Machinery for hay?

Not tying is a problem, but its usually fairly easy to fix if one has the knowledge in front of them. Repair manuals for all of the major brands is usually readily available. It sounds like your baler is like my 14T... it had an override clutch built onto it. What a life saver that was for me. I pulled that one with a little to20 ferguson, no live power but with the override it was pretty easy to operate, not as handy as my 35 with the two stage clutch, but not bad at all.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

Bill

wire or twine? You have to check ever thing from the knotter to the wire or twine box. Wire can be rusty or dry and need a little oil poured on it to make it feed and slide through the guides and rollers. Make sure the knotter is timed and everything tight and nothing has grooves worn to deep.

Allen. I have checvked everything. I have pulled the cutters off at least 3 times to check the twister hooks. I have the op manual. The wire is new. I have poured 2 gal of used oil inito the boxes, 1 gal a box. The knotter is timed by the book. the twister hooks are in place by the book, the needles are timed by the book. The twister hook rods that they mounted on were worn and grooved by the hooks, so I had new ones bought. The hooks had grooves in them, so I had a welder build them up.

I havnt tried it since doing that tho. Ive got one other string in my fiddle for keeping the deflector rods tight against the twister hook rods. When I get that assembled, Ill try it again. Replacing the rods I would say helped it a bit.

Allen, its wire. 140W Case

Hubby. I have no clutches on mine. that I know about. I do have an engine tho.

Well, I still harvest my 4 acres of orchard grass with a DR Field & Brush Mower and a leaf rake. I pile it onto mesh sheets and my large Nubian buck takes it to the barn and up it goes into the loft.

__________________
I am what I am! Acknowledging this is the beginning; and my growth is yet to end. http://motdaugrnds.com/farmsales ~~~~~ http://motdaugrnds.com

Which is even better than live power, no direct connection to the tractor via pto shaft at all.

__________________
"Nothing so needs reforming as other peoples habits." Mark Twain

I cut the hay here with a 2 wheel cycle mower, about an acre. Rake with a wood hand rake and pull the cart up to the barn with the walk behind. Walked in a stall, very good hay. The hay out at the farm is cut by the neighbor when he does his, no fence between his field and mine. I get 1/3 the bales, better than having to mow it, usually 2 cuttings....James

Well........

Most of those are Wisconsin engine powered, and I've worked with Wisconsin engine for a few decades. Really good little power units, but keeping them running and starting one when warm can make you learn some new words.....

I kinda prefer getting a tad bigger tractor with live pto and just have the one engine to maintain instead of 2.....

Makes the baler a lot heavier as well, can be quite a load on a small tractor on hills.

Again, works well for many over the years. But probably more for someone already pretty experienced with dealing with this old farm machinery. Finding a working model and keeping it running of the engine powered balers is a little more work than a novice may want.....

The simpler, fun hobby way to bale hay is find a nice New Holland baler from models 69 through 271, or maybe a JD T14 or T24, and a mid 1950s or newer tractor of about 35 to 50 hp with live pto and 5-8 forward gears, and have fun baling 5-15 acres, maybe do a 5 acre patch or 2 for a neighbor. Put your money into these 2 items to get good ones, so when the weather gives you a window to make hay, you can fire up and go, not be a mechanic for 2 days first.

Paul

The hooks will cause trouble if worn too much. They need to be pretty smooth so they let the wire work in them. Todays wire isn't nothing to brag about either.

Rambler, Mine has a Case, air cooled 4 cyl likely the size of a VAC engine. NOT a Wisc, which are good engines also.