Perhaps purchasing some Nigerian dwarf does? HELP!!!

[tbishop]

I've been reading this forum on and off for ages attempting to decide what I wanted for a dairy source on my homestead/pasture operation. The combination of the small size of the NDs and the fact that my friends raise Scottish Highlanders on the same property made me decide that the NDs would be the way to go.

NO sooner did I say that than I found a group of does that have been exposed to a buck for sale for a fairly low price. I don't want to miss an opportunity, but I don't want to go into a transaction without being as prepared as I can be.

I have asked who the breeder was, who the buck they were exposed to was. I have asked regarding health problems. I will let you know what answers if any I can get from them.

When I go to look at them, what should I look for? Are the lesions associated with the viral infections that goats get fairly visible? What should I look for regarding the udders and bag? What about ears and teeth? I know I should know this before considering a purchase, but life doesn't always go by my timing. Any suggestions/ help would be appreciated.

BTW, it's a group of 4 does and one doe kid.

Tim B.

[moonspinner]

I would not buy from anyone who does not test for CAE or practices strict prevention. Look for overall herd health - are the goats in good coat, good weight, clear eyes and nose? Active? As you examine the individuals you are going to purchase feel for any lumps. You may run into injection lumps which is fine, but otherwise a red flag should go up. The goats should be free of soremouth. Are the hooves in good shape? Watch for any signs of limping. You probably won't see much in udder if the does have just been bred. Examine for any teat abnormalities and decent attachments. Ask if they've been vaccinated for CD&T although some keepers don't.
Take a look at the buck too and see if he has any outward faults/health issues.

[pookshollow]

Have these does ever been milked? If not, they wouldn't be the best for you to learn on.

I sold a couple of little Nigie wethers on Friday, and started milking their momma this weekend. Hoo boy! Actually she's pretty good, but she's three years old, not been handled much, so she's not sure about the whole thing - and her teats are tiny! She does like the fact that she gets to eat without her big mean sister chasing her off, but she's inclined to collapse in the middle - her back legs start sliding back, so I find myself milking with one hand and kind of supporting her with the other. I'm getting about 1 cup of milk at each milking - very rich and sweet, mind you! - but my Saanen gives me over 2 litres at each milking with a lot less effort.

[AnnaS]

In addition to all the other good advice here, I would suggest you milk out all the does you are considering. Does may give you a funny look and shift a little but they should be okay with letting a stranger milk them. Kicking and lying down are unacceptable. Nigerians also have very small teats so they can take longer to milk than a standard breed giving 3x as much milk. These does should all still be in milk unless they are due in the next two months.

Are these does registered with ADGA and/or AGS? Not that papers would make a difference for home use, but I have seen quite a few "unregistered purebred Nigerians" sold at auction that were plainly Pygmies. A Pygmy doe would bring $30, a doe represented as an unregistered Nigerian would bring $200+. The market for Nigerians is strong and it would be worth your while to have registered animals since you will be having kids anyway.

That said, there are some really excellent Nigerian breeders in MN. Can I ask who the seller is?

[PygmyLover]

Well I disagree on the CAE. I personally will buy from people who do not test because I don't test. To me if they are for personal use then why bother. If there was something you could do to cure the disease then yes I would but even negative does can all of a sudden become positive! So to me it doesn't matter.

As to the stated price of pygmies I sold my wether for $75.00 and I bought my does for $100 each and he was giving me a deal (normal price $150.00) So they can be well priced as well. And these are unregistard.

[AnnaS]

Originally Posted by PygmyLover

As to the stated price of pygmies I sold my wether for $75.00 and I bought my does for $100 each and he was giving me a deal (normal price $150.00) So they can be well priced as well. And these are unregistard.

The prices I'm quoting are from the large sheep/goat auctions in MN- where tbishop is. That is what the market is here. New Jersey may be a whole 'nother market.

[PygmyLover]

Well I think that if the breeders wanted to they could sell them for more. I could sell my wethers for 50.00 but I decided I put to much into them to sell them for so little so I waited till I had someone willing to pay that much. Simple as that.

I know different areas tend to have differing prices but I really hate it when people pass over the pygmies and sell them like they are worth nothing.

And I feel the same when they do that for the dairy breeds too.

