?? 2WD or 4WD ??

HDRider · #1 04/08/12, 06:54 AM

I am trying to decide between 2 and 4 wheel drive. Please share with me why I would go the extra expense of 4WD? The purchase price difference is not all that much, maybe 4%, but there is the extra maintenance cost for the 4WD over time.

The tractor will be used all year long moving hay, sometime in snow (not much), sometimes in ice (even less), sometimes in mud (fairly often) and mostly on firm soil.

I will use the tractor to cut and bale hay, and general utility, with a frontend loader.

This will be my only tractor to use on my 150 acre cow/calf operation.

I am set on Kubota, in the 60 - 70 HP range. Should I go 2WD or 4 WD??

?? 2WD or 4WD ?? - Cattle

ksfarmer · #2 04/08/12, 07:51 AM

Go with the front assist. You won't be sorry. With a loaded bucket, it can be difficult to back up in slick conditions because of the weight transfer to the front. This can be helped by weighting the rear tires, but 4-wheel drive is much better in my opinion.

willow_girl · #3 04/08/12, 08:00 AM

I agree.

HDRider · #4 04/08/12, 08:19 AM

Thanks

See this link at Cattle Today for good info.

http://www.cattletoday.com/forum/vie...p?f=10&t=76936

BlackWillowFarm · #5 04/08/12, 08:25 AM

It's better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. We have a JD subcompact for our small acreage and it's been a godsend, especially the 4WD.

springvalley · #6 04/08/12, 08:32 AM

I used a front wheel assist a few years ago, and while they are nice, I made up my mind the tractor would have to have a cab. In a high gear they throw a lot of crap up at ya if you don`t have one. I don`t know how much your going to use yours for things like that, but a cab is a good investment, in the winter for sure. Guess you may not need the cab , as I see where your at now. Things to think about. > Thanks Marc

SCRancher · #7 04/08/12, 09:56 AM

4W my vote

agmantoo · #8 04/08/12, 10:33 AM

HDRider

At the other site you referenced I saw the baler that you are considering. I believe you need to up the horsepower another 10+. I never like to run any machine at its peak HP constantly and you are only slightly above the requirement. I really like to observe the engine and the drive train of any machine I purchase and I like to have an engine and drive train in the mid range of where I will be operating. Often the same engine is spread over 30 to 40 HP or more and the same with the drive train. For my ownership I do not want an engine that was designed to operate at 50 HP and with a transmission to match with the fuel turned up to make 80 HP. I had rather have a 80 HP peak/maximum engine design running at 50 HP with an over built transmission. Did I ever tell you I seldom have any tractor problems? I normally buy used low hour equipment and I am seldom disappointed and I save a lot of money. I have no idea as to why this tractor would have a new set of rear tires!
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings...?OHID=6668617&

myersfarm · #9 04/08/12, 11:28 AM

Front wheel assist will pack mud...2 wheel will make ruts in mud....going though gates in the same ruts that will make a big difference...and yes CABS are great...if nothing else keeping the dust out of your lungs when you bale

HDRider · #10 04/08/12, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agmantoo

HDRider

At the other site you referenced I saw the baler that you are considering. I believe you need to up the horsepower another 10+. I never like to run any machine at its peak HP constantly and you are only slightly above the requirement. I really like to observe the engine and the drive train of any machine I purchase and I like to have an engine and drive train in the mid range of where I will be operating. Often the same engine is spread over 30 to 40 HP or more and the same with the drive train. For my ownership I do not want an engine that was designed to operate at 50 HP and with a transmission to match with the fuel turned up to make 80 HP. I had rather have a 80 HP peak/maximum engine design running at 50 HP with an over built transmission. Did I ever tell you I seldom have any tractor problems? I normally buy used low hour equipment and I am seldom disappointed and I save a lot of money. I have no idea as to why this tractor would have a new set of rear tires!
2005 KUBOTA M95S 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com

Thanks Agman,

Do you have a baler preference? I am stuck on Kubota tractors, and most everyone is saying go 4WD. Considering the baler requirements, what HP would you recommend? I want a simple baler, maybe with netting.

I do like that 2005 KUBOTA M95S. I really don't want a cab, with A/C and all. I want simple, with less doodads to break down.

BTW - I will definitely go used on everything.

