Picketting and stalls for newbies

Zeet_Cranberry · #1 08/26/12, 03:41 PM

We are aquiring two bucks to eat weeds around our hobby farm. Had planned to get some next summer but these are coming available right now. So we're jumping in.

Wondering what the best way to picket them so we can move them around? We don't really have fencing where we need them.

We do have barn space, but need to build some stalls. Would prefer wood and wondering if 1x lumber is strong enough or do we need to use 2x. Don't know the exact breed but they are not miniatures. Is a 4' high wood slat fence enough inside a barn?

Thanks for your advice!

nc_mtn · #2 08/26/12, 05:57 PM

Some will complain about staking out goats but I didn't have any problems. Just make sure they are not tangled up and can reach water. I think most worry about dogs getting them but I don't have that problem here.

In a stall, I would make it a bit more than 4 ft tall. They're in a confined space and will get bored pretty easy, therefore looking for a way out. Depends on how you build it but I wouldn't worry about using 1x lumber, but if you leave space in between the boards, it will make it easier to climb out.

Minelson · #3 08/26/12, 06:04 PM

There is a lot of controversy about picketing or tethering goats out. I would not do it unless I was within constant "seeing" position. I have picketed horses before on camping trips and there have been enough problems with that. Goats are even worse. Just from my experience. Others have had no problem with doing it. I won't risk my goats getting hurt, strangled or attacked by predators. Mine are pets.

A great product that you might want to look into is netting...
Some people here on this forum use it and are very happy with it. I have used it around the garden to keep the goats out and it worked great. It's fairly easy to move...but you must have it plugged in and working or you will have a real mess on your hands...

http://www.premier1supplies.com/goats/species.php

Alice In TX/MO · #4 08/26/12, 06:05 PM

Yes, you will catch it for wanting to picket goats. It's a dangerous practice. They get tangled and choke, and they are targets for predators.

We tried it when we first acquired goats and spent a LOT of time untangling them.

It's just not a good idea.

Never leave them unattended, please.

CaliannG · #5 08/26/12, 06:29 PM

You can picket them, but they MUST be supervised. Last month, a lady I know picketed her goats while a company was working on her fence. An hour later, she came out to a dead goat. He had managed to hang himself.

The biggest problem is that folks tend to try to picket goats who have NO clue what a collar or leash are for. Folks that first train their goats to lead, and then give them short, VERY supervised stints being tethered do not seem to have the problems that folks who catch their goats, tie them out, and think that the goats will figure it out, do.

mekasmom · #6 08/26/12, 06:37 PM

Goats actually do well with the invisible fence dog collars too. They will stay in the boundary and learn quickly.

MaddieLynn · #7 08/26/12, 08:39 PM

I just wanted to add that you'll really want to wether those bucks or you'll have to deal with... erm... a buck's idea of romance whenever they come into rut which is, like, NOW. They pee on their face... and worse. And they stink. Trust me, it ain't pretty.

Zilli · #8 08/26/12, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeet_Cranberry

We are aquiring two bucks to eat weeds around our hobby farm. Had planned to get some next summer but these are coming available right now. So we're jumping in.

Wondering what the best way to picket them so we can move them around? We don't really have fencing where we need them.

We do have barn space, but need to build some stalls. Would prefer wood and wondering if 1x lumber is strong enough or do we need to use 2x. Don't know the exact breed but they are not miniatures. Is a 4' high wood slat fence enough inside a barn?

Thanks for your advice!

So, will these goats be tied out all day? All night?

How will you provide shelter for them? And water and food (goats do NOT live well on "weeds" alone)? A goat on a chain or a rope will tip over a bucket of water and a goat on a chain or a rope needs to be able to not only get out of the rain but also needs access to shade.

A goat on a rope or a chain is, basically, a sitting duck for predators - and that might even include your own previously seemingly docile pet dogs.

When I was selling goats, if someone told me this was their intention, there would have been no sale.

Sorry.......but I just don't see a happy life for a goat at the end of a tether.

Edited to add: Electric fencing can work well without too terribly much expense. A charger can run from $50.00 and up (I occasionally see them on Craigslist for cheap), a roll of wire isn't too much, and you can buy those little fiberglass "step in" posts for around $1.70 each - all of which is relatively easy to move around. Throw in a portable shelter that can also be easily moved - three pallets secured by t-posts and a piece of plywood or tin for the top - and you've provided a much more secure, safe, and humane containment for your goats than tying them out.

Clovers_Clan · #9 08/27/12, 08:48 AM

If you do not have predator problems. A portable pen made from cattle panels would be a better solution than tethering until you get your fencing resolved. Provide water and a dogloo for shelter and move the pen daily. I would still put them up in the barn at night, safe from predators. And you will still need to supplement with hay in the evening, a portable pen is not large enough to provide forage to sustain them. Its more of a snack, exercise and break from the boredom of the barn.

silverseeds · #10 08/27/12, 09:47 AM

You might try one of those dog kennel type enclosures. I had one until a try I was dropping fell the wrong way. I could move it around real easy with them in there. It worked well. I need to get a new one actually.

gracie88 · #11 08/28/12, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Wondering what the best way to picket them so we can move them around? We don't really have fencing where we need them.

Quote:

The biggest problem is that folks tend to try to picket goats who have NO clue what a collar or leash are for.

This ^^^

Ok, I confess, I tether my goats. Sometimes. I can tell you what works for me, your situation is probably not exactly the same. I do it to keep the outside of my fences clear so they are always against the fence, can only travel 180 deg, not 360. Everyone gets a collar when they are little, even if it's just a bit of baling twine (sisal will break in a pinch, plastic will not, you want your collars to be less strong than a goat's neck). Everyone gets used to being led by the collar. I tether in pairs, they seem happier that way as long as I pay attention to herd politics and dramas and only put friends together

. Each gets about 20' of rope, both attached to a single large swivel clip (like on a lead rope) at the fence and a smaller swivel clip (like a leash) at each collar. Swivels are VERY IMPORTANT. I've seen some down the road that are tethered to t-posts when they are out and their tethers are attached to rings which swivel freely around the post this is VERY IMPORTANT, I'm not sure goats know how to turn around, if they can, they will wind tighter and tighter until there's no slack left. Swivels compensate for alot of the winding. They usually wind their legs up once or twice in the beginning, all of mine have learned to keep their feet free. I purposely do not rescue them until they are completely, uncomfortably stuck, but I watch very closely in the beginning.

For you, probably posts and tethering singly unless they are absolutely best buds and there's no girls around (and I will assume you know what you're doing, getting bucks, since that's not what you asked about) is better than tethering in pairs, so make sure that they cannot touch each other at all or they will tangle each other. If they are little, and your ground is solid, you might get away with one of those screw-in dog tie-out things, but a full sized doe can pop those right out of the ground and wrap it around all sorts of roses, trees and flowers in a destructive, garden-eating orgy, don't ask me how I know. On a related note, do not expect tethering to hold your goats 100% of the time, have your garden fenced.

Quote:

We do have barn space, but need to build some stalls. Would prefer wood and wondering if 1x lumber is strong enough or do we need to use 2x. Don't know the exact breed but they are not miniatures. Is a 4' high wood slat fence enough inside a barn?

1x is probably not enough for bucks unless it's a really short span and 5' high would be better. My buck will sometimes repeatedly headbutt the wood feeder between him and the girls in apparent frustration. Or boredom. All he wants to do in breeding season is spar or mate and if the cow isn't there to headbutt, I suppose the feeder is the next best thing. 1x will not hold up under pounding like that.

Disclaimer: I have low-drama goats. I purposely cull for low-drama. I had one doe that would race out to the end of her tether and flip herself every single time I walked out to her. We ate her. My buck was never tethered before I got him but was taught to lead and he is (most of the time) a mellow, easy-going guy, he took right to it. My point is, some goats may not adapt to tethering. You probably want a back-up plan.

Shayanna · #12 08/28/12, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gracie88

This ^^^

Disclaimer: I have low-drama goats. I purposely cull for low-drama. I had one doe that would race out to the end of her tether and flip herself every single time I walked out to her. We ate her. My buck was never tethered before I got him but was taught to lead and he is (most of the time) a mellow, easy-going guy, he took right to it. My point is, some goats may not adapt to tethering. You probably want a back-up plan.

Thats what I tell people about our fencing. Some people swear by woven wire or 7-8 strand electric and yada yada. Our goats are kept in by a 3 strand electric fence. There is no denying that if they really wanted out, they could, but with some careful teaching according to each goat's personality, they don't even attempt to escape. My nubians before we got them were never fenced or tethered, and they also never left the yard. I guess the only thing I can tell you is to get to know your goats.

SeaGoat · #13 08/28/12, 01:24 PM

When I first brought them here I would tether mine out while working out in the yard (behind a fence when inside).
...The amount of loose dogs around here (thats a whole different story) now scare me enough to not even think about tying my goats out unless they are getting clipped or feet trimmed..z
If I let them out to graze they are free roaming. When I want them back in I just walk back to the goat house and call.. They come running every time (In search of food no less)

Zeet_Cranberry · #14 08/28/12, 03:15 PM

Thanks for all this information. We have talked about adding goats next summer but this opportunity has moved up our thinking....

My wife has been in the conversation with our friend who wants to pass his two goats on to us and when I told her I posted she added some info that may ease your minds. The two are wethered so we won't have the stinky buck issue. They have been on pickets at our friend's so we're hoping they know how to deal with that...we'll certainly use a similar system to his but are also curious on how others do it. We definately plan to put them in the barn at night. We don't think there are many predators around but we have limited animals (rabbits and chickens) now...none that are outside at night...so more will probably be a draw.

Not sure about 5' high stalls...hoping that limited barn time makes it easier.

hoggie · #15 08/28/12, 03:26 PM

I regularly tether my goats (and the pony as well).

I use a stake into the ground with a swivel on the top, halfway along the rope I have another swivel, and a swivel on the clip to the collar.

Water bucket is no problem - firstly take two old car tyres and tie them together one on top of the other and place your water bucket inside them. Then position the water bucket so that the clip of the tether rope comes to the near edge of the bucket (the middle of the bucket if you are tethering on a headcollar). That way the goat cannot get the rope around the bucket and tip it over.

Never tether a goat on a slope unless it has some flat space at the bottom of the slope which it can reach. Even a goat can lose it's footing and that is when they hang themselves. If it has flat ground which it can reach, it will be able to regain it's footing.

A tethered animal cannot get to shade or shelter for itself, so that needs to be thought out when you move their tether each day.

The tether needs moving regularly - goats won't eat the ground they have been walking around on for a day.

They need to be checked regularly during the day.

Where I live tethering is the traditional method of keeping animals from goats up to bulls although nowadays few people do it.

The biggest point to remember is that ALL animals need to be trained to tether. This means building them up to the idea of being tied bit at a time.

Good luck whatever you decide to do

ETA - I live in a place that is entirely predator free, obviously the presence of predators affects the tethering issue