Are 2x6 walls worth the extra expense?

To a degree more insulation is better-you do realize, of course, that ventilation becomes very important in tightly built homes? Air quality can be very bad in a modern house that isn't ventilated well...try to avoid using electrical ventilation systems though. Would save a lot of energy to avoid that stuff. A home can be designed to not need all that stuff-look at how homes were vented in the 1800's or so to save money and energy-I have a book originally written in 1850 on architecture- "The Architecture of Country Houses" by A. J. Downing-good section on ventilation, though codes might not allow the things he put on his chimney flues...copies are available on Amazon I think. Probably better books on the subject of ventilation, but this one shows some interesting ideas, that can probably be made with some metal, and enough time. His house designs are nice too! Also, his "unburnt brick" ideas are quite interesting... Just keep in mind that if you insulate to save energy, but have to use energy to vent it all the time to preserve air quality, you aren't truly saving much-so make sure it can be vented without energy being used.

About fire danger.When we burned down here 2 years ago,a house with vinyl windows had the frames melt from the heat.House didnt burn,but the windows were a total loss.
As for prices,WOW! My triple paned,coated,gas filled,electrically opening skylights were only 500 a piece(I installed em,not rocket science either).

BooBoo

Yeah, I've seen melted vinyl siding from fires-those fumes are bad if you get trapped in a plastic covered house! Seen it happen....wasn't a nice sight.

From my research the Hurd window is as good as you can get. Do a bit of research here http://www.hurd.com/pressreleases.asp Hurd has a different approach that works beautifully to the low e approach.
As for the 2 x 6 walls I think they are well worth the money I spent for mine. Rather than buy 2 x 6 stud length I bought 10 feet 2 x 6s and cut them to give a 9 feet ceiling height which I thoroughly enjoy. I used the drop of the 10 feet long 2 x 6s as a purlin which is a nice adder to wall strength. Conserving heat in the winter and cool in the summer is a requirement here in NC. This savings can be applied to the mortgage payment to facilitate a rapid payoff.

2 x 6 outside wall framing is essential for a dwelling in the northern climate. It holds more insulation which will save heating costs in the long run to pay for the extra framing cost. 2" styrofoam pink insulation is also a great benefit to keep in heat over those outside walls, and helps cool in the summer. On a windy hill, this will also be very helpful and worth the extra initial cost if you can afford it.
Lowen windows are popular here, and they come in triple pane for norther climate that also will reduce heating costs. Good windows are not cheap, anyway you look at it, but for the long haul give the best benefit.

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The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man.

Someone said something about the vinyl windows being harder to open. Might it be cause the house has setteled and it's not the windows fault. I use to make both vinyl and wood clad windows for some years. All the windows we built where going into all new built houses with the Diminion the name on the houses. I'd say if the windows are sticking it's something to do with it setteling rather then the windows it self and if it is the windows call the builder as they should be under warrenty. Just my 2 cents And I'd go with 2x6 walls more noise is kept out for one thing 2 resale value is more. Later Matt

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Spelling and Gramer subject to screw ups I'm not perfect. Later MAtt

I would check to see what the local buildings codes require. Some areas require 2x6 for insulation reasons.I believe here we have to have R26 walls and R42 ceilings. Using 2x4 walls here would icrease the cost having to utilize rigid foam
insulation to get the R26. I have also heard that there's an increased problem with some 2x6 walls constuction being damp inside and creating mold problems.

Your typical windows in a average house should be somewhere in ~$6,000 range for reasonable quality. Any figure well in excess of that should be well understood what you are buying.

All of those fancy French doors or the like are expensive, always have been. That is good advice to check around for excess or surplus windows. Bargain store around me sells excellent windows at incredile discount prices. One way to do it is first buy the windows, change the plans to suit.

I would be wary of modern windows that include wood in the frames. Would really want to put the eyeballs on them. The older houses (>50 years) and some even younger all have problems with dryrot and other problems in wooden frames. The house I am selling needs major rehab in the area of windows. Basically the wood is worn out from either sun damage or some form of rot. Would be nice to have windows immune from any form of rot.

Would also look around and shop the building supply guys who specialize in windows / doors. Would never buy from the likes of HD or Lowes or those types. The contractors should know where to find the best deals in any particular area.

As to 2 x 4 versus 2 x 6, you usually assume thicker is better. The one flaw no body talks about in a modern stick built house is the biggest nail probably is 3-1/2" all shot with a nail gun. Just is not big enough for many areas. You really want spikes in a number of areas, if automation is required, use a air palm nailer. Using more beefy wood is only as good as what holds it together.

I also like the idea of an outside coating of insulation over the entire outside / under the siding. Really don't have a problem with 2 / 4's if that is the design used for insulation. Usually that is some form of rigid but you get what you pay for. Sounds like this particular contractor is well booked and feels free to charge what the market might be willing to bear.

oz - I don't believe there's any one right answer. Offhand, I would skimp on things that can be changed later. Walls can't be changed (at least not easily). Windows are easier. Flooring, fixtures, stuff like that is easiest.

The house will be in NC, right?? That's a good moderate climate. I'm in SC so it's probably similar. (Of course, it depends on exactly where you are in NC.)

My exterior walls are only 2x4. But the interior is solid tongue-and-groove 3/4" thick pine paneling. The exterior has horizontal 3/4" boards and then real wood clapboard over that. Trust me, it's sturdy. What siding will you use?? Plywood and then vinyl?? If so, I'd prefer 2x6. But on a house like mine, it would have defininitely been overkill.

The window prices you were quoted definitely sound high. Even if they're super energy efficient, it might not be worth it where you are.

My mistake on the windows-it is indeed fibreglass clad exterior and bare wood interior.Also over $7,000 is for the doors,doors we wouldn't be buying anyway.

The windows range in price from $317 to $1128(this is the tempered glass bathroom window)

It does indeed make sense to have as much insulation as possible.

Thanks for all the replies.

Do not skimp on window quality. Determine the best window you can afford, then go one better. 2X6 walls are great in the North, where bitter winds can suck heat from a structure, but are not necessary in the South. SOLUTION: Build with 2X4 walls, top of the line windows, use blown cellulose insulation in the walls (it's more dense than fiberglass w/higher R value), and use house wrap on the exterior. If you sacrifice window quality for 2X6 walls, you will most certainly defeat your purpose of increasing energy efficiency.