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Woodstoves: Jotul 602 or ?
Hey ya'll, I got an estimate on the Jotul 602 for my new cabin with installation, tax, and pipes, etc (the whole enchilada) and it was :shocked:
I would like to go new with the wood stove but haven't had any luk searching craigslist. I also need dependable (read guaranteed) installation. The indoor space is roughly 280 sf, the location is south Tennessee, the cabin is wood with insulation. I haven't seen many wood stoves for this size. Had a "sardine" in a cabin before and it is great for a very small space but also very pricey. Also looked at the wall tent stoves and not sure about them for permanent installation. Any suggestions? Thanks :) |
Take my opinion as you will, but a small stove can be very cheap or very expensive.
What are you using it for? Heat, cooking or both? At Menards, a small stove can be bought for about $400 +/- Can't remember the name, but it is a small stove, fire brick floor, glass front door. It would be more than adequate to heat the space you are talking about, but won't hold a lot of wood and not good for cooking on. On the other hand, harbor freight sells a couple of small cast iron stoves that can heat ok and be cooked on, but many people say they leak smoke at seams where they are assembled. That issue could be remedied if you know how to weld cast iron. But they are only between $100 and $200. |
I've got a harbor freight type that doesn't leak anywhere. If it leaks there is something wrong with the up draft. I would check to see of the house was sir tight. If so I don't think any stove will work properly.
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I do, however plan on getting one sometime just to use for some cooking and possibly suplimentery heat in my house. |
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Your cost should be about half of that. |
It will be used primarily for heating but would like to cook on it sometimes and definitely heat water on it. I doubt the cabin will be air tight but I have asthma and can't breathe when there is any smoke at all nearby... probably a psychological thing, not a medical thing. I've heard the same thing about the vogelzang boxwood stoves so wasn't considering them. I don't want to take the chance that it will leak. Have done a lot of searching online and haven't come up with anything in the middle of the boxwood or the pricey ones. So I thought to ask here in case someone had come up with something. Thanks.
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If you do end up with a leak, and you really shouldn't if you have a decent draft, it is very easy to fix without welding in less than 5 minutes. I'll try to post a link in a minute.
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=wood+stove++repair+cement&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#q=wood+stove++repair+cement&client=safari&rls=en&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=XiL1Uau7NpDy9gSV24C4DA&ved=0CKABELMY&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.49784469%2Cd.eWU%2Cpv.xjs.s.en_US.MpiVkF51mpA.O&fp=6491f616ff1c1c73&biw=1282&bih=615 I forget the exact name of the product I buy at the local hardware store, but they are all very similar. I used it around the stove pipes and damper to eliminate the small leaks, which only occurred when I "damper down" for the night, and even then quite minor. The stove and stove pipe were used and not "perfect". |
Would something like JB Weld work?
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I've used JB weld for many things, but in the case of the high heat, from what I've read from others who have used it, it quickly turns to ash.
Even that thick tar like stuff I use that's made for that purpose, has a seasonal lifetime. |
Itis worth the investigation to look at these a little more. The reviews mention the leaks and I know my old timey neighbors only used these in the basements, not in the house. They are good stoves and have plenty of cooking space on the top. Will keep looking and reading. Still have time :)
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It never hurts to research before you spend your money.
Last winter I learned a lot from doing it. Honestly the amount of smoke you get from opening the door to throw some wood in, is more than what a leak causes. There are trade-offs that you have to accept from burning wood, but I wouldn't go back. http://www.stovespares.co.uk/why-need-fire-rope.php |
JB Weld won't work on a stove. If I need to remove it I take the propane torch to it and it comes right off.
