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  #41  
Old 11/25/13, 02:39 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,750
Just a bit of a chuckle......

I read the title to this thread while thinking about something wlse, and thought "who doesn't have the power to shop? Most folks can shop, even when they are dead broke!"

Then I snapped........Joe
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  #42  
Old 11/25/13, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 21
Okay, here is the quote that I recieved from PP&L:

This letter is in response to your request for the approximate amount of the cash advance you would be required to make, under the current line-extension rule of Pacific’s electric tariff, underground service to a shop at the above location.

A preliminary construction cost estimate has been made in order to avoid delaying your determination of the economic feasibility of obtaining the electric service. This estimated cost is based on: installing a 1-phase overhead line that will include 3-poles, 2-down guys and anchors, 25KVA transformer, service and meter base. Cost would be about
$13,000.00 to $13,500.00. Underground service from the same location-installing pole, underground primary riser, 800’ underground primary, 25KVA pad mount transformer 200’ service, meter. Cost would be about $11,000.00 to $11,500.00. Underground option will require the customer to provide all trenching, conduit, backfill, and vault.

1. Additional rights of way and easements (due to re-routing of facilities) required by Pacific to construct, operate and maintain the line extension being obtained at no cost to Pacific.

1. Use of a route chosen from mapped information and field survey, for converting a distribution line from Pacific’s

presently existing facilities, to a point of delivery acceptable to Pacific on the premises located as described above.

Pacific’s chosen route may require additional preparation and/or clearing, by the Customer, to Pacific’s specifications.

1. Material, labor and overhead costs presently being incurred by Pacific for the construction of similar electric distribution facilities (and is therefore valid for 90 days from the above date).

4. If the line extension request involves underground PPL facilities, the costs reflected in this letter do not include Customer’s cost for trenching, backfill, conduits, and vaults required for this project.

The cash advance, based on the preliminary estimate and our understanding of your intended use, is $11,000.00 to

$13,500.00. Following your determination that you wish to proceed, Pacific will, with your additional request, submit the actual cash advance for the required line-extension based on field surveys and a detailed engineering cost analysis.

Please submit your request for permanent service 4 to 6 weeks prior to construction.

The conversion of Pacific’s facilities to furnish electric service is subject to the provisions of the rules and regulations of Pacific’s electric tariff as now or hereafter filed with the state regulator authority having jurisdiction thereof.
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  #43  
Old 11/25/13, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler View Post
I didnt read all the replies, sorry if this is a repeat of info already.....

Very common out on the farm, 400 feet isn't that bad.

Underground direct burial feeder line, 4 individual wires, aluminum is what you can afford and works well. It will be thick wire, and expensive, but not that bad. Some folk hate direct burial, want their wire in conduit underground if you do be sure you use wire rated for conduit use, as it heats and cools differently if direct burial or in conduit, you need to match up right.

At each end be sure you have the proper box with a clamp than is rated for aluminum wire, and use the special grease on the connection and it works great and safe. From there you can wire the building with copper wire inside.

It will be far cheaper than the quote you got, my farm has a central transformer, and then 70 feet to the house, 350 feet to 3 buildings, and a multi branch line to the remaining 6 buildings and deep well up to 700 feet away. Had all that put in underground for $8000 8 years ago, all is capable of 200 amps. Prices for aluminum has gone up a little, and labor, but obviously I had a lot more done, and that 700 foot line has wires the metal is as thick as my thumb....

So you should have no problems, it will cost but not that much.

Paul

Edit - read the thread after all....

Current code you will almost always need to run 4 wires these days, from your one service. You can't get by without the ground wire any more. There had been some ag exceptions which may apply, but bet not.

The concern with long wires and bigger voltages is 'voltage drop'. There are many calculators out there. This one tends to be rather conservative and some folk don't like the big wires it calls for, but it correctly give you a 3% voltage drop for a service line, and then you have a remaining 2% drop for the in-building losses for the total 5% voltage drop you are allowed.

http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm

This says you will want your aluminum feeder wires to be 500 MCM gauge, which is big and expensive, but will give you full 200 amp out there, and you won't see any dimming lights, etc. and can fit your budget. Forget the 4-0 wire and such others talk about.

Depending on what your current main breaker box is, you can pull off of it and be feeding 200 amps to your house and to your shop with the current 200 amp service you have. This is not a problem, however you can only be pulling a total of 200 amps all together at any one time. Unless you were going into shop business with employees, I can't see the single 200 amp service ever being a problem for your setup. You might need a new service box, or main breaker box, to handle the divide, but it should all work out fine.

It will take a smaller wire and potentially easier main connection if you only want 100 amps out there.

400 feet is not a problem, IF you do it right. And your electrician will do it right. And while expensive, it should not break the bank as other options you are getting will!

I'm running a deep well, 5 buildings with 60 amp services, and my big 48x81 shop at the far end of that 700 foot run. Along with the rest house included, all on a 200 amp main service.

It won't be a problem. Your electrician will have no problem setting it up.

My numbers and comments might help you figure out what you are in for ahead of time, I love doing that research too, but the electrician will have it all dialed in easy, and it will work all off 200 amps (unless you often have multiple workers in that shop at the same time).

