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  #21  
Old 12/23/03, 12:19 AM
Darren N.L.I.
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I know what you're saying about water's heat storage ability. Most folks think a Hahsa is the size of a commercial outside heater. If you build it to the designer's spec, it's much larger. There's a couple of truck loads of sand around the piping placed between the firebox and the outside walls. A Hahsa looks like a small outbuilding. With a firebox that takes whole pallets, it's big enough to walk into, you're looking at a big furnace with a lot of thermal storage capacity built in. With the use of concrete blocks and fire brick it will last longer than you will. The surprising part is supposedly it's more economical to fire than its steel counterparts.

The design is about as foolproof as you can get in an outside woodburning heater.
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  #22  
Old 12/23/03, 09:53 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,274
[QUOTE=johnkl]Darren, I beg to differ with your comments about sand holding more heat than water. On a volumetric basis water can store nearly twice as much heat as stone or sand, plus its a lot easier to move the heat when its stored in water.

John, I agree the heat holding ability of water is greater than sand. I also agree that its easier to take the heat out of the water. Isn't it possible though, that if the volume of the sand is much greater than the volume of the water, that the sand would hold not only more heat, but heat that wasn't captured in the water? And since the water runs through the sand.......
Wood burning devices are very inefficient. Most of the heat goes up the flue. Creosote avoidance calls for fast burns. Russian style fireplaces route the flue through lots of rock/brick to capture some of this.
I wonder about the copper in the sand. Should I pump the water or is convection enough? Should I have more than one circuit; like one on the sides and one around the flue? Should the flue have a steady incline? Someone said a tall stack improves the draw. Is a winding flue the same as a tall stack?
I really appreciate all the input, especially the cautions. Even if I don't want the water to boil, I guess the plumbing requires a vent of some sort.
You can bet I'll take pictures as I build this. Construction is set to begin after the spring thaw. gobug
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  #23  
Old 12/23/03, 10:22 AM
Darren N.L.I.
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Gobug, it would be worth your while to contact Darby Industries and get a set of their Hahsa plans. While they've discontinued selling parts, the plans are still available. Everything needed to buy and build the parts is there. I had looked for info related to the last generation of steam locamotive design (in South America) that had improved efficiency.

The Hahsa is a simply design. It might do what you want without modification.
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  #24  
Old 12/25/03, 11:54 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 14
I have a Heatsource 1 outdoor wood stove and i can heat 6500sqr. ft. with roughly 10 pulp cord a year.2400 sqr. ft. is my shop with to overhead doors that i,m in and out of all the time.To controll the water temp of the hot water heater just use a mixing valve on the hot water output.We also sell these stoves as dual fuel units with there own back up built in.
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  #25  
Old 12/26/03, 04:02 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,274
Thanks Darren, I searched on Darby Industries and the search showed "Hasha" in the excerpt from the search engine. Their website omitted "Hasha." I e-mailed them and asked if plans were available. gobug
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  #26  
Old 12/26/03, 04:30 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,274
Thanks for the lead Craig, I studied their website. I like the automatic fan driven combustion chamber. I also like the stainless steel water jacket. I didn't find prices. Could you share what you paid?

My site is perfect for a solar home, and I would be remiss to not take full advantage. I'm sure my future home will not need to use gas, electric, or wood as a heat source. My problem or goal is to use up all the dead wood laying on the ground. Since the existing garage is not solar, and doesn't have a floor, I was thinking I could solve two problems at once (heat the garage, eliminate the dead wood). The Heatsource machine seems to be well designed for daily use in a colder climate than my site. If the Heatsource machine costs more than $1500, it would probably be better to retrofit the garage to be solar. I still have to deal with the dead wood. gobug
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  #27  
Old 12/27/03, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in the USSR
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The last time I talked to someone at Darby Industries. they told me that their other businesses had grown so much say would offer Hahsa plans only. Earlier this year they had a Hahsa website. That's been taken down.
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  #28  
Old 12/27/03, 04:40 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: South West MI
Posts: 932
There's a guy that runs an alternative energy website. He has built a couple of hahsa units. Says to keep the sand wet for better storage and transfer.

mikell

http://ww2.green-trust.org:8383/
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