Cost of fencing?

[IndyGardenGal]

We are having to fix/replace fencing on our property to hold dexters and possibly a lowline or two. What's the most cost efficient fencing option?

We were think about runing high-tensile electric (3 strands), but not sure how many strands to run hot. Also, how much does running electric on the fence change your electric bill?

Looking for the best suggestions for fencing...Thanks!

[haypoint]

Elect. fencers don't use much electricity.
High-tensile is a good way to go. Just make your corner post braces extra strong. This type of fence pulls hard on the corners. If you are only running three strands, I'd run them all hot.
Do not run your cornerr braces at an angle. The posts just get pryed out of the ground that way.

[topside1]

Hi... I run five strand 14ga aluminum wire on most of my acreage. I choose electric because of it's low initial cost and effectiveness. Your monthly elec. bill may rise a dollar but that's about it. I have steers, cows, and goats, believe me they respect the hot wire, never an escape here. Well unless I leave a gate open. Best advice I could give you is to buy the best charger that you can afford, I'm happy with PARMAK (sp)...Topside

[IndyGardenGal]

Thanks for your responses. I finally got my husband to give in on dexters. He said he won't even bother with the lowlines if he can have a black polled bull.

Topside: do you run all 5 wires hot?

Also, do you use any type of back up measures in the case that the power goes out?

[topside1]

Indy, all five are hot....You'll only need four strands for Dexters....Kidding...No back up measures, after a ZAP or two that's all they remember. Dumb as they are, they do have good memories...Topside

[IndyGardenGal]

Thanks for your help. I just need to find the best place for the fencing materials!

[Farm 36]

To fence with electric can be a cheaper way to build a fence to hold cattle in . If you want to run high tensil you need at least 3 wires or more and can run a single but never two because if an animal can get wraped in the wire easier. Running all hot or one cold depends on your soil and moisture content. The shock has to find a way back to the fencer to get the shock . The cold wire is hocked to the fencer and is grounded to the ground in the pasture in several spots you will have a very hot fence.Running a fence with a cold wire takes a smarter person to fix or check because you always have to keep track of that cold wire .Rember a good fence makes happy neighbors.I have built high tensil fence prefessonally in many areas and can give advise on how to make a fence that keeps animals in.

[twohunnyz]

Originally Posted by Farm 36

I have built high tensil fence prefessonally in many areas and can give advise on how to make a fence that keeps animals in.

Farm36, I'd definitely be interested in hearing fencing advice from you! Either PM me, or start a new thread for the benefit of others (my preference).

Here is my situation- we will be moving to 40 acres of raw land next year; we plan to have a few head of Milking Devon cattle, hair sheep, pastured poultry, small pigs; we will use rotational grazing system; our land is in an area with moose, deer, coyotes, and mountain lions; we will be on solar power only; need a fence that is quick to put up, easy to maintain, relatively cost efficient.

Fire away!

Krystal

[Trisha in WA]

Indy,
I really like our high tensile fence too. I have 5 strands with the bottom one at 6" being grounded and the second to the top one grounded. But I keep horses as well as cattle. For just cattle I would probably use only 3 wires. The ONLY thing I don't really like about it is that it isn't very visible, but that can be easily remedied with flag tape.
Krystal, I have a fencing guide you are welcome to borrow. You will obviously want to fence your perimeter to the hardest critter to contain...the hair sheep would be my guess on that list. Though I would probably do 5 wires in your situation too, but maybe not quite as tall as mine. Again because of our horses, when we are in the same situation next year, I will probably run 7 wires since I need the height.
Trisha

[IndyGardenGal]

I think we're going to run all 5 strands hot, just to be on the safe side.

We have neighbors and part of our property is right behind their backyard (which isn't fenced). Does anyone know where I can find information as to the regs about electric fencing in terms of their property (it's all zoned agricultural out here).

[francismilker]

Question? Indy, if you're going to run a 5 wire electric, why not bite the bullet and run barbed wire. I realize the wire is more expensive and lighter weight and you'll have to use more posts, but it would last longer and be less tempermental with weed growth and troubleshooting.

[IndyGardenGal]

Would I have to run 5 wire with the barbed as well?

I am not worried so much about a slight difference in cost, but want to make sure we do it right.

DH prefers barbed over electric as it stands, but I want to make sure we cover all the bases

[francismilker]

I use four barbed wires for cross fences and five for road fences. Unless you have outlaw cows or your short on grass for them, that should take care of it. The only real problem I ever have with fences is mine and the neighbor's bull fighting through the fences and riding them down.

Here are some prices for you to consider in your decision: 2-point barbed wire approx. $70 per roll. (1320'), 6' T-post approx. $4 each. If you drive a T-post every 10' you could build 1/4 mile 5 wire fence for $878 not counting what you'd spend on stretch posts and concrete if you choose to use metal pipe as stretch braces. If the ground is flat I'd recommend putting stretch posts every 660'. If it is hilly, you'll possibly have to use more braces to help ya go up and down the slopes.

Barbed wire is considerably more expensive initially than electric. However, if done right it will be more dependable in the long run.

[Welshmom]

If you are going to be pasturing sheep and pigs as well, you will need a very, very tight, hot fence. I have limited experience with solar chargers, and it was very disappointing. They only kind of charger I'd want to use on a fence like you are describing is one that is plugged in. Perhaps there are some newer, better ones out there, but I've heard others not recc. solar for pigs (and I would guess sheep, but I don't have personal experience with them). I am a fan of high tensile electric, but maybe in your case barbed may be the way to go. Especially if you are going to experience deep snow.

Also, remember if you do go with electric, that every one of your animals needs to be trained to it before you let them out or you will have a regular round-up on your schedule. Training them means putting them inside an area with a physical barrier, and running the fence inside that, so they have the experience of being shocked and learning they have to back up, not go forward when they feel the shock.

Good luck!

[Trisha in WA]

Ya know, I missed the part about pigs. Pigs have very poor vision. I have found that hot tape or rope (the white electrified stuff) works very well for pigs...AFTER the training part Welshmom mentioned. You do need to check the fence daily to make sure they haven't rooted up next to it and shorted it out, but if they are on "pasture" that won't happen as often as when they are in a smaller pen.

[mysticokra]

I use 4 strands of high tensile wire with a 20 mile electrical box on it.
Be sure to put some stress relief in the system if you have trees near by.

Also, your bottom wire will probably short out if the weeds grow on it, but a good system will push enough juice through the others that the cows will still respect it.

My Dexters usually figure out that the fence is off about 3 days after it goes down. Failures range from a tripped GFIC plug to a limb across several wires.

Be aware that a properly motivated bull can get through almost any fence.


John Langlois
john.langlois@foggybottomwebdesign.com
www.foggybottomwebdesign.com
www.foggybottomfarms.com