My entire farm used to be on a 60 amp service until I upgraded, farm shop, house, well, livestock, etc. now that was a little cramped, lights would dim a lot......
Great reply! Thank you very much. This sounds like it could work for me. I will print this out and give it to the electricians providing quotes. Thanks again!
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  #44  
Old 11/25/13, 06:59 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArXane View Post
A preliminary construction cost estimate has been made in order to avoid delaying your determination of the economic feasibility of obtaining the electric service. This estimated cost is based on: installing a 1-phase overhead line that will include 3-poles, 2-down guys and anchors, 25KVA transformer, service and meter base. Cost would be about
$13,000.00 to $13,500.00.

1. Additional rights of way and easements (due to re-routing of facilities) required by Pacific to construct, operate and maintain the line extension being obtained at no cost to Pacific.

1. Use of a route chosen from mapped information and field survey, for converting a distribution line from Pacific’s presently existing facilities, to a point of delivery acceptable to Pacific on the premises located as described above.

Pacific’s chosen route may require additional preparation and/or clearing, by the Customer, to Pacific’s specifications.
Way I read the above is that PP&L is wanting you to foot the bill for them to relocate and upgrade your service.

How long has the existing service been in place?
How far is your existing transformer/meter from the main distribution line?
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  #45  
Old 11/25/13, 08:07 PM
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Location: Southern Oregon
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Service has been in place since early 90's I believe at the house. The transformer is only about 20ft from the house/meter
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  #46  
Old 11/25/13, 08:17 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Appalachia
Posts: 555
Just food for thought ...

You will want/need quadruplex if going from an existing service ( single point ground).

Looking at the voltage drop calculator Rambler linked to but considering the original 100A and 400' ... looks like 250 MCM AL would suffice.

Just looking and found this pricing.

Please note that Greenlee makes both ratchet and hydraulic type "cable" benders .. there is a reason for this.

The largest wire that I have dealt with is 750 MCM CU ( but it did have 13 parallel runs). The closet, to this scenario, pull that I done ( in conduit) is 350 MCM CU in 350' parallel runs.

Just thoughts ...

250 MCM just may not fit into a 100A breaker. A 250 MCM neutral will not easily fit into any existing residential neutral bar that I have seen ( outside of the main terminal, maybe?)

If you do run conduit to pull the wire into ... ye will appreciate using metal 90s as the pulling rope ( which will need to be of substantial size) can burn through the PVC ones and cause unwanted issues.

Definitely doable cheaper than the power company quotes ... but not quite as simple.

Harry mentions one of my first thoughts ... upgrade your existing service to a 2-gang multi-tenant service. This gets everything outside and leaves one with room to work it out.

Again, just thoughts as I ain't arguing these no more
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  #47  
Old 11/25/13, 08:53 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,349
The solution, were it me, would be a trailer mounted, or otherwise portable, adequate size LP generator and a 500 gallon LP tank. A generator and tank would also be an asset to power the home in case of an power failure. And, unlike poles and lines, is moveable should you change locations, or salable when/if no longer needed.
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  #48  
Old 11/26/13, 06:31 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 7,610
Most power cos charge a monthly fee per each service meter, so I would be careful in putting in a seperate feed to the shop. Do the math on how much extra you spend every year on the fixed fees and taxes applied before you get billed for any power - 10 bucks, 25 bucks, every month? Adds up. Some companies get real fussy and consider the 2nd meter non-residential and have bigger monthly fees for it, be sure you understand what you sign up for if you do the second meter from the power co.....

The generator is an option, but maintaining an engine, the fuel cost is more than electricity cost, and if you move the next buyer is going to discount having a building with no power to it so it has a lot of negatives. Where I live it gets to zero for a high during winter, it would not be a logical way to go 'here'. Unless you don't use the shop in winter, you need some electricity all the time to run some sort of heater here. Walk in in winter and do you start the generator to flick the lights on for 10 minutes? Argh.

For my setup, they mounted a box outside each building basically a juntion box, with 4 buss bars inside, to handle the big fat wires, and tap off a more modest wire for the short run into the building's breaker box. Yup they add to the cost, but at most you will have 2 of those, and the cost is manageable to just run the wires out from your current setup.

The advantage of those buss bar boxes, when I built my new shed 3 years ago, the electrician had a very easy time just coming off one of those boxes and carrying 200 amps to my shed. No fuss, no need to run a new set of wires back to the main breaker. Saved me a lot of money so if you ever want to put another building out that way, you can easily add on if you do it right the first time.....

Many options, other ideas are good too, just trying to put out ideas for you to consider is all, don't mean to say other thinking is bad!

Paul
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  #49  
Old 11/26/13, 08:14 AM
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yea that quote is for 1000' of line.

makes no sense unless you are on a mobile hoem type drop and it is not sized for the increased load?
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  #50  
Old 11/26/13, 12:22 PM
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Rambler the heats really an easy fix.
Couple options I can think of ,ventless lp wall unit,Drip waste oil burner,wood burner.

My Shops not as of yet Insulated, really would not want to be heating it when I was not using it, even if it where.

