Preparing pasture for raising beef - help please!

[Filson]

Hey guys and gals,

My wife and I have recently moved into a 40 acre farm in NE Washington state, and while we were both raised out in the country, neither of us where ever around a farm. We plan on raising a couple beef steers for the first time in our lives, and on our farm we have a large (to us) 13 acre field that we plan to utilize for our beef.

While I don't know what I don't know, as I said before, I do realize the field looks rough. The previous owners used to raise sheep around the place, but it has been little used over the past few years, except last year, they let the neighbors cattle free-range across the property.

Some of the issues I see, is that in some areas of the field, there are a lot of weeds of some kind (I'm not from this side of the mountains, and am unfamiliar with a lot of the plant life around here). There are several different types of weeds I see, and while some of them are in very small quantities spread about, some are thick and look like they're choking out the grass. I'll post a bunch of pics below of specific weeds, and general shots of the field so you can see what I'm talking about.

Also, there are tons of ground squirrels in the lower part of the field (I'd estimate around 200-300 holes, some pretty small, but a few large enough to swallow a soccer ball. I need to contact the local office to see if they are protected in this area, if I need a permit, or whatever. But according to several of the locals verbally (as well as me seeing it in action) it's pretty normal for farmers in the area to shoot them. Only reason I brought up the ground squirrels is for confirmation that they can be a hazard to the cattle when we get them, not methods for taking care of them, as that is a local jurisdiction issue.

Anyway, back to the field itself. Another thing that may complicate preparing the field for use, is our well, as well as an underground spring/holding tank are placed in two different locations within the field. I'd assume cattle should be prevent from getting too close to our freshwater source?

So what things would you guys/gals recommend doing to start prepping the field for beef? Would you spray the weeds with something? Would the cattle naturally cut down on the weeds over time?

I plan to implement a rotational grazing method, but will save that for another post. Thanks for your time!



The purplish-blue line is the property boundary. The red lines are current fencing. The whole property is slopped. The top left corner is the highest point. The property extends further up, but was just focusing on the field itself. The large field in the bottom right is right about 13 acres.



This is looking up the hill from just outside the field. Much of the fencing needs reinforcement. Also, the tumbleweed-like stuff is very dense (as seen in the pic) for the lower part of the field. I have no idea what kind of plant this is.



These are dotted around roughly half the field.



Not sure what these tall things are either.



The spring/holding tank, looking down across the big field at the house.



Looking north. Showing the amount of weeds in most of the field (some areas have more, some less).



Looking south.



The very southwest corner of the field looks almost mowed or recently grazed. (Poor picture quality makes it look like the short grass extends down towards the house quite a ways, but it turns into waist-high stuff half-way down.



Our drilled well - should I put a fence up around?

Anyway, enough rambling and picture-showing. Sorry for all the silly newbie questions, and thanks for any help!

[Filson]

No replies... Should I assume that I'm over-thinking the whole thing, and that the field is good to go?

[Gravytrain]

Originally Posted by Filson

No replies... Should I assume that I'm over-thinking the whole thing, and that the field is good to go?

Maybe. I'm not familiar with your area, your forage, OR tumbleweed. Make sure your perimeter fence is robust with electric. Get a couple rolls of polywire/polyrope, some reels, and some pigtail posts. Either set up a lane with water/mineral and shelter or make it portable daily. Start with a couple of steers.

Give them 1000-1500 sq. ft. a day and see how much forage is left at the end of the day. If it's overgrazed, then move them twice per day or give them a slightly larger area. With that much area and so few cows you should be able to give the pasture a good amount of rest between grazings and your pasture should improve. You may want to overseed just before or just after moving the cattle. Dragging a chain or spike harrow after you've moved the cattle will help distribute the manure more evenly. You also may want to either spot treat weedy areas or just mow after moving the animals as well.

You'll know how you're doing by how your pasture and your animals look after awhile. Read the rotational grazing sticky in this forum. It will impart far more wisdom than you could possibly get from me on this subject.

[idigbeets]

It actually does not look THAT bad... it does need some diversity, clover, alfalfa, and some other grasses. The fence looks in rough shape in those photos... I'd mow off the dead stuff, and see how things grow, give them a small area as suggested. Also, make sure you have get some hay stored up....

[G. Seddon]

Looks like a beautiful property to me! I agree with idigbeets on the mowing, but first
I'd get the agricultural extension agent out to look at it and make recommendations on getting it ready for grazing.