If you are allergic to smoke then a wood stove may not be a good idea. Even with one of the new, air tight stoves you might get a puff of smoke when you open the door. I do find that if you crack the door and wait for a 10 count before you open it that you don't get the puff. How cold does it get in TN? You probably don't need the biggest stove you can get. It is nice to have one big enough to hold a fire all night long so you don't have to climb out of a nice warm bed into freezing temps. Do look for one of the new, air tight stoves. It will burn a lot less wood for the same heat. It sounds like the Jotel and Quadra-fire are too expensive. You can do quite well with something in the mid price range. I went with a Drolet HT2000 but then I am up in the frozen wastes. You can probably get by with an Austral or Escape http://www.fleetfarm.com/search/?q=d...archSubmit.y=0. Seems the price has gone up since I bought mine (Surprise Surprise). They used to go on sale for $700. US Stove and others make good stoves too. I could cook on the top of mine but that is limited to having a hot surface to put a pan on. You should consider installing it yourself. There are many good articles on the internet about how to do it. Here's a good one http://www.motherearthnews.com/homes...#axzz2aM1V9Xez . |
We had a Jotul 602 in our little house years ago, and it was wonderful. They are very well made and worth the $$$, if installed correctly will last and last. We now have a bigger Jotul and like it a lot too, found it on craigslist used (barely) for around half price. Nice to be able to put a teakettle on top, even the 602 has room for that.
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Right now I have a Cawley LaMey cast iron stove - I've had it since the late 70s - the baffels in the upper part of the stove are all shot now and I'm planning on replaceing it with a Jotul F 600 - I use the stove to heat the rooms that I spend most of the time in - the Jotul is over 75 % efficient and doesn't have a catalytic converter in it - the other thing that I like is the size of the logs you can put into it (24'') - that way you can keep the fire lit over night - I burn about 4 or 5 cords of wood each year - from Dec thru March - the efficiency is very important to me - basically you get what you pay for - I haven't priced the Jotul yet -
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PS - there are two Jotuls on the Knoxville craigslist, and one on the Chattanooga site.
Little bigger, but you don't have to load them as often :) |
That is a small space to heat, really, so smaller is likely better. More costly, but would you consider an outside wood burner? If you plan to add buildings, one will cover more. Have you thought of a pellet/corn stove? Less worry about smoke, venting, etc.
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As far as smoke leaking from a wood stove - if the draft is correct any leak will let air into the stove and up the chimmey - smoke won't come out of the stove - when you open the door - some smoke may come out into the room if you open the door fast - open it slowly and this won't happen - I've been using a wood stove for close to 40 years - there is nothing llike it - free wood - good excerise - and nice steady heat -
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heres the stove i wanted but was unable to get one local.
http://www.morsona.com/Mors%C3%B8-1410-529.aspx |
heres the stove i was able to get local...vermont casting aspen model with a cooking eye.these new EPA stoves must have dry wood to burn correctly...not like the old foxfires etc with the big airflow adjustment to make any wood burn.plus side is you use very little wood.i heat my home on a armload of wood for a 24 hour period.
http://vermontcastings.com/family/St...talytic/Aspen/ |
p.s. all stoves and installation parts are expensive now.
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For a 280sf insulated cabin in Tennessee, I'd check out whatever Cabelas sells for tent stoves.
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one thing i bought was a cheap moisture meter and it shows you the amount of moisture in the wood.i was really shocked at moisture content of some wood i was sure was dry enough to burn efficiently in these new type stoves.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-...item460a0d2d6e |
does anyone with a Vogelzang have a comment about efficiency? i was reading they burn through a lot more wood. also cabin fever, are those tent stoves comparable to a house stove? is there something that is sacrificed for the weight and portability? the price difference between a sardine or lil cod or jotul 602 ad a litte vogelzang is too much to ignore. more to read.
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I had a Jotul 602 that I tried to use for a cabin I was living in, back in 1976. My cabin was 14 x 22 (or 308 sq. ft.) It was insulated, and I was living in Ohio (Sugar Grove, near Lancaster)...It was way too small for the job. Don't get me wrong, the stove was beautiful...very well built and I liked it when the weather was cool but not cold, however I had to sell it, and I built a stove from a stove kit using a 55 gallon drum. Also keep in mind that in 1976 and 1977 Ohio was one of those areas that had a tremendously powerful blizzard that came through and temps were record lows on many days...I now have a 24 x 28 foot cabin (with loft) that I heat with a Jotul Oslo stove. That thing is great...of course it would be too much for your small space. It's critical you find a stove that heats your space, because you don't want to keep low fires going constantly. Keep in mind, too, you need to account for the VOLUME of the space to be heated, not just the area.
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