PS - I bet your grass looks good. All this rain and sonshine is gotta be good for your grass.

littlejoe · #11 04/08/12, 04:38 PM

If possible $, I'd definately go for the assist. I figure the added maintenance will be covered by the gain in lost time using 2WD only. and added maintenance should be minimal. A 2WD you'll have to chain up to push much snow, nothings good on ice. If you're using it as a farm tractor and spin out, you can kick the assist in and get out of a bad spot and wait. You might be able to walk yourself out with the bucket? but if you're just on slick conditions, you've lost the use of your bucket by doing that.

As agman said, definately make sure you exceed your needs.

springvalley · #12 04/08/12, 05:46 PM

You should really get a cab if your going to bale with your tractor. I bought a round baler three years ago and use my cab tractor to bale, and would not bale without it. Those windy,dusty nasty days you will thank us all for that cab, trust me on this. I don`t like cabs any more than you do, but comes a time you should really have one. We were looking at the Kubota 95 hp tractor a few years ago, I like them a lot, but the new price tag had to wait for now. Good luck, and blessings. > Marc

Allen W · #13 04/08/12, 06:00 PM

I was told kubota hp ratings were engine hp that actual draw bar or PTO hp was lower, something to check out before you buy.

HDRider · #14 04/08/12, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen W

I was told kubota hp ratings were engine hp that actual draw bar or PTO hp was lower, something to check out before you buy.

It actually says Engine HP on their spec page. Did not see any other HP specs.

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Tractors | M Series | M40 Series M5140/M6040/M7040/M8540/M9540

agmantoo · #15 04/08/12, 07:44 PM

The Kubota M95S Power is:
Engine (net): 95 hp [70.8 kW]
PTO (claimed): 84 hp [62.6 kW]

I believe the drawbar would be even less!

Regardless, that tractor should handle the baler listed above with ease on hills or flat ground. Stopping is more important that pulling is some instances. I do not like tractors that are high revving to make horsepower at 540 PTO however.

coolrunnin · #16 04/08/12, 07:51 PM

Spec sheet is showing 46/56 pto hp. for the 51 series and 64/76 pto hp. for the 70 series. Its posted right beneath engine horsepower.

Madsaw · #17 04/09/12, 11:29 AM

I vote for the 4wd. I wish I could afford one. Here in southern wis during mud season(4-6 months out of 12) They would be great.
If your looking for a good used simple round baler. Look for a Gehl 1310?OMC 590. They make a 600-800 pound bale depending on the moisture. Can bale even wet crops for silage bale and also do corn fodder. Can't get much simpler then the drum balers. Also the soft center bales can be baled a bit damper then the soild centers. They do breath in the field and more palatabe and easier for cattle to eat. I have used one for many yrs and have baled atlest 25,000 if not 30,000 through ours. The plus is on level ground a 50 hp tractor runs them just fine. I use our 730 diesel case any more. Just a tad over idle it works great.
Bob

haypoint · #18 04/09/12, 04:21 PM

Jes go with 2 wheel drive and carry a couple chains and a pair of oak 4x4s about 6 feet long. Every time you get stuck, use those chains to lash the 4 x 4 across the face of the tire. Then the tractor can "climb" out of the mud and onto the 4 x4s. Then unlash them, shake the mud off the chains, scrape the mud off the 4 x 4s and continue on your way. Be aware that the front of the tractor can lift up, sometimes flipping the tractor, pinning you under it. But if it is that muddy, it might just shove you into the mud, until help arrives.
Also, when you get almost hooked to a wagon or implement and the rear tires are spinning, you can use those 4 x 4s to pry against the front of the tractor, to get it to back that tiny bit that you need. You may need both 4 x 4s, one to pry and one to brace the pry 4 x4 , while you run back and get the pin in the wagon tounge.

Yes, I'm kidding. I live on clay soil in an area that has snow 6 months of the year and I hate being stuck.

sammyd · #19 04/09/12, 09:21 PM

no farming ever got done before 4wd tractors showed up.

Madsaw · #20 04/09/12, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sammyd

no farming ever got done before 4wd tractors showed up.

Sammy don't you know most folks are not used to running chains on their tractors 9 months out of the year like us from wisconsin. Not many place other then wisconsin will you find a farmer that will wear out a set of good tractor chains in a years time. LOL
I know what you mean though. The conveince of FWA is great though. Also a thing to consider too is maintence on FWA. I never been around one or worked on one. But considering more moving parts means more $$$$ to fix if it breaks. Plus it will also put more strain on the transmission when being used too.
Bob