!!
So my advice count it as you will, watch her closely for any sudden changes, keep feeding her well and I would boost that replimin and supplement with loose minerals or brown mineral block. eeeeek I know a mineral block!! But my goats love it!!
OH and have seen much better results with the replimin plus not making that up.
Just had a thought can you top coat her "on the stand" portions with a little probios?
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  #7  
Old 09/14/13, 07:18 AM
aka avdpas77
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: central Missouri
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Just curious as I am still trying to learn about goats.

a) she seems to be persistently thin, even with extra rations
b) she doesn't seem to be excessively troubled with parasites as a cause
c) she is not a heavy milker.

Is she special to you in some way? It seems she is an under-performer and poor genetically. Why do you keep her?

Do you think she will produce better next year?
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