[Wanda]

Since most of us have no experience in your location ,it is hard to give specific answers. As a whole the pasture looks to be suitable for grazing beef steers. I would look at other pasture in your area as a rough comparison. As far as the well area I would put up a small fence to keep them from doing any damage.

[Patchouli]

The fuzzy leaved plant is Mullein. It has some uses as an herb but it basically grows in places with bad soil. Looks like you may have some dock too. No tumbleweeds those are just stalks left from various useless weeds. What was on the land last? The soil looks poor to me from what is growing there and probably over grazed.

[Filson]

Thanks for the replies,

The previous owners of the place used to raise sheep here, but last year they let a neighbor bring their 50 head of cattle on to the property to free range.

The fence really does need a lot of work, some areas, the fence is all the way on the ground. Some of the new fence posts that are in place from the previous owners are only in the ground a few inches to a foot and are already loose.

Gravytrain - thanks for the info! Sounds like I have some supplies to pick up =)

Idigbeets - Thank you, just as a rough average, how much hay should I have stored up, per head, per day? I'll times that by how long I may need it for this area during the winter.

Thanks again everyone!

[Gravytrain]

Originally Posted by Filson

Thanks for the replies,



Gravytrain - thanks for the info! Sounds like I have some supplies to pick up =)

Idigbeets - Thank you, just as a rough average, how much hay should I have stored up, per head, per day? I'll times that by how long I may need it for this area during the winter.

Thanks again everyone!

You're welcome. Just to emphasize, MAKE SURE your outside perimeter fence is darn near bulletproof before you make interior paddocks with single strand polywire/polyrope. It really is no fun chasing down livestock in the middle of a thunderstorm in the middle of the night. Guess how I know? If they are secure on your property it really doesn't matter if they jump the polywire, which will probably be rare.

As far as hay, figure 2.5% of their weight in hay per day. Then figure they'll be eating hay a month or two longer than you think they will...at least for the first year or two. Remember, even though things start greening up early in the spring, you don't really want to graze until your grass is AT LEAST 8-10" high for most varieties. It's better to have too much hay than too little. You can always feed some of it in the summer on pasture to stimulate the rumen and help build your pasture (as long as it isn't too weedy).

[M88A1]

Do you have a breed in mind you want to raise? That can determine how many cattle you can handle and do you plan to over-winter them?

[idigbeets]

Originally Posted by Filson

Thanks for the replies,



Idigbeets - Thank you, just as a rough average, how much hay should I have stored up, per head, per day? I'll times that by how long I may need it for this area during the winter.

Thanks again everyone!

Full grown cattle should be eating around 3% body weight of dry matter, little more during lactations.

We feed high moisture baleage of alfalfa, clover, orchard grass, sometimes barley/vetch bales, 4x5, which is baled around 40% moisture. So we feed 2 full bales per day for approx 30-35 brood cows and their calves. In the winter we will also feed a dry round bale as needed, go through about 12-15 a winter.

The steers and replacement heifers are of various sizes, about 25 of them and they get a full bale per day.

If you are feeding squares, there are approx. 15 square bales to 1 round bale.

[Spamela]

What a beautiful place! Jealous!

[idigbeets]

If you haven't decided on a breed, I'd go with Angus personally, or a cross like LimFlex or Brangus as they can withstand being outdoors 24/7 w/out shelter.

[Filson]

Thanks for the information guys!

For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.

I'm strictly interested in raising beef, not milk (at least for the time). I am not sure how long I will keep them, but I think I'll be aiming for 2-3 years each. I'd like to do a longer finish on corn feed to increase marbling. I'll try straight pasture fed too at some time, but I've always had the notion to want to try corn fed, sense the idea of raising beef came to mind.

My ultimate goal is to grow my family's yearly beef needs, that is both as high of grade of meat as I can produce (I realize it wont actually be graded, but you know what I mean) while also being free of any growth hormones and such.

I'm a BBQ and grilling junky and I looove highly marbled meat. I'd love to fill my freezer every year with tastier meat than I can find anywhere locally, even if that kicks up the cost a bit.

Side note: I realize on a 1200lb live weight steer, I could expect around 450-550lbs of freezer meat, which is about right for my family for the year... But just how long does beef stay good in the freezer??

