You have to consider the animals you want to keep in and the animals you want to keep out. To avoid charging through, you have to train them to stay within the fence and not to challenge it. However, electric fences are ALWAYS supposed to be on. Don't let anyone tell you that once you train your animals to stay in you can just shut it off. That is a recipe for disaster. From what I understand, it takes very little energy to keep the fence on, if it's properly grounded and not grounding out somewhere like on a gate or a fencepost or a fallen tree. The real power surge occurs when the fence makes contact with a grounded object.
Keeping unwanted objects off the fence (like brush, trees, grasses, snow, etc.) will keep that charge flowing, waiting for a correction of a naughty animal testing that fence.
Grounding, grounding, and more grounding (like with grounding rods, not with unwanted objects) is how you ensure a good, solid charge from your charger.
The way I was taught was that JOULES are the way to measure chargers. They are actually how they calculate that "10-mile" or "5-mile" or whatever "mile" rating; through a conversion of joules and lineal feet of fence. Don't go by voltage except for what type it takes to run it (12v DC vs. 110v AC).
That said, last time I posted this tidbit about joules on HT, someone else posted some different information that I found interesting but I couldn't follow-up on it enough to really get my head around it. Maybe they will post it again here or maybe you can find it in the archives and translate it for all of us.