Choices for tractor tire fill material

Nope so far so good... we use old antifreeze from when we do changes on all the equipment, trucks etc. Works fine, even in subzero temps.

I'd also like to point out that if you're replacing tires, I'd go for a radial tire (more $$) over a biased tire. We have sets of each on similar 130hp tractors, and get much better wear, grip (especially snow/ice, haven't put chains on in years on the radial) on the radial tires than the bias.

Pricing here is about $1200 for each rear tire... give or take depending on size. Fluid filled of course.

Walter,

Last year we cleared an old fence line that was full of honey locusts. Both my front tires ended up like pin cusions and flat as a pancake afterward. I started to use those tar plugs, but it was pointless. I thought I was going to have to replace them. But I bought some of the green slime stuff at Wal-Mart, and haven't had a flat since. I ended up doing the same on my ATV and 4X4 mule. They were perpetually parked next to the air compressor. Now the air compressor is as lonely as the Maytag repairman.

I haven't had the same bum luck on the back tires as you, so I can't offer any advice there.

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Honesty and integrity are homesteading virtues.

Not trying to be preachy, but just pointing out, regular antifreeze is a toxic thing that EPA wants you to report spills if an entire tire leaks out. It is dangerous to critters and to groundwater.

We all do stuff, I understand, but if one is concerned about keeping their land pure, this would not be a good idea.

Calcium chloride is a salt and will kill plants it leaks onto, but it is not a toxic substance and is much safer for critters/ environment/ wells.

Paul

To each his own I guess, I've seen the dangers of CC and rims...

The tire place does offer something else that is enviro friendly, not sure what it is, but it was expensive to put into the tires, and we have a lot of old antifreeze around... so...

No spills yet in 30 years... AFAIK.

Somehow I don't think a little antifreeze is going to hurt anything as long as it isn't puddled where some thing can drink it.

There's a balance to life. Here's an example of insanity because some kid urinated into a reservoir. Now they're going to drain it. What do think birds have been doing when they fly over?

http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/n...ation/7814581/

Right, just like one CFL light bulb that gets broken is not a national emergency to call in a Hazmat team, and some antifreeze gets spilled, runs over, is not a case for anyone to go get the epa involved either. LOL

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We've been using the green slime too. It does work as a temporary patch, slows the leaks down enough to get back to the compressor and then we park near it incase they keep leaking. At that point the leaks are very slow.

I've got one particular hole on one of the rear tires that is being my major problem. It started as a nail hole years ago. I patched it with a plug. It has gradually widened. Since it's being bad right now that seemed like the time to try foam. But contacting dealers I'm looking at $2K to foam each tractor and I'm not ready to spend that much right now. The TyrFil LD sounds interesting since it is a low density foam. There is a lot of wear left on that tire - it just has this hole big enough to reach a pinky finger in.

Now that things are warming up I may just take the tire off and build up a thick patch inside the tire, polyurea the hole and crack around it and then put a tube back in. I've got a tube. I've got polyurea on hand. I don't have the cash for the foam which is what I would like to do. We'll see how the build up patch works. If it keeps it going for another year maybe I'll have the cash next year for foam. Sometimes things are like that. I'll report how the build up works after a bit of use.

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SugarMtnFarm.com -- Pastured Pigs, Poultry, Sheep, Dogs and Kids

I have beet juice in my tractor tires. That is what everyone recommends around here and that is also what all the dealerships offer to fill your tires with when you purchase a tractor. I'm not sure if it's the heaviest filler but it seems to be an all around good filler. I also recommend putting an attachment or ballast (weight) box or homemade version of a ballast box on your 3 point hitch when doing loader work. I know my loaded tires and having weight on the hitch have saved me from rolling/tipping over.

You need a boot. http://www.gemplers.com/product/5L/9...-ply-Oval-Boot

Awnry Abe

here is my solution for ballast

use a thick wall plastic 55 gallon drum and cut the top of the drum off. Buy one the $20 plus 3 point hitch drawbars . Measure the height of the 3 point lift arms when they are at the maximum up position. Subtract 6 to 8 inches from that and use that location to mark 2 hole locations up from the bottom of the barrel and mark for drilling the 2 holes centered in the barrel opposite each other the same diameter of the drawbar small ends. Take this to a concrete plant and ask them to fill to the weight you want. The concrete will cover the drawbar and hold it in place once cured. The counter weight will pivot on the lift arm balls and will not need a top link. When the weight is not needed you can leave it off the tractor. Best of both worlds, cheap too.

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Agmantoo
If they can do it,
you know you can!

I used RV antifreeze diluted 50/50 with water to come close to our typical lows in NC. Ended up costing about the same as WW fluid and is 100 percent non-toxic. I think it has some corrosion preventers in it too. If I had extra money to spend I would probably go with Rim Guard.

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After looking at the foam filled tires extensively I wasn't able to bite the bullet on the cost. I would love the foam fill but it looked like it was going to cost well over $1,000 per wheel and they said to only do it on new tires - mine are over 10 years old. So I patched the tire again and will keep it going. We only drive at slow speeds so the imbalance of the patch is not such a problem. This time I am testing putting polyurea on the exterior and inside the hole. See:

http://SugarMtnFarm.com/2014/05/22/p...r-tire-repair/

I think this may seal the hole both from the interior and the exterior keeping stones and sticks out so the tube doesn't get punctured again. So far it is holding up well.

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SugarMtnFarm.com -- Pastured Pigs, Poultry, Sheep, Dogs and Kids

after need to replace the rims on one of my tractors, do to CC, I took it out, any one want a few 30 gallon drums of it. it was in tubes, but a tube would start to leak, and the tire would act like a tubeless and the CC would start to work on the rims and rotted them out,

I would use some thing non corrosive, if I was doing it again, currently I have no liquid in the tires,

I'd get it of I were near you.

I've got 3 tractors with CC, one is on all four corners. One is tubeless tires. One tractor is from the mid 1950s, the bigger one is from 1970s, always had fluid. You can see a little surface rust, but if you take care of it, over 40 or 60 years you'll have that anyhow. Up here the use a lot of salt and liquid stuff - often CC actually - sprayed on the roads in winter, so if I do any road driving in winter for snow blowing someone, my rims will rust from the outside in from that salt spray. Aweful stuff up here. But anyhow, the CC for weight is the best fit for the need.

Up here in MN its too cold to fool around with weak antifreeze mixes with livestock and snow machinery has to run if it is 20 below or not....

Paul

Where do fish take a dump? Do they allow power boats?