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04/02/08, 09:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 641
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REPEAT Deworming in 10 days?
Am I supposed to always deworm and then again in 10 days or what? This confuses me. Nobody has the same answer. I use Safeguard and Ivermectin. Do both of those require a 10 day later redose? Is that just for goats that have problems getting rid of the worms?
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04/02/08, 09:59 PM
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Fergusons Family Farm
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 1,326
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The Lifecycle of almost all worms is 21 Days, Deworming again at 21 days will kill all newly hatched eggs.
We were just taking this at school (College)
Melissa
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04/02/08, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 24,108
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hmmmm....this is news to me! I never did that with the horses????????????? And I haven't done it with the goats??????
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Teach only Love...for that is what You are
Last edited by Minelson; 04/02/08 at 10:51 PM.
Reason: added goats
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04/14/08, 10:25 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 641
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I know I had to redose my litter of puppies in 10 days to completely rid them of worms. I have heard from some people that they do that with their goats. I'm just not sure what to listen to. I just dewormed everyone with Safeguard and I repeated it in 10 days, just to be sure. I don't use Safeguard often but I did this time.
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04/14/08, 10:37 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 693
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Repeat in 10 days for both. I usually shift the herd into a special area for 12 hours after each dosage, to keep the adult worms out of their pasture etc.
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~ Kristen in SE Nebraska
Raising Nubian, Alpine, First Gen. Mini's & cross breed dairy goats. Est. 2004 www.LomahAcres.com
& Handmade Children's items KootieZ.com & Our Etsy Shop
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04/15/08, 06:27 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: northern Idaho
Posts: 118
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The vet told us we would have to reworm our buckling, but he had gotten a bad case of worms (it was the first time we'd had a goat with worms so he became pretty sick before we got it taken care of). The rest of the herd just got one dose.
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04/16/08, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 970
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Depends on the parasites and your animals condition.
Life cylce is 14-21 days, you can actually look your parasite species up and figure this out for your self.
If you have animals that are not in good condition then they will benifit for a repeat deworming. If they are in lovely flesh and healthy other wise then once is enough.
The first dose kills the adult parasites that lay eggs, but this triggers the developing larvea to move to their primary site in the body and begin developing into adults. Coming back in a few weeks then kills off this next generation.
This gives the goat enough time to regain nutrients for it self, improve it's immune system enough to to hold the next population of parasites in check with better resistance.
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my posts and pictures are my exclusive property and may not be used without my permission.
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04/16/08, 12:13 PM
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mostly LaManchas
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,004
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Nice answer JO. 
If I want to get rid of worms and lice what do you recommend? (both product / combination, and timing?)
thx.
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04/16/08, 12:48 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 970
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#1 Proper supplementation. Parasites, external and internal are a sign that there is something lacking in the goats diet, something wrong with the goat's environment, or the methods of management being used. Goats need: excellent minerals, in particular copper, cobalt and selenium, depending on where you are. (copy what excellent breeders do in your area.)
They need good quality food. (grass ain't enough.) They need room and light.
Kelp improves food utilization and mineral conversion, it also has more than 40 bio-available minerals in it and can be a great supplement in times of stress and weather change. Folks who use kelp report less parasites and better feed utilization.
Eliminate sugar in the animals diet will keep flies, and lice down.
Chemical ways:
Medications: Lots of powders available for lice. Use them topically or in the bedding. Only class of wormer that kills lice and mites is ivermectin and it is most effective if used via injection, cattle 1% injectable.
Non-chemical ways: In spring, wash and clip the goats. Dust them with de (please do not breathe DE.) Make sure you offer supplements. Clean up enviroment, remove infected bedding, spray barn walls down with a natural pyremethin insecticide. Feed garlic (high in sulfur.) You will see a reduction a lice, and it will gradually fade away. Parasites like deficient hosts, so these problems become much more manageable when the animals health improves.
Increasing the amount of light in the barn may help. The tend to like the dark, like vampires.
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my posts and pictures are my exclusive property and may not be used without my permission.
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04/16/08, 01:09 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 970
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You cannot get rid of worms. These are symbiotic creatures; parasites do have a purpose in our domestic livestock. You can make it so that parasites are not real problem, by management and the the intelligent use of medications.
Parasites are a stimulant to the animals immune system, and also seems to help the gut ecology in times of feed change. (Which can kill a ruminant.) It's impossible to totally rid an animal of parasites, and this is not our goal. The better thing to do is to work on the animals immune system so it can easily handle the parasites in the environment that it has to deal with. The animals immune system hold parasites in check, and keeps them from killing the goat.
Minerals improve the immune system of the animal by improving the animals ability to resist invasions. Copper is such a fascinating mineral because it repels so many invaders, copper is always the first thing to look at when you are having problems with parasites. Sulphur seems to be connected with lice. Lice can sometimes be a sign that there is not enough sulphur available to the animal. This information you must find out through your local sources, it's not a good idea to add lots of individual minerals to the animals diet on the basis of one source of info, so check around in your area to see what is recommended.
Get fecal done to confirm what kind of parasites you have. Go look up the lifecycle of that parasite. Consider your own needs, are you going to be milking? Then fine tune your parasite control plan. it's hard to say exactly what you need to do. Generally, goats need de-worming after kidding and before breeding. Goats need de-worming when they are moved (Hi-Stress)
You may need to use a de-wormer therapeutically at certain times of the goats life (in times of illness) but all goats need a de-wormer as part of their regular maintainence.
When you need to do it is defined by their health and what their body condition is telling you, and if they are meeting your goals for them.
__________________
my posts and pictures are my exclusive property and may not be used without my permission.
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04/16/08, 01:32 PM
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mostly LaManchas
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,004
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I know that mine look copper deficient, some more than others. I have two 8 week old kids with bald tail tips. I have ordered the bolus stuff from valley vet.
For the worms an dlice , I know they will never really go away, I just meant manage, but good to clarify for everyone.
I was thinking of using safeguard orally, and either cylence or cydectin (don't remember which, sorry) topically. I used the Eprinex topically about 6 weeks ago for lice, and saw a big reduction, I missed the re-peat in 3 weeks. (I am not using the milk.)
I am sur ethe copper will help too, and getting the fleeces off the pygoras. I should get another kelp, I was told to use it, but not why.
Thanks!!
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04/16/08, 01:47 PM
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mostly LaManchas
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,004
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Well, the vet that is re-doing the disbudding on some of my kids (different vet that what messed up!) called to say the kids have cocci, as expected, so I asked him about the lice and worms, he recommended Dectomax. (injectable ivomec product) at 1cc/75 lbs. Of course most of us here seldom agree with vets, so what do YOU all think?
Should I use the safeguard orally and cydectin topically (or cylence topically);
Or should I believe the vet and use the dectomax subQ;
Use one then repeat with the other in 10 - 20 days?
Or, what are your suggestions and thoughts, experiences.
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