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  #21  
Old 11/26/14, 01:59 PM
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Location: Sandhills South Carolina
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Originally Posted by jwal10 View Post
I was wondering how old the trees were, Forest? Has it always been pines or was the land just let go and the pines just took over here and there or timber trees

It was planted pines for lumber ... as much of the open land in the South is. I suspect it's been in pines for a 20+ years, but I really don't know.
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  #22  
Old 11/26/14, 04:53 PM
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I wouldn't write off the boron, but I wouldn't put it on right away either. Get the pH acceptable, plant it, and then test again next year. One reason for getting the pH right first is that acidic soil makes boron more water soluble and if you put it on now you'll just lose a lot of it. I suspect getting the pH right will be enough and you won't need to add any soon. If you do, add half what they recommend and test again the next year.

But on the other hand, lime doesn't do a whole lot of good (beyond pH) without boron. Boron is absolutely essential, especially for cattle pasture. Your levels are sufficient for now, but if they get much lower you'll start to see vegetative deformation and stunted growth. Alfalfa and clover will be especially hurt by boron deficiency. It is much better to adjust it after establishing the pasture, though. That way you can test the brix of the vegetation at different times and see tell-tale signs that are sometimes actually better indicators than lab analysis.

ETA: In future tests, I would go deeper unless the lab tells you specifically not to. I usually do 8-10 inches.
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  #23  
Old 11/26/14, 05:10 PM
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Forgot to say increasing organic matter should help your CEC...and if it's done with manure then it may fix your boron levels indirectly...but the best way to increase organic matter is by growing vegetation. Dolomite lime will strangely help too as long as it is soil that doesn't stick together when wet, which I'm sure yours doesn't. For 6 acres it might even be worth spreading some clay, but don't bother with anything that extreme yet.
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  #24  
Old 11/26/14, 06:38 PM
 
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Originally Posted by SkizzlePig View Post
It was planted pines for lumber ... as much of the open land in the South is. I suspect it's been in pines for a 20+ years, but I really don't know.
Thanks, what I thought about the pine needles, they drop a lot of mass and it makes a lot of duff. Mixed in it and rotted down makes good soil.
I would work the lime in as deep as you can (6"-8") to help build a good root system, don't know what you have to work with, a disk works good but needs to be heavy enough if there are a lot of roots and trash. Manure would be good....James
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  #25  
Old 11/26/14, 07:16 PM
 
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I'd also play to your strengths. Some plants (not many, but they're worthwhile) just L..U..R..V..E acid soil, and that's what you've got. It may be worth reserving an unlimed, uphill section for them.A quick search says:

Radishes, Sweet Potatoes, Parsley, Peppers, Potatoes.
Rhubarb, Blueberries, Cranberries, Currants, Elderberries, Gooseberries.
Grapes and brambles, squash and cucumbers are acid-tolerant, so you could throw them in on the fences around the fruit bushes, and on the margins of the limed land.
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  #26  
Old 11/28/14, 04:35 PM
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FWIW, my BIL is an agronomist and owns a super successful ag soil testing company. He has a masters degree in that field.

I mentioned this thread to him, and he says that you should probably retest with a proper soil probe, and "go way deeper than 1 inch. They are going to waste time and money with any sample taken at 1 inch."
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