Fence Tune up

farmerjon · #1 05/20/09, 08:21 AM

When we bought our farm there was an old fence that was installed around our pastures out back. For the past 2 years I have left the fence because I was only using it for grass hay and there was no livestock in the pasture. Now I want to fence one of the pastures in to let my cows back their. Most of the fence post are in desent shape. Almost the all of the fence has at least one strand of barbed on it. some areas have 2 or 3, but alot would at least have 2 when I go through and fix them and some areas will have 3. I hope this is making sence. Here is my question. How many strands of Hot should I use. I only have 5 soon to be 6 head. Its a about a 5 acre peice so I know there will be plenty to graze on. I was thinking only one, but I want someone to say yes to that also. I will do more if need be, but I dont want to waste time and money with so much going on right now time is hard to come by. Any ideas?

agmantoo · #2 05/20/09, 08:26 AM

One strand of high tensile 12 1/2 gauge wire and a very hot fence charger will suffice when used with the existing fence. More is always better but once you get the hot wire impregnated on the animals brain as to what it can and will do they will not test the fence. Do not make the mistake of using a low output fence charger. Just as a animal will learn to respect a high output shock they can and will learn to circumvent a low shock device and thus become increasingly difficult to retrain when you are forced to upgrade chargers.

farmerjon · #3 05/20/09, 09:36 AM

I have a zebra 10 mile charger. TS sku 3604104. Is this a decent charger to use for this? My wife and I work full time so I want to be able to know I have nothing to worry about. Also where should I run the line? between the top and middle or the middle and bottom line? I will have calves in this also.

agmantoo · #4 05/20/09, 09:45 AM

I would rate that zebra 10 mile charger right above stinging nettle. For the low end I would recommend a ParMak se4. For a really good charger a ParMak RM 1. Jeffers on the internet is a good souce. http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/...=&sort=&ipp=50

farmerjon · #5 05/20/09, 09:48 AM

one more thing. There will be a streach of about 75 to 100 feet that will need new post and has no barbeed wire across it. Should I use T post? I see the fiberglass post that you step in and have spots to run the wire already on them. Are these any good? will they get me through till I can put the wood post in. Hopefully this year but maybe next?

agmantoo · #6 05/20/09, 09:54 AM

You can purchase a PVC/fiberglass round post that will not need an insulator that will last years to go between the existing posts. Do not waste your money on the plastic step in posts. I failed to read that you will have calves also. If the calves have their mother with them they will stay inside the one wire or very nearby. If these calves do not have mom around they may get out with a single wire. You should have not less than 2 wires with the calves. One wire hot at around 14 inches and another hot around 30 inches. Ground the existing old fence wires also. If you have not read the sticky above on rotational grazing I suggest you do. You will see a PVC/fiberglass post there.

farmerjon · #7 05/20/09, 11:05 AM

ok, I will look into upgrading my charger. For now it will have to do. I think I will pick up the post you recomened. they look ez to use and I like the idea that they can be moved ez. This is only going to be a spring summer grazzing area. maybe 6 months a year. I just want to get them out there soon. Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend.

.netDude · #8 05/21/09, 07:43 PM

Just to add to what Agmantoo says, if the existing barb is in bad shape and isn't insulated, roll it up and get rid of it. I made the mistake of thinking that even in poor shape, it'd add at least some value to the single strand of 12.5ga hi ten I was adding. Well, on numerous occasions I've had to pull grounded barb of th hi ten since it was shorting it out. When I put up the hot wire, I had the barb sufficiently out of the way, or so I thought. A ground wire draped over your hot will draw most of the shock out of it.
For posts, when I had large sections to do I used the fiberglass step in's from tractor supply between either t posts or wood posts spaced very far apart. They support the wire, but also give it the flexibility it needs between posts. For those in between posts, get whatever is on sale.

genebo · #9 05/21/09, 08:47 PM

Do you have a USDA office near you? They print a great pamphlet on fence construction. I find the USDA people and their state counterparts to be very helpful. They are in the same office and the county extension agent is in the same building. Tons of expert help.

Genebo
Paradise Farm

farmerjon · #10 05/22/09, 09:20 AM

Thank you netdude, I was thinking of taking the old wire off myself. I think it would take less time to remove it than to fix it. I'm stopping today after work at TS. The wife works in the morining, but after that its non stop til its done this weekend. If I do remove the old wire do you think 2 strands would be ok?

.netDude · #11 05/22/09, 09:28 AM

I have one strand out back, but by the road, I have 3 (one hot between 2 new barbed), and borders I 'try' to have 3 - but 1 hot 12.5 ga hi tensile has been working great even in border areas as long as it's not too overgrown. If I were in a more populated area I'd beef it up; If I were running stockers I'd beef it up; through the woods I'd beef it up; through brush I'd beef it up.
My cow/calf herd is pretty docile, I've had polywire on the ground when the reel fell off the fence and they won't step over it. And, when I call them they come trotting. So it really depends on a lot of factors.