[JulieLou42]

Originally Posted by Filson

Thanks for the information guys!

For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.

I'm strictly interested in raising beef, not milk (at least for the time). I am not sure how long I will keep them, but I think I'll be aiming for 2-3 years each. I'd like to do a longer finish on corn feed to increase marbling. I'll try straight pasture fed too at some time, but I've always had the notion to want to try corn fed, sense the idea of raising beef came to mind.

My ultimate goal is to grow my family's yearly beef needs, that is both as high of grade of meat as I can produce (I realize it wont actually be graded, but you know what I mean) while also being free of any growth hormones and such.

I'm a BBQ and grilling junky and I looove highly marbled meat. I'd love to fill my freezer every year with tastier meat than I can find anywhere locally, even if that kicks up the cost a bit.

Side note: I realize on a 1200lb live weight steer, I could expect around 450-550lbs of freezer meat, which is about right for my family for the year... But just how long does beef stay good in the freezer??

Ground beef lasts and tastes great for 2 years...speaking for personal experience here...but all other cuts, the fat tastes a bit off after six months, but it isn't harmful to eat.

[JulieLou42]

Originally Posted by Filson

Thanks for the information guys!

For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.

I'm strictly interested in raising beef, not milk (at least for the time). I am not sure how long I will keep them, but I think I'll be aiming for 2-3 years each. I'd like to do a longer finish on corn feed to increase marbling. I'll try straight pasture fed too at some time, but I've always had the notion to want to try corn fed, sense the idea of raising beef came to mind.

My ultimate goal is to grow my family's yearly beef needs, that is both as high of grade of meat as I can produce (I realize it wont actually be graded, but you know what I mean) while also being free of any growth hormones and such.

I'm a BBQ and grilling junky and I looove highly marbled meat. I'd love to fill my freezer every year with tastier meat than I can find anywhere locally, even if that kicks up the cost a bit.

Side note: I realize on a 1200lb live weight steer, I could expect around 450-550lbs of freezer meat, which is about right for my family for the year... But just how long does beef stay good in the freezer??

Ground beef lasts and tastes great for 2 years...speaking from personal experience here...but all other cuts, the fat tastes a bit off after six months, but it isn't harmful to eat, that I know of.

[WadeFisher]

Originally Posted by DoubleR

We have meat sit in our freezer for 2-3 years and it's just fine. A lot probably depends on how it's wrapped though. We go old school paper wrapping.

Professionally vacuum packed and flash froze to -30F will last the longest. Most processors offer this service.

And if your going to keep it longer then usual, make sure you get a home freezer that holds -10F or lower.

[WadeFisher]

Filson;
FIRST;Soil analysis then amend as recommended for pH and Nutrients.

Keep weeds mowed and the grasses should fill in nicely. Over-seed if you want to encourage other species of grass. This is easy and inexpensive.
If your only raising a few beef for yourself on 13 acres I'm not sure you need to do an intensive rotation. I am too lazy to move animals every few days but I have the luxury of more acres then the animals need so I only move between a few pastures on a monthly basis. Each situation is different.
BUT.
You MUST have your perimeter fence "bullet proof" as previously stated!
For me the minimum on the perimeter is 3 strands of electric. This is a minimum and you should check it regularly. Physically walk (drive) the perimeter and test electric output with a fence tester as often as you can. Especially after a storm.

Do you have a tractor?
A small tractor with a mower and a spreading does alot of pasture rehabilitation and maintenance. With a 40 acre homestead it would be a must-have on my list.

[Rocky Fields]

The sloped property really brings out the beautiful view.

Put fencing around your pipe stubs. Grow some corn for finishing the calves.

[oregon woodsmok]

There's not much to eat, there.

I can see some knapweed and some mullein and suggest that you spot spray that with herbicide before you bring the cattle. Roundup makes a blackberry killer that will kill knapweed if you keep after it. It doesn't do any good to pull it. Another plant will come up from every little bit of root that is left in the ground.

I'd top seed and hope for some rain. I like the native bluegrass and some orchard grass for pasture on the dry side of the PNW. You can put out some seed oats, too, to give the pasture a jump start. It will give you some nice forage but it won't come back the next year.

That's a beautiful property but the pasture looks badly over-grazed. It will come back if you baby it for a couple of years. Don't put too many animals on it until it recovers. ( 2 cows won't be a problem this year, but 50 head is flat out abuse.)