We Have Power to the Shop, but as you note, PC wanted separate service at commercial rate. No thanks.
Its at least 400' from the meter, its tied in at the Main panel on a 220v breaker.
sub-panel down at the shop.
I do think there is some voltage drop, and yes a few tools don't like it.
I would like a gen set up down there even with the power ran.
preferably 3 ph as we don't have an option for that here.
Lots of old 3ph tooling available at decent prices , alas no use to me as I set.
A few things I want to add do not come single phase... or if they do they are shadows of their cousins.
Yes I know I could set up a phase converter but just like voltage drop on long runs, not the most Ideal solution...
One day maybe.
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  #51  
Old 11/26/13, 08:39 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,443
Would it be cheaper to just move the shop closer to the house? Which side of the house is the pole located and which side from the house is the shop located?
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  #52  
Old 11/26/13, 09:54 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 391
I don't understand all this stuff but am enjoying reading it. My take on it is.... I would NEVER have utility company equipment on my property any further than necessary. If I could bring it into one meter/location, run it from there and make that work, that's what I'd do. I'd keep the stinking utility company off my property any way possible. Some people say, they'd rather use the utility company because if anything goes wrong, they're responsible for fixing it. My experiences have always been the opposite. They make every excuse under the sun for why something you did affected their lines/equipment/etc and they will make repairs to your service at their leisure. Unless there's some regulation about what you can do with your power once it's on your property (which your local licensed electrician will know), I would say thanks but no thanks to PP&L.

If it were me, I'd ask around for 3 good electrical companies in your area. I'd tell them what I want and let them provide written quotes detailing how they're going about it. Some will give you that info and some won't as they don't want you going to a cheaper competitor and that's understandable. A rough idea will suffice. Then I'd come back here or find an electrician's forum online somewhere and run it by the guys. Choose which one you feel comfortable with and can afford and go for it.

Being ignorant on everything but basic home wiring such as light switches, ceiling fans, installing a circuit, etc, that LP generator is sounding pretty good to me, but I bet that's a pretty big investment itself.
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  #53  
Old 11/26/13, 10:14 PM
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Just Found a 85 k natural gas 3 phase Genset with 400 amp transfer switch 2,500 dollars... It was removed from a facility most likely for redundancyreqirements...
Now to convince momma...
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  #54  
Old 11/27/13, 01:25 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Central Valley Oregon
Posts: 43
Natural Gas Gen Set

How close is Natural gas an how much to run it 400 feet to shop??

Option 11-B convert Generator to Propane mount on trailer
_______ an then buy large tank.
_______Be sure to shield from view the propane tank.
_______include Concrete Highway barriers for protection of tank
_______ 50 gal aux tank on trailer will provide power to house
_______ in case of power outage
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  #55  
Old 11/27/13, 04:17 AM
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How much would it cost to connect a separate service to the shop? We had a barn 3 acres from my parents house and the cost of running a feed from our main house was twice the cost of having a service installed at the barn and a tap run in from the main line on the right away on the next section.

For 30 years now we have had two electric bills with the one at the barn/shop minimal.
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  #56  
Old 11/27/13, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
How much would it cost to connect a separate service to the shop? We had a barn 3 acres from my parents house and the cost of running a feed from our main house was twice the cost of having a service installed at the barn and a tap run in from the main line on the right away on the next section.

For 30 years now we have had two electric bills with the one at the barn/shop minimal.
Thats kind of what this post is about. The prices they gave me are for a new service to the shop.
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  #57  
Old 11/27/13, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosco99 View Post
How close is Natural gas an how much to run it 400 feet to shop??

Option 11-B convert Generator to Propane mount on trailer
_______ an then buy large tank.
_______Be sure to shield from view the propane tank.
_______include Concrete Highway barriers for protection of tank
_______ 50 gal aux tank on trailer will provide power to house
_______ in case of power outage
Natural Gas is not available. An LP generator is an options.... although the last option.
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  #58  
Old 11/27/13, 09:14 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 7,610
My general area of the world just had an lp shortage. I'd guess most homeowners didnt really notice, but it was nip and tuck in the ag world, no lp to be had there for a few weeks.

I hear next year the big wigs plan to reroute the flow in pipelines, making the situation -worst- for next fall in my area.

Something to consider if depending on lp....

Paul
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  #59  
Old 11/29/13, 03:14 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Appalachia
Posts: 555
My thoughts ran along the line of upgrading the existing service to a single 400 amp meter. This could feed something like this ( you are allowed 6 throws ) ...

Getting power to shop - Homesteading Questions

Doesn't mean that you have to add additional meters as they make cover plates with busbar jumpers. So you would still have but the one meter.

Feed the existing homestead off of a 200A. Install a 100 amp to a distribution block that allows the larger size wires - I really do not think that one wants to play with large wires inside an existing residential panel..

Of course you'll want to protect the system prior to the multi-tenant system with something like this ... ( it's a 600 amp 3R but shows something else to consider - it's a monster)

Getting power to shop - Homesteading Questions

Big wires demand large consideration.

Leaves one with options ... but still, just thoughts.
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