minimum space needs?

rootsandwings · #1 11/07/10, 08:16 AM

I am struggling with persistent parasite problems. I am now working with a vet to create a comprehensive management plan to resolve them. Unfortunately this is going to involve taking my goats off of ALL of my fenced pasture for an extended period of time. Dh is willing to help me set up corrals in the woods ("virgin" land) that can be moved periodically so that the goats do not have to spend all of their time in the barn, and I will work out the moving/worming schedule with the vet.

however, the corrals are going to be a significant expense for us. I am trying to figure out the absolute minimum space 7 adult nubians and one runty wether will need to avoid social overcrowding (I'll be hay feeding and putting them up in the barn at night/in bad wether) They have 400 sq feet in the barn, and that just seems too small.

Birch Hill Farm · #2 11/07/10, 09:07 AM

After a few good freezes you should be able to put them back in their regular field untill spring. When things start getting wet and warm again you will have to get them out of there for up to 90 days. Any corral, unless its field size is going to get over crowded pretty fast. Just be prepared for cranky goats butting each other around.

Natural Beauty Farm · #3 11/07/10, 09:08 AM

What parasites?
Most vets dose goat too low and so you build up resistance or you are not getting the life cycle completely. With winter coming your troubles are minimizing until spring.

What did you worm with?
How often?
Did you change wormers?

400sq ft is plenty, going into the winter we make our pens much smaller so the can stay warm and draft free. 10 does are in box stalls 10X10 and the bucks have a 10X12

rootsandwings · #4 11/07/10, 09:21 AM

I got some alpacas. the alpacas brought resistant gut worms. I had been using Ivomec and it is no good. I tried safeguard since I had never used it and we are fairly isolated - it has had limited effectiveness. I am going to use quest as a holding action due to pregnancy and then hit them all with Valbazen before they return to pasture. because we generally have cycles of thaw and freeze rather than a really hard winter the vet recommends short mowing, liming (or burning, but dh says I will burn down the barn) and keeping them off the pasture until the field is re-established to a reasonable height. That will be at least the end of March.

natural beauty, do your does stay in the box stalls all the time? they have 100 sqft each, yes? mine only have 50 each in the barn.

Natural Beauty Farm · #5 11/07/10, 11:38 PM

Disclaimer: Dosage for Alpacas and goats is different and some goat dewormers will kill an alpaca.

The wormers you listed all kill different worms, ie. none kill all worms, just one or two kinds. That is why you are having trouble. So you are not killing the "gut worms" which are HC or barber pole worms. Here I had to up the Ivomec dose from what my vet said. Did not kill anybody and the worms died. 10 days later I hit them again with Cydectin and then 10 days later Ivomec again. That kills the eggs that are hatching.

If does are bred, quest is NOT a "safe" wormer the first 100 days. You do run the risk with killing the HC worms to abort the does.

Ivomec and moxidectin kill HC worms
Valbazen is used in kids for tapes, we worm our does with it right after kidding.
Safeguard is useless IMO and kills goats because new owners think it will worm their goats.

Short grass is good, if goats have brush and trees to eat off of. The short grass will make them look elsewhere for food. Waiting til the grass is dry of dew will help also. Worms crawl to the tip top of grass when it is wet and wait to get eaten.

rootsandwings · #6 11/08/10, 07:12 AM

the remaining alpaca will be on his way to somewhere that knows what they are doing better than I soon - I hope! In any case, my vet has a glowing recommendation from a local serious alpaca farm, so I am not so worried about the alpaca.

I really really need to know about space right now. I have to get the panels ordered. anybody? Does anyone dry-lot goats? keep them in a small space on rotation?

rootsandwings · #7 11/08/10, 08:59 AM

ok, I finally found something - ADGA says the exercise yard should have 25 sqft per animal - so 200 sqft - really?! What do you guys think? Does that sound like enough?

that doesn't seem like enough.

Oat Bucket Farm · #8 11/08/10, 10:30 AM

Valbazen will get Liver Flukes too as will Ivermect Plus but neither is safe until does are 100 days bred.

HappyFarmer · #9 11/08/10, 05:51 PM

We dry lot our 7 bucks in a pen rough estimate 70x100 ft. during the winter months. It works well because 3/4 of the area is on a hill, so drainage is excellent, plus the hill is sand. Late spring they are returned to 4 acres of pasture.

If you're using cattle panels you can move the pen if it becomes too soiled. Dry-lotting for 60 days is an excellent way to break the worm cycle, would work for your alpacas, too.

HF

rootsandwings · #10 11/08/10, 07:18 PM

well, I ordered panels today - the area is going to be 20x30, and I am hoping that will be ok. I will be moving it - over an area of about ten acres, so that part shouldn't be a problem.

thank you all for the heads up on the quest! at the moment only one goat is showing any external signs of parasites, and he is a buck who is simply too much on the thin side. I also have a doe who has dropped in her milk production, but as she is a first fresher, I can't really be sure why. I do know that she has weaned her kid. And that she is not bred.