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  #1  
Old 03/12/08, 03:42 PM
ailsaek's Avatar  
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: MA (for now)
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Question Boer question

I'm still nowhere near being able to start my own herd, but the "Getting started with goats" thread got me wondering, so I thought I'd start a new one rather than hijack that one any further.

Is there any quick way to tell, when you are checking out a Boer breeder, whether their main purpose is show animals or food animals? When I do finally get goats, I don't want high-maintenance fancy critters, I want useful ones who can look out for themselves a bit. I mean, yes, I'd like them to be friendly, but I don't want to be constantly washing and brushing them or braiding ribbons in their beards or whatever.
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  #2  
Old 03/12/08, 04:46 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I have personally been finding that the ones that are crossed are usually looking for meat vs show. But sometimes it all runs together. I want good meat - but also milk - so my does are mixed breeds and I have a decent 100% buck to breed them to.

Best thing to do - just ask
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  #3  
Old 03/12/08, 04:51 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SW IA
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Look at how they are raising them, are they in dry lots with lots of grain being poured to them, or are they out foraging on their own?
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  #4  
Old 03/12/08, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Donovan, Illinois
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I love to show, and raise my goats with that as well as their meat in mind... HOWEVER, I do not want a bunch of hot-house goats on my property. LOL Keeping that in my head I searched for breeders with much the same type of set up I desired and ended up finding a lovely lady in Iowa (thanks Sher) who had the perfect buck (built like a Mac Truck) but who was pasture kept, and did well with minimal maintainance, and grass.

Look for that when you are thinking about starting your herd. If you want hardy animals that can survive on a pasture with run-ins, look for breeders who do the same. They're out there. They may not be the majority, but they are out there. At the same time, be sure those animals are healthy and vigorous. If they have previous breeding records it helps a lot to know how productive they are as well.
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  #5  
Old 03/12/08, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Jones Co, Texas
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Ask lots of questions, and look each animal over carefully.

Questions:
How often do you trim hooves?
(If the answer seem pretty often, weigh that in as something you'll have to take care of, and look at all the hooves. Do they look funny? Are they trimmed?)

Have you tested for CL or CAE?
(Lots of meat goat producers do not test, and more than a few do not even know what they are... those will be the ones that will look at you funny. Check the animal for any strange lumps, boils, etc. Does the animal seem to limp, or does its joints appear to be stiff)

How do you worm them, when have you wormed them, what have you used in the past? Do you do fecals, or have them done?
(Look at the skin beneath the lower eye lid. Is it pink, is it white? Is the goat's fur shiny, smooth, soft, or is it dull, wire like, rough, and/or falling out?)

How old is this goat?
(Look at her teeth, count the number of adult teeth and compare to what the owner told you. While looking at the teeth, look at the lips. Do they appear scabby or scarred? If so, this goat probably has sore mouth, which is not a deal breaker, but something you want your entire herd to have dealt with long before kidding time.)

If the breeder's answers to the above questions match up with what you observed on your own, then you might be able to trust what this person tells you about their breeding plan.

Also, look at the goat's udder. How many teats are there? It is acceptable for boers to have more than two, but take a good look at them. Are they really small, really large? Are there two teats connected (looks like a fish tail?) You want decent sized (but perhaps not too large) teats that are all about the same size. Avoid goats with the fishtail teats. One of them may work, but if you are planning on breeding, why add that to the herd from the start? You want a udder that appears well attached to the main body.

These are just a few basic things to look at that will give you an idea of the health of the goat, and perhaps if the breeder is just breeding together whatever he can to make money, or is actually trying to improve things. These things are even more important when you go looking for a buck. Remember that your buck is really half your herd, as that one buck can control what all of the offspring of your entire herd will look like.

Also, consider the build of the goat. This is easier to learn with photos, so check out:
Langston University Goat program. Basically a whole meat goat producer class for free.
http://www2.luresext.edu/goats/training/qa.html

Here is the chapter on what to look for:
http://www2.luresext.edu/goats/train...ement.html#vis

But check out this page of that class:
http://www2.luresext.edu/goats/training/marketing.html While it is the chapter about marketing, it has good photos of different conditions of goats.
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  #6  
Old 03/12/08, 10:02 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
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I sell my does for $150. Show goats sell for $300 and up, around here anyway.
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  #7  
Old 03/13/08, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Wisconsin
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Find out the breeders dress out percentages!
If they are being bred for meat then they person will know what the percentage of dress out weights run.

We have Boers and do nothing special.

Our goats have to be tough or they hit the pan fast.

I dont need to be putting my money in pampering my dinner.
I breed for hardy, disease resistant goats.
I also like to be as natural as possible or I would just go buy my meat in the store.

They have free from scrap wood make shift shelters, hay, open pasture, and grains only for breeding season and raising young.

I dont do shots or anything. All they get is wormed during the warm season.
They do get hooves trimmed regularly as I dont need my dinner going lame before I want to cook them.

My goats are healthy and I dont have probs with them.
They kid fine too.
Kids are tough and healthy.
No special care for them. No dipping navels or loading shots in them.
They birth as nature intended, without humans. We only butt in if something goes wrong like a kid needs to be turned.
Kids are weaned at 8 weeks.
They do just fine being goats without poodle pampering.
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  #8  
Old 03/13/08, 10:08 AM
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Location: Donovan, Illinois
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Quote:
They do get hooves trimmed regularly as I dont need my dinner going lame before I want to cook them.
I'm sorry, I'm laughing my butt off here. True, but very funny the way you put it.
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  #9  
Old 03/13/08, 10:12 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deetu View Post
I sell my does for $150. Show goats sell for $300 and up, around here anyway.
It is about the same here.
This is a good question. When I first started out someone told me to buy the best goats I could find with papers and that I would have to pay dearly for them. Believe me I have! Not only did I pay alot up front but have been "paying ever since" These were nice SA Boers well registered. I have had a terrible time with these goats with hooves and worms where as my Boer's that are crossed are great. My healthiest and best producing does are a dairy cross. I do have a very nice buck to cross them with.
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