threading twine on a manual tie big baler

Ive blown the clutch out of my 40hp D Brown tractor. Im trying to find the price on a new clutch disc. Wont know till Mon. Also Mon Ill call my tractor mechanic to see what he thinks labor will be to put it in. That will tel me if I can afford to fix it, or not. IN THE MEANTIME, were working on my boys over hauled and bored 49 AC WD. IF I cant afford to fix the D B, then well have to try the WD, which I assume is around the same hp as a WD-45, which is around 30hp. An M IHC has around the same hp. IF you can make a 4 X 5 bale with a 23hp MF, I should be able to make one with the boys AC. Even my H Farmall has around 23hp.

Nope, my H is 19 HP and 25 Belt. Your MF is 32 Hp, and I think 37 PTO

That according to tractor data.

3acres: I see rust stains on the belts where it has been sitting a while. Looks like belt dressing would help. As for starting a bale, the poster with experience with that baler is the best source of advice. I haven't used that baler, but with others the belts being too long can cause problems starting a bale. Part of your starting problem may be using a tractor without live power.

By all means stop the pto before ejecting a bale. If the belts are running, they will
chew up the bale as the gate is lifted.

Rambler: On starting a bale in the F Vermeer, read the manual. The hitch is hinged where it attaches to the baler with a ratchet jack to adjust the angle of the hitch. I don't remember the exact procedure, but there has to be proper clearance between the roller with flaps and the pickup teeth. If a f is adjusted right and has good pickup teeth, it will start relaiblely.

COWS

Your chain baler takes more HP than a belt baler. When dad tried one we had a MM602D 64hp it just didnt have it. borrowed an ac 190 to finish up.

The Minnie pulls a Vermeer 602G just fine until the moisture starts to come up in the evening.

Thanks a million for all the tips everyone! I really appreciate it! I'm taking every thing in and learning form it.... your time is not wasted!!!

Well,..lol...I just take the tip off of which ever hose I'm not using and have it going into a jug so it can relieve the pressure at the moment.......then dump the fluid back in every once in awhile....lol. ...but I do believe I have all I need to make a 2-way now though. I didn't want to make it 2-way if it couldn't lift the gate all the way up, which I believe it does. I'll post pics if it works. I got an open center log splitter valve deal and a bunch of hoses, tips and stuff. I'm just running my one line I have now from the tractor into the "in" part of the valve and running the "out" part of the valve back into the drain plug on the tractor.....then of course run two hoses out of the valve to the baler. I don't know if it will work though??? I'm going to have to make something also to mount the valve to. When I google M's and 2-way hydraulics, I see these tall looking valves mounted by where you put the fliud in at and they have a lever on them that runs back next to the lever that is already there....looks pretty handy.


edited: meant to say also...I don't have an extra hydraulic tank for the baler.

...in the meantime I have been knocking out the small squares. I love doing small squares! This is exciting starting to learn about big baling too though!

No extra tank is required.... there are only a couple of cylinders which are two way so they are always full of oil. Once those cylinders and lines are filled they are sealed so no real extra amount of oil is required.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

I understand that Hubby. Ive been on JDs that had a 2 way cyl to a plow. BUT it seems that 2 round bailer cyls would take way more oil than the reserve that the tractor has to give.

nope, not after yuo use it one time. the cylinders fill up and become the resrvoir. as fluid is pumped into one end an equal amount is being returnd to the tractor. when you reverse the direction the same thing happens. two way cylinders ae
re like that... they are always full. just depends if the fluid is ahead of or behind the piston as it travels back and forth. when the piston is in the middle each end of the cylinder is still full.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

On the int 241 big baler the pto has to be running in order to eject the roll. at least mine does.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

as does on an 852 NH

Thanks to everybody's help, I'm big baling...well round baling....today was the first day.

I put a bunch of belt dressing on the belts and really rubbed it in.....rotating the belts and stopping them.....really cleaned them up...them sprayed them again while they were rolling.

Then figured out what it likes as far as starting the upper belts rolling....then was off.




I didn't get the first bale tied right. I started the twine in with hay going in, which worked great and I pulled it some, but didn't know I could pull that twine tube all the way across the whole baler like it can. I figured it out after seeing I only tied the one side of that first bale and got to pulling on that tube with everything off. I guess I figured it rotated across the whole bale on it's own once it got started in there....lol.


My second bale ever made. Probably 3ft high. Much bigger than this and it starts kicking hay out the back real bad and won't get bigger. I was in small windrows though. I am wondering if that is why it was doing that or what??? I tried shutting the end gate while baling every once in awhile???



I got into a big outside windrow and it was in the process of making a really nice bale...probably 4 X 5....right when I was going to pull the string, it gummed up, stalled the pto and started smoking...lol. I was like dang!!!....I almost had a good one, if I tied it ok.



I made my one-way hydraulics 2-way today...worked great!

P L E A S E let me know IF you can continually bale 4 X 5s with the M. hanks for showing the pic of the 2 way. Resting on the axle, aint that kinda hard to reach down and work? Ive never had to reach down from my H to touch the axle for any reason, so I dont know.
IF you can continually do it with the M, My boys rebored WD AC ought to be able to do it too, as theres only a couple hp between the 2

I've never reached down to touch the axle or that lever either...lol. I put the lever there just to see if how I plumbed everything would work and don't have a better place to put it. I still have to turn the pump on using the original hand lever on the tractor and it worked out to where I do that with my right hand like always and used my right foot to run the 2-way...lol. I need to mount it in a better spot but boy it worked well! Real handy for when I was on the ground also...probably not safe though.

I'm going to make different windrows for this baler the next time I rake and I think it will bale 4x5's just fine. I was in a bad spot today....short little curved light windrows. I'll be back out in open flat ground the next time I mow. I have storage for 1500 small squares and am well on my way to filling that, so it is a good feeling that I will be able to roll some up using this once I get things figured out. I have things I think I can try on all areas I have problems in except the twine tube stays down too far no matter what I do therefore I can't cut the darn twine after wrapping the bale???

I'll let you know if I can ever make a better bale. Good luck to you!

I FOUnd Im going to have to replace my knives to cut twine. $16 each for 2 pieces of metal with 2 square holes in them around 2 1/2in by 3 1/2

Running hay out the back is most likely caused by the back gate being too far open. There is a pressure regulator valve that may need to be adjusted. I know on mine I have to tighten up the gate every once in a while while going through the field... just a quick pull on the hydrolic control lever is all it takes but if I forget, the back gate gets too far open and starts running the hay through without rolling it.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

The old 2400 baler I used to run had mower sickle sections to cut the twine your 241 may use sickle sections as well or just sharpen them with a grinder and a flap disc

Well, my D Brown pto is toast, and ital. likely cost round $1,500 to fix it. So im back to getting my boys WD AC running. Keep me deformed on anything I might want/need to know. Does making a 4X5 bale dog the M down a lot?