[tavia]

We almost got some Nigerian Dwarfs this summer when we were looking for a fresh milk supply. We liked the idea that they were small. Large dairy goats seemed like thet would be hard to deal with...
Well we ended up getting nubians and alpines and I'm so glad!! After talking to people who had NigDwarfs, it seemed like they really didn't produce enough milk to make it worth it. No one ended up bothering to milk them.
Our full size dairy goats are seasoned milkers, very gentle, sweet and friendly, easy to handle and catch, and produce lots and lots of delicious milk.
Just my 2cents, I hope you make a decision you are happy with....

[PygmyLover]

I agree if you are looking for a large quantity of milk nigerians aren't for you. And by large I mean a gallon plus a day.

[tbishop]

Originally Posted by AnnaS

That said, there are some really excellent Nigerian breeders in MN. Can I ask who the seller is?

They were bought this spring and the guy doesn't want them. I am still tracking down the particulars. I"m going in with my antennae up, but I don't think he's looking to rip anyone off- just get rid of the goats.

I still haven't gotten an answer as to what buck the goats were exposed to, but I know that the one kid turns out to be a boer/ND cross, so we'll see.

Beyond anything else, the price is really reasonable. If they aren't sold by Saturday, I'm going to go look at them.

Tim B.

[ozark_jewels]

Do be aware that if you want to have papered ND's, ADGA will not allow you to ever register anything with Boer blood. So if they are bred Boer, then all the kids will forever be grades.
Also......if these are "real" ND's, they may have trouble having full-size Boer kids......Boer kids can be quite chunky......

[ozark_jewels]

Also, look very, very, very carefully for any lumps, bumps or scars in the neck, jaw, chest, under the ear or the udder areas. If they have these at all......I would be very wary of buying. CL is a horrible disease to bring home.......

[tbishop]

Originally Posted by ozark_jewels

Also, look very, very, very carefully for any lumps, bumps or scars in the neck, jaw, chest, under the ear or the udder areas. If they have these at all......I would be very wary of buying. CL is a horrible disease to bring home.......

Thank you- this was exactly what I was looking for. I believe the Boer/ND breeding was done prior to ownership by this person, as the doe is 6 months. I will find out who the buck was that they were exposed to.

Tim B.

[Trisha-MN]

Originally Posted by tbishop

The combination of the small size of the NDs and the fact that my friends raise Scottish Highlanders on the same property made me decide that the NDs would be the way to go.

I have asked who the breeder was, who the buck they were exposed to was. I have asked regarding health problems. I will let you know what answers if any I can get from them.

You've gotten some good advice from others so I'd just like to add that NDs being small are not always the easiest to fence so keep that in mind. They can squeeze though really small spots and also jump climb up/over things!

I'd really find out more about the buck used. I know you have asked but I'd keep asking

Just my 2 cents.

[tbishop]

You guys are gonna hate this- the buck they were exposed to is a Nigerian/pygmy cross. I don't know.... But I can't help but go look.

Tim B.

[PygmyLover]

why is that a problem? They make great crosses. I am doing that myself in a few weeks.

if you want purbred kids in the future just be sure to use a nigerian buck next time. This time around it doesn't matter. They can always be breed again next year.

[ozark_jewels]

Originally Posted by tbishop

You guys are gonna hate this- the buck they were exposed to is a Nigerian/pygmy cross. I don't know.... But I can't help but go look.

Tim B.

Hey, its better than a fullsize buck!! Less probability of kidding problems. Of course there again, the kids will not be registerable as they will have pygmy blood......but theres always next year and registered doesn't matter to some folks.

[tbishop]

I'm just intrigued by the opportunity to learn with a lower cost option. The guy want's $325 for the 4 of them. I started my rabbits with cross-bred mini lops and now have a couple I paid $100 for. I'm glad I learned on the lower-initial-cost rabbits. I'm hoping the goats work the same for me.

On an entirely different note, i just found a place 5 miles out that has 40 acres. I don't even want to talk about it.

Tim B.

[PygmyLover]

that is 81.25 a piece, that is a good deal I hate to tell you. I would go for it! Plus some are potentially pregnant, with a few a piece, that will bring you in money right off.

[tbishop]

Yeah I might not be able to wait until Saturday. Anyone want to buy a '64 International pickup with potential? I may need some cash.